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- Destination: 5 (and probably 30) reasons why Norway is the ultimate winter destination
In the realm of winter sports, Norway shines as an unrivaled destination, offering not just awe-inspiring landscapes, but also a steadfast commitment to sustainable tourism making itself into a winter sports haven. While the specter of climate change has cast a shadow over traditional skiing hubs like the Alps, Norway has emerged as a sanctuary for snow enthusiasts. In this discourse, we shall delve into five compelling rationales that position Norway at the zenith of your choices for your forthcoming winter sports escapade. Photo by Christiann Koepke on Unsplash 1. Breathtaking Natural Splendor and Diverse Topography Norway's panorama is a tableau of spellbinding magnificence, presenting a varied expanse of terrains that are ideal for an array of winter sports activities. From the grandeur of its fjords to the vastness of its plateaus, the nation showcases a sprawling constellation of ski resorts catering to enthusiasts of all proficiency levels. Whether you are an adrenaline aficionado in search of the thrill of downhill skiing or a nature devotee yearning for cross-country trails meandering through pristine forests, Norway stands as an epitome of choices. The sheer assortment of landscapes ensures that each winter sports devotee discovers their own niche. 2. Steadfast Snowfall Amidst the Changing Climate Among the most disconcerting byproducts of climate change is the diminishing snowfall in numerous traditional winter sports locales. Nonetheless, Norway has managed to maintain relatively consistent snow conditions owing to its northern latitude and proximity to the Arctic. While climate change remains a global concern, Norway's determination to safeguard its natural marvels and offer a remarkable experience to its visitors is palpable. Travellers can be confident that their winter sports plans will not be thwarted by the absence of snow, rendering Norway an unwavering and eco-friendly option. 3. Cutting-Edge Network of EV Charging points Norway's dedication to sustainability transcends the realm of winter sports and extends into transportation. The nation has made remarkable leaps in championing electric vehicles (EVs), boasting one of the world's most advanced charging networks. This network is not confined to urban environments; it is seamlessly woven into the fabric of the country's winter sports infrastructure. Skiers and snowboarders traversing the snowy landscapes in electric vehicles can embark on their exploration sans the apprehension of running out of battery power. This ecologically conscious approach not only curbs carbon emissions but also elevates the overall experience by affording convenience and tranquility. 4. Distinctive Après-Ski Culture and Indigenous Gastronomy Après-ski, the cherished custom of unwinding and mingling after a day on the slopes, assumes a unique character in Norway. Surrender to the snug embrace of log cabins as you savor heartwarming delicacies such as fårikål (lamb and cabbage stew) or rakfisk (fermented fish). The nation's opulent culinary heritage is bound to tantalize your taste buds, providing an ideal means to rejuvenate and connect with fellow enthusiasts. Immerse yourself in the local ethos as you unwind by the fireside, exchange anecdotes, and forge indelible recollections against the backdrop of snow-clad vistas. And bring your ‘raskebriller’! 5. Escape the European Congestion: A Revitalizing Alternative to the Alps The overcrowding witnessed in conventional winter sports destinations within the Alps has led to compromised experiences for myriad travelers. Prolonged queues, congested slopes, and limited lodging choices can detract from the delight of the sojourn. In stark contrast, Norway proffers an invigorating respite from these throngs. With its meticulously designed resorts and a focus on sustainability, you can relish expansive slopes and forge a more personal communion with nature. Norway's dedication to judicious tourism ensures an unhurried and authentic winter sports odyssey, unburdened by the overwhelming multitudes. I have taken the liberty to create a small preselection regarding the very best ski areas. Of course, there are numerous other options, but these stand out as the finest in every aspect. 3 hours of driving from Oslo Airport (OSL): Hemsedal 2,5 hours of driving from Oslo Airport (OSL): Trysil 3 hours of driving from Oslo Airport (OSL): Geilo 1,5 hours of driving from Bergen Airport (BGO): Voss 3 hours of driving from Oslo Airport (OSL): Beitostølen
- Clothes: Warmth and water repellent; the allure of Norwegian wool sweaters and 5 brands you should know about
I must confess, I'm not entirely certain whether my profound adoration for Norwegian woollen jumpers should be labelled as cultural appropriation, especially now that I'm penning an article about them. Let's simply say that it's the love for these magnificent, tradition-rich, and meticulously crafted jumpers that compelled me to write. In this modest piece, I'd like to introduce you to the five most interesting and or famous Norwegian sweater brands and the most exquisite jumpers you could or couldn't possibly imagine. If you're in search of a splendid specimen to don during your visit to Norway, do read on. But first a little introduction on this magnificent piece of kit. The Norwegian sweater, or 'lusekofte', stands as a remarkable piece of Nordic cultural heritage. Born in the 19th century among fishermen and farmers who needed protection from fierce fjord winds, these woollen garments quickly evolved into something far more significant than mere outdoor wear. Sometimes they were waxed in order to keep the wind and moist out even more. Each region developed distinct patterns that served as a woollen signature of local identity. The most celebrated design, the Marius pattern, emerged in 1953 when Unn Søiland Dale created it for Olympic skier Marius Eriksen, swiftly becoming Norway's unofficial national jumper.b Whether worn by modern adventurers or urban (Oslo) fashionistas, each Norwegian sweater continues to tell a story of resilience, tradition, and not in the least; a love for outdoor life. It's why I am wearing them all the time. There exists quite a variety of brands, from which I've chosen to highlight five. I'll also provide some tips at the end on how to acquire unique pieces whilst travelling through Norway. Let's begin, shall we? 1. Dale of Norway Dale of Norway is arguably the most renowned brand for traditional Norwegian jumpers. Established in 1879 in the village of Dale, it has become synonymous with high-quality knitwear. The brand is celebrated for its intricate patterns and use of 100% Norwegian wool. Dale jumpers are often considered heirloom pieces, designed to last for generations. What's truly fascinating is that for each Winter Olympics, a special pattern in various colours is developed. This tradition has more or less been in place since 1956 when Norwegian ski athletes chose Dale of Norway to design and create jumpers for the team. It's a marvellous tradition, and many of the older jumpers have now become genuine collector's items. Me acting a clown in my 1992 Dale of Norway sweater. It was in fact really chilly that evening, despite it being early June. I myself possess a Dale of Norway jumper from 1992 in my wardrobe. And it's not merely because it's a collector's item; I still wear it whenever it gets a little chilly in the mountains. An interesting fact is that such vintage jumpers can be worth up to 300 dollars, which corresponds to the current retail price. Isn't that splendid? A jumper that appreciates in value, rather than depreciates? Do keep that in mind when you acquire your first Dale of Norway jumper. 2. Rauma Collection Founded in 1927, Rauma Collection is known for its blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern techniques, including the use of 3D knitting technology. While slightly less recognised globally than Dale, Rauma offers a variety of wool jumpers that reflect authentic Norwegian designs and are available throughout Norway. I must admit that I don't yet own a Rauma jumper. I've often gazed at them longingly when I've chanced upon a Husfliden shop . Despite Rauma enjoying considerably less fame than Dale, for instance, one can confidently say that this company is steeped in history and tradition, having been established in 1927 when 25-year-old Erling Digernes founded Rauma Ullvarefabrikk (Rauma Wool Factory) in the small town of Veblungsnes. One of their most famous jumpers is the Marius sweater, in a beautiful combination of dark blue, bright red, and white. Designed by Unn Søiland in 1953, the Marius pattern has become the most frequently hand-knitted pattern in Norway. The jumper was named after Marius Eriksen, a war hero and actor who wore the design in a film, which significantly boosted its popularity. Today, the Marius sweater is considered a national symbol of Norway. You'll find it impossible to miss when you visit Norway. You'll see coffee cups, key rings, and even dog bodywarmers adorned with the pattern. But please, do opt for an original Marius sweater. Not all that touristy nonsense. 3. Devold of Norway With a history dating back to 1853, Devold specialises in outdoor and really quite functional knitwear. The brand is known for its durable jumpers that incorporate traditional Norwegian patterns alongside more contemporary 'interpretations'. Although their production has moved to Lithuania, their commitment to Norwegian heritage remains strong (and keeping their collection kind of affordable). Devold of Norway, founded in 1853 by Ole Andreas Devold, has a rich history in textile production. The company began in Ålesund, Norway, when Ole Andreas returned from Germany with advanced knitting equipment. In 1868, Devold moved production to Langevåg, where he built not only a factory but also one of Norway's first hydroelectric power stations. Devold's success grew alongside the first major polar expeditions of the late 19th century. The company provided warm woollen clothing for famous explorers like Fridtjof Nansen and Roald Amundsen. This association with polar expeditions helped establish Devold's reputation for quality and durability in extreme conditions. I mean, come on, they're world famous...in Norway. One of Devold's best-known jumpers is the Nordsjø sweater. It has been regarded as the original Norwegian knitted sweater for over a century. Recently redesigned to include a women's model with an oversized and feminine fit, the Nordsjø sweater continues to be one of Devold's most famous products, embodying the brand's commitment to traditional Norwegian knitwear with a modern twist. My Devold Islender sweater keeping me warm in the midst of winter And you've probably guessed it, I have one in my wardrobe. It might well be my favourite jumper of all time. Made from a very thick quality wool, and oh so comfortable. A true built-for-purpose jumper. I often wear it when I go cross-country skiing, and even last year when it was minus 20 degrees here, I needed nothing more than thick woollen underwear and my Devold Islender jumper to keep me warm during 4 hours of cross-country skiing. 4. Oleana Founded in 1992, Oleana focuses on blending contemporary aesthetics with traditional motifs, primarily targeting the women's market, but if you're a chap or somewhere in between, you'll find something to your liking here too. The brand emphasises ecologically sustainable practices and produces its garments entirely in Norway, ensuring high-quality craftsmanship. What I find wonderful about this brand is, of course, the fact that local and sustainable production is held in such high regard, but also the exuberant use of colour. It almost reminds one of the iconic Finnish brand Marimekko , but that parallel will probably not be appreciated from either side. In any case, they have a beautiful collection where knitwear takes centre stage. You needn't come here for a classic Norwegian woollen jumper, but that's precisely why this brand has earned a place in this list. 5. Skappel A newer addition to the Norwegian knitwear scene, Skappel gained popularity through social media and is known for its modern, baggy designs. The brand has shifted to using locally sourced Norwegian wool, creating stylish yet comfortable jumpers suitable for various occasions. Skappel is a Norwegian knitwear brand with a relatively recent but impactful history in the country's textile industry. The brand's story began in 2012, founded by the Skappel family, specifically Dorthe Skappel and her daughters Marthe and Maria[1]. The brand's origin can be traced back to a simple jumper that Dorthe Skappel knitted during a holiday at a friend's cabin. This jumper, which became known as the "Skappel sweater," quickly gained popularity when Dorthe's daughters wore it and were photographed in fashion magazines. The turning point came when Maria, who ran a blog at the time, posted the jumper's pattern online in response to numerous reader requests. This led to an unexpected surge in popularity, with the alpaca yarn used for the jumper selling out in stores across Norway. And in more recent times, namely during that utterly bonkers pandemic, I dare say that Skappel contributed to all of Norway taking up knitting. Indeed, I can still vividly recall the long queues at the wool shop around the corner from me in Majorstuen. The knitting needles were quite literally flying off the shelves. Jumper to conclusions And with that last point, I'd like to conclude my little article on the best brands for Norwegian sweaters. For it should be clear by now that knitwear, patterns, and knitting are a very important part of Norwegian culture. And you'll encounter it one way or another when you visit Norway. I hope it has inspired you, and do send me a photo of your acquisition in a lovely (Norwegian) setting!
- Destination: The best time to see the Northern Lights in Norway is just about now, in 2025!
Let me begin by explaining that the solar activity causing the Northern Lights follows an approximately 11-year cycle. In 2024 and early 2025, solar activity reached an absolute peak, resulting in an extraordinary abundance of Northern Lights, even at lower latitudes. And the sun currently being in a full-on rampage mode, promises high-times for Northern Lights enthousiasts. In fact, I've lost count of how many times I've observed the phenomenon from my own kitchen window over the past year (I live next to the capital Oslo). Therefore, in this article, I'd like to offer some great tips for those planning to chase the Northern Lights and why the best time to see the Northern Lights in Norway is in fact in 2025. No Guarantees: Luck is your best friend The Solar Cycle As I mentioned earlier, there's a notorious cycle at play. The peak I witnessed in 2024 will gradually diminish over the coming years. You can expect the absolute best opportunities in the early spring of 2025 within the next 11-year cycle. If you're planning to travel to Norway in the winter of 2025 to pursue the Northern Lights, I recommend heading to the far north. The further north, the better. The Weather When planning your trip to northern Norway, weather becomes a crucial consideration. Autumn and spring tend to be more turbulent compared to mid-winter. Fortunately, spring in the high north arrives fashionably late, giving you essentially until April before the first signs of spring emerge. However, as previously noted, luck remains your most important companion. It's entirely possible that cloud cover might persist throughout your entire visit. This is precisely why it's essential to plan alternative activities in case the Northern Lights prove elusive. Solar Activity The most effective method for tracking solar activity is the free My Aurora Forecast app, available for both Android and Apple . This ingenious tool alerts you when Northern Lights probability increases in your location and makes remarkably precise estimations based on cloud coverage. Chances are there when the KP index marks 3 or higher. Ensure you enable notifications! The view from my kitchen window a few weeks ago... I was asleep The greatest chance of witnessing the Northern Lights often occurs when you're least expecting it. I mean that you're likely to be engaged in another activity when these colourful curtains suddenly grace the sky. Perhaps you'll be cooking dinner, or indeed, fast asleep. Each occurrence varies naturally. Sometimes the display might last several hours, while other times it might be fleeting - mere minutes. Once again, luck plays an extraordinarily significant role. The Location: Where Should You Go? It's fundamentally important to distance yourself from excessive light pollution such as street lamps or urban illumination. To observe the sky effectively, you'll need to venture beyond city limits or seek elevated locations. Tromsø As previously mentioned, your chances improve the further north you travel. Tromsø represents an excellent choice. It's a small yet incredibly charming town. During my first visit, I was particularly struck by the openness of its northern inhabitants. In my opinion, northerners are considerably more sociable and approachable compared to their southern counterparts. The town boasts numerous delightful restaurants, bars, and coffee shops that transform your stay into a warm embrace - crucial when temperatures plummet. A minor drawback of Tromsø is its touristic nature. While I wouldn't characterise it as a tourist trap, the abundance of souvenir shops and the extensive array of Northern Lights safaris can feel somewhat overwhelming, or underwhelming if you please. However, it remains an ideal solution if you'd prefer not to rent a car. You can simply book a trip and have yourself driven to a nice and dark location for the most optimal views of the northern polar sky. A little bonfire will be lit, and you will be wearing a thermo-suit keeping you nice and warm throughout the evening. Trondheim Given that we're currently experiencing the peak of the solar cycle, Trondheim is worth considering. While Northern Lights opportunities might be slightly reduced, you'll have access to a magnificent city absolutely worth spending several days exploring. There's more than enough to occupy yourself with, which makes any potential Northern Lights absence more palatable. In fact, Trondheim is renowned as Norway's culinary capital, housing an extraordinary number of exceptional restaurants within its city limits. If I were to relocate immediately, Trondheim would be my instant destination - considerably more convivial and beautiful than Oslo. Several locations offer excellent sky views, such as Gråkallen, Korsvika, or Festningen (though the latter is only suitable during high KP index conditions). If you're seeking a unique accommodation, I warmly recommend reading my article about Stokkøya . Consider spending a few days in Trondheim itself, then completely unwind at Stokkøya. Moreover, it's extraordinarily dark there - excellent conditions for sky watching. Andøya You needn't limit yourself to cities. You could immerse yourself in Norway's extraordinary wilderness to witness the Northern Lights. Naturally, your options are endless. However, I highlight Andøya specifically because it's an exceptional location for whale watching. Between October and January, substantial numbers of whales and orcas congregate, feeding on the immense food resources in Arctic waters. Embark on a boat trip and bring your binoculars - this is genuinely a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Additionally, it's perfect for various winter activities: ice fishing, cross-country skiing, enjoying a delightful sauna, and fishing opportunities. I'd confidently assert this represents a genuine "Norway in a nutshell" experience, mercifully free from clichés! Finnmark As I've written in previous articles, I've developed a slight infatuation with Finnmark. It's Norway's most sparsely populated province, feeling genuinely like a frontier, with Russia as the next door neighbour. It's so remote that even the smallest villages possess an airfield because distances are frequently too vast to traverse conventionally. The Varanger View Cabin in Vardø would make for an excellent location to experience the beautiful Arctic. If you wish to completely immerse yourself in arctic life, I enthusiastically recommend exploring the Varanger region and consider a stay either at the Varanger Lodge or the Varanger View . It's not your typical holiday destination, but I promise you this will be an experience you'll never forget. So bloody beautiful. And, naturally, this region provides exceptional Northern Lights viewing opportunities.
- Destination: I never wanted to ever leave Fjærland; books and a gorgeous hotel
Fjærland, is a tiny little town in Sogndal (Norway). Nestled deep amidst towering mountains, it finds itself at the very end of one of the Sognefjord's long branches. The village exudes a delightful charm unique to Norway, comprising only a handful of beautiful wooden homes, a few distinguished hotels, a place of worship, and a couple of boutiques. One would never suspect, looking from the main road on the fjord's opposite side, that it is a destination worthy of an extended stay, perhaps even an unintended week-long visit. Allow me to explain the reasons why. A ton of books Fjærland is an undeniable marvel, not just because of its breathtaking natural surroundings of Sogndal , but also because this small village is a respected haven for book lovers. Despite its modest population of only 300 people, numerous books, numbering in the hundreds of thousands, grace the shelves of various shops and barns. The literary collection extends beyond Norwegian titles, offering a significant assortment of English literature. This allows one the luxury of leisurely browsing book covers, enjoying the pleasure of an afternoon's literary exploration. I myself came across an English edition of 'War and Peace,' which I acquired and enjoyed while reclining contentedly in the lush grass, delving into its opening chapters. I still haven't finished it though. A self-service bookshelf in Fjærland Along the streets, several covered bookshelves beckon passersby, allowing them to select a book on trust, with a humble 10 kroner left in the nearby mailbox. Indeed, where else does such a charming tradition persist in these modern times? A tiny but gorgeous hotel The village, reminiscent of a bygone era, appears as if it has been plucked from the enchanting realm of a 1950s postcard. Adding to its allure, the venerable Mundal Hotel, dating back to the 1800s, adds an extra touch of grandeur. Unfortunately, it is currently closed for renovations, leaving one eagerly anticipating its transformation once it reopens. However, I am delighted to recommend to book a few nights at the Fjærland Fjordstove Hotel , which I think is a boutique hotel of utmost charm. Its exquisite rooms and the culinary expertise of its esteemed chef ensure a highly gratifying experience. The communal area, resembling a cozy living room, offers a welcoming refuge, a true haven for relaxation. The mesmerizing view of the cerulean fjord waters proves endlessly captivating, especially when a group of five dolphins gracefully glides past, leaving one in a state of wonderment. For those with limited financial resources, fear not, for Fjærland still provides the opportunity to enjoy a delightful vacation. Just beyond the village lies a charming campsite called Bøyum Camping , with ample space for tents and caravans. But, they also offer the rental of modest trekking cabins. If luxury is not a top priority, these accommodations will more than suffice. I myself had a thoroughly enjoyable two-night stay. Natural wonders Also in Fjærland: the Glacier Museum . This museum is a private foundation established by Den Norske Turistforening, International Glaciological Society, Norges vassdrags- og energidirektoratet, Norsk Polarinstitutt, Høgskulen i Sogn og Fjordane, University of Bergen, and University of Oslo in 1989. The purpose of the Norsk Bremuseum is to gather, create, and disseminate knowledge about glaciers and the climate. The foundation's activities span the fields of natural science and cultural history. The Glacier Museum illustrates the workings of nature and the interaction between nature and humanity through advanced film techniques, interactive models, and your own experiments with real glacier ice. The Norsk Bremuseum is designed for the inquisitive mind, definitely! Not least of all, Fjærland is a kind of mecca for outdoor enthusiasts. Kayaking, skiing, and guided walks to the glacier are all part of the possibilities. Take a look at Fjærland Guiding and let yourself be enticed. I never wanted to leave My earnest suggestion is to embrace the unhurried pace of life in Fjærland, staying until your heartbeat achieves a state of absolute tranquility. The village's allure stems not only from its enchanting atmosphere but also from the enigmatic wonders of nature that captivate from every angle. Dedicate a day to exploring the outskirts of the surrounding glaciers under the guidance of a knowledgeable guide. And be sure to reserve a few precious hours for indulging in the ' Dampen ' , the floating sauna. The view it offers is truly extraordinary, and it is both a personal obligation and a gesture of respect to the locals to take an invigorating plunge into the icy fjord waters at least once. There is no better moment to savor this experience than when you can retreat to the comforting warmth of the sauna afterward. Fjærland, with all its resplendent charm, embodies the essence of a small-scale fairytale, providing an unparalleled sanctuary for the discerning traveler. I, for one, long to return. Tomorrow preferrably! **Getting to Sogndal: it is most likely you'll arrive at Oslo Airport (OSL). Public transport really takes forever to get you there and isn't all that flexible in these remote areas, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Hike: Four seasons in a day: a packing list for an outdoorsy (summer) holiday in Norway
Planning a journey to Norway can be somewhat overwhelming, especially when you intend to spend ample time camping. Hence, I thought it appropriate to share my Norway packing list with all the essentials when preparing my 70L backpack for an extended trek through the wilderness. Naturally, this list isn't exclusively for backpackers. If you’re embarking on an adventure with your camper van and plan to enjoy the great outdoors, it’s highly advisable to bring along many of the items below. As you may already know, Norway is a land of remarkable diversity, offering a wide range of conditions. There's a saying that you can experience four seasons in one day here, and there's a lot of truth to it. From the picturesque, sunny southern coast, you can drive within a few hours to the high plains of the Hardangervidda, where the temperature can drop by 15 degrees and you might still spot patches of snow. You might start your day having breakfast in a t-shirt and end it in a woollen jumper, enjoying a beer outside your camper while gazing at the peaks of Jotunheimen. A small break... Thus, this packing list is suitable whether you're going camping or planning a road trip with your car or camper, including several day hikes to Trolltunga or Preikestolen or whatever other obscure plans you might have: Waterproof jacket and trousers Lightweight windbreaker and hiking trousers with moisture-wicking properties Woolen or blended underwear Woolen socks with a snug fit and preferrably an extra pair Woolen sweater or jacket, or a lightweight down jacket Lightweight tent (I always bring one, even if I'm staying in cabins, to ensure shelter in case of unexpected weather changes) A thin mattress or underlay to separate you from cold surfaces Woolen mittens or gloves that retain warmth when wet Lightweight sneakers (useful if your hiking boots get wet) Well-worn (!!!) hiking boots to prevent blisters Shorts and t-shirt made of wool or synthetic fibres for warmer weather A thermos flask, both for your morning coffee and to keep river water cool during warm days Backpack with suitable volume Waterproof bags for food and clothes (optional rain cover) Sleeping bag when camping. Temperatures can drop at high altitudes, even in midsummer. Better too warm then too cold. Power banks for charging devices First aid kit with blister plasters and sports tape Minimal toiletries and a small/lightweight towel (preferably biodegradable toothpaste) Toilet paper and an extra garbage bag (there are no rubbish bins in the wilderness, and leaving trash is absolutely unacceptable) Sunglasses and factor 50 sunscreen Insect repellent/mosquito net Map, compass, and waterproof map case, or GPS device Multitool and duct tape Matches/lighter Propane burner for cooking A simple kettle to boil water A cup or bowl for diners and breakfast Compact headlamp /flashlight Cash/debit card DNT key and digital membership card (if you plan to stay in DNT cabins) Provisions! It's better to have too many than too few! As I mentioned earlier, this list serves as an indication of essential items. Naturally, the type of trip you undertake will ultimately determine what you pack. Nevertheless, I hope I have been able to assist you to some extent. Should you have any questions, please feel free to send me a message via Instagram .
- Destination: Coolcation in Norway: a sustainable destination in the age of climate change
Heatwaves, temperature records, and forest fires are causing the traditional southern summer holiday destinations of the average European to lose their allure. The temperature and climate of the northern regions have compelled Norway to experience a surge in popularity in recent years. Many holidaymakers seek relief here and celebrate a 'coolcation', as the climate in Norway remains somewhat milder from May until September compared to everything southern. The midnight sun in Porsanger Ironically, we have only ourselves to blame for these rising temperatures. In fact, we must cease flying, eating meat, and significantly reduce our general consumption if we want to slow all of that down. But we still want to celebrate holidays. So, if you are seeking refuge from the Southern European heat and wish to enjoy a coolcation in Norway with a low carbon footprint, this article is for you. By the end of this article, you will know about: Transport: How to minimise your CO2 emissions while travelling through Norway. Accommodation: Which hotels are particularly committed to reducing their environmental footprint. Food and Drink: Some excellent tips for sustainable and affordable food Transport Electric Vehicles (EVs) Norway boasts the highest density of charging stations globally, with four out of five newly sold cars being EVs. This makes Norway an ideal destination for a holiday or road trip in an electric vehicle. At the time of writing, the exchange rate of the krone is exceptionally low, meaning that hiring an EV need not be a significant expense. Furthermore, petrol prices in Norway are higher than ever, at approximately 24 NOK per litre (around 2.20 euros). However, we are discussing the climate here, so let the price not be an incentive. The point I am trying to convey is that there is virtually no reason to rent a petrol car in Norway. The density of charging stations and the overall charging infrastructure is excellent. If you plan to explore Norway by electric car, please read this article I wrote earlier. Be sure to reserve your car in advance, as the popularity of rental EVs is increasing, and you might miss out during the peak season. Trains Norway’s rail network is excellent, particularly given the incredibly complex geography. The major cities are easily accessible by train. If you plan to visit Oslo, Stavanger, Bergen, Trondheim, or Bodø, the (night) train offers an excellent alternative. Indeed, the Bergen Line and the Dovre Line are frequently listed among the world's most beautiful train journeys. If you are travelling from mainland Europe, you have several options to consider. I have travelled between Norway and the Netherlands entirely by train dozens of times. It takes some time, but it is entirely feasible. From Hamburg, there is a direct train to Copenhagen, and from Copenhagen, you can cross to Malmö, from where you can take a direct train to Oslo. Another option is to travel by train to Hirtshals and then take a ferry to Kristiansand. Kristiansand serves as a departure point to both Stavanger and Oslo. You can plan the details of your train holiday here . Did you know you can reach Arctic Norway entirely by train? Indeed! You can reach Narvik via Sweden, which is an excellent starting point to see both the midnight sun and the northern lights without ever stepping on a plane. Buses As previously mentioned, Norway’s geography presents an infrastructural challenge. Therefore, you will occasionally need to rely on buses to reach the most beautiful places. As a frequent bus traveller, I can confidently say that the key and most scenic locations are excellently accessible by bus. Additionally, it is easy to reserve a seat, most buses offer Wi-Fi, and the drivers are extremely friendly and helpful. You can plan your entire bus trip via here . Occasionally, you may be directed to specific carriers for reservations. Accommodation The most sustainable option is, of course, camping, and Norway is very well-suited for it. Indeed, Norway adheres to the "allemannsretten," which grants you the right to camp almost anywhere under certain conditions. If you are interested, please read this article . When (wild) camping, ensure you leave the site better than you found it. If you see litter, pick it up and dispose of it properly when you find a bin. Also, familiarise yourself with local regulations. If camping is not your preference, several hotels and destinations go the extra mile to minimise their negative impact on the tourism industry or even make a positive contribution. The Sustainable Destination label is the Nordic region’s sole national certification scheme for travel destinations prioritising sustainability. It serves as a tool for destinations committed to systematically enhancing their sustainability in terms of the environment, local communities, cultural heritage, and the economy. While the label does not signify that a destination is entirely sustainable, it indicates that the destination has commenced a long-term journey towards sustainability. Destinations undergo evaluation every three years. I have personally selected a number of hotels that, based on my own experience, are making an exceptional effort to positively contribute to the (local) environment. Stokkøya Strandhotell : This fantastic beach hotel left a lasting impression on me. At breakfast, a chalkboard message reads, "Take what you want, but eat what you take." This ethos pervades the hotel, which uses almost exclusively local products and encourages mindful consumption of electricity and water. 292 Aurland : This gem of a boutique hotel is located in the shadow of Flåm, one of the most tourist-heavy spots due to the large number of cruise ships docking there. While cruise ships are notorious for their environmental impact, 292 Aurland is the exact opposite, with a strong focus on sustainability. The food, location, garden, rooms, and staff all exude honesty. Many ingredients are self-produced, and the hotel’s 2014 renovation was undertaken with sustainability in mind. Juvet Landscape Hotel : This hotel has become something of an icon, having featured in films such as Ex Machina. It exemplifies how tourism can positively impact the environment. The architecture minimally disrupts the surroundings, and the materials used are largely locally sourced. The hotel’s energy consumption is remarkably low, making it a guilt-free retreat. Energihotellet : This hotel deserves a spot on this list for its clever use of existing structures, giving the hotel a new lease of life with minimal alterations. The rooms are minimally furnished, and the original 1960s furniture takes centre stage in common areas. Meals are prepared exclusively with local products, and breakfast is served in such a way that nothing goes to waste. Hotel Svart : Although not yet open, this spectacular hotel is slated for completion in 2024, potentially making it available by the time you read this. With its high James Bond appeal, this energy-positive, CO2-neutral, and off-grid hotel will set a new standard. Dining here will be completely waste-free, and I eagerly await the opportunity to experience this unique hotel above the Arctic Circle. Food and Drink Save foods from a sudden demise Here are some golden, or rather green, tips to minimise waste. Let's start with food. If you are travelling in a campervan, I recommend doing some of your shopping at Holdbart , a chain that buys up nearing-expiry food items. Not only can you shop economically, but you also help reduce food waste. Most supermarkets have a section with products nearing their sell-by date to minimise waste, so be sure to check it out. Buy locally produced goods A significant source of CO2 emissions is global transport. Bananas from Costa Rica, dates from Tunisia, and orange juice from Brazil all contribute to this. Hence, I am a big advocate of buying locally produced goods and foods. Hanen , an umbrella organisation for food-producing farmers, agritourism and unique restaurants, is fantastic for exactly that. They maintain a handy map highlighting where to stop for excellent local produce, from apple cider and sausages to superb bread. When you see the Hanen logo, it almost always signifies a worthwhile stop. I recommend downloading the Hanen app before your trip. Many farms also offer accommodation, making it a treasure trove few tourists are aware of. Additionally, several supermarkets, particularly Spar , often have a splendid selection of locally produced items. A good habit is to check the label: is it from Norway?
- 15 Rather Special Food Destinations in Norway That Few Know About and Are Worth a Detour if you're visiting in 2025
Before I present you this rather magnificent list of food destinations in Norway for you to visit in 2025, I'd like to immediately dispel the notion that I will NOT only be mentioning restaurants with one or more Michelin stars dangling from the facade. The aim of this article is to articulate my enthusiasm for the creativity and diversity of the Norwegian food scene, which is expressed in an incredibly varied manner. The brilliant Bekkjarvik Gjestgiveri. Photo by redcharlie on Unsplash Certainly, a few Michelin restaurants will be mentioned, but I'll also tell you where to find the most delectable cinnamon bun, fish soup, or pizza. In short, this is a treasure trove of splendid insider tips that will elevate your stay in Norway to a higher plane. The primary criterion I used is the certainty that the chance of discovering one of these places by accident is absolutely minimal. To make it easier for you, I've added a link to TripAdvisor for each of the 15 destinations, allowing you to easily compile a food destination list for your visit to Norway and potentially save them in your Google Maps. Let's begin! One of Norway's Finest Restaurants: Mirabelle on Austevoll I dare say you've never heard of Austevoll. It's a small municipality consisting of a group of islands more or less off the coast of Bergen. Here, fishing has been the primary means of livelihood for ages. Not only is the coastal landscape stunningly beautiful, but a marvellous restaurant has recently opened its doors. Restaurant Mirabelle is the brainchild of top chef Ørjan Johannessen, winner of numerous prestigious awards. This well-kept secret among Norwegians promises a sequence of beautifully presented haute-cuisine dishes. It may be too early to say, but it could well become a world-renowned restaurant. But you didn't hear that from me. Crab in Pepper Sauce at Sjøbua in Sponvika This tiny neighbourhood restaurant is practically glued to the Swedish border. Now, you shouldn't expect lofty gastronomy at Sjøbua . But if you're travelling from Sweden to Norway and the weather is pleasant, I can heartily recommend this picturesque spot, particularly for their crab in Asian pepper sauce. Good heavens, it was delicious. Moreover, it's a rather unlikely place where tourists would never end up. The terrace is right by the water front, and in the summer months, there's a constant coming and going of pleasure yachts. Quite charming! Freshly Baked While You Wait: The Most Delicious Buns in the Heart of Telemark I try to explain to everyone that Telemark is a somewhat mysterious and underappreciated province. The nature is breathtaking, and it's full of hidden gems that make you wonder how they can possibly exist. Take Mjonøy , for instance. I won't give too much away by describing the location. Simply put, during the warmer months, they continuously bake wonderful breads, buns, and pastries, which are sold while still warm. I ate the best cinnamon bun ever here, and their breads are exquisite. And then there's the fairy-tale location! Alongside a river, in the middle of the woods... The Most Delicious Fish Soup in the Far North While hordes of people trample the hiking trails of Lofoten, you'll find a remarkable island called Senja just north of that world-famous archipelago. Not only is the natural beauty here breathtaking, but you'll also find a fish restaurant with a concise menu. Picture this: it's a sun-drenched day, and because it's high summer, the sun doesn't really set, so you have all the time in the world. After a long day in the great outdoors, you stroll across a snow-white sandy beach towards the Fat Cod restaurant, where you can enjoy the most delicious fish soup on the terrace, while you could practically catch that same fish from where you're sitting. For Senja boasts the best fishing waters in the world. Not only is the location, an old fish factory, captivating, but the Swedes who run the place are also in excellent spirits. Gastronomy Below Sea Level: Dining on the Seabed In the far south of Norway, you'll find a rather legendary restaurant on the seabed: Under . Since its opening, it has become a destination in itself, putting the somewhat insignificant coastal village of Spangereid on the international map. This once-in-a-lifetime culinary destination promises a culinary journey through all the goodness the sea has to offer. They've managed to secure a Michelin star, which means you'll need to book even earlier to secure a table. But even if you're in the area, it's worth visiting outside restaurant hours to just check out the building itself. It's an architectural marvel of engineering. Trondheim in Its Entirety Do please go to Trondheim . For the concentration of excellent restaurants is highest here. Especially if you're considering a city trip, leave Oslo be and opt for a less obvious, but much cosier and more convivial city. Consider booking a table at Fagn or Tollbua . If you want to do some real culinary groundwork, you might want to consider Speilsalen . The Best Beef Tartare in Oslo (After Geita) at Bukken Wine Bar Do you like rap? Perhaps 2Pac? Or Method Man? The undersigned grew up in the 90s and 00s and has a soft spot for a few bars of gangster rap. The chef who is the driving force behind the fantastic restaurant Geita can appreciate it too and has continued his triumphal march through the Oslo food-scene by opening a wonderful wine bar called Bukken . The joke with a wine bar is that you come to drink wine and possibly order a few small dishes to avoid getting tipsy too quickly. I ordered the entire menu... that was a bit too much, but it was mainly because I wanted to taste everything. It was truly all exquisite. Particularly a dark green ceviche and an insanely delicious beef tartare. And yes, the beef tartare at Geita with black umami-like jelly, the grown-up mothership restaurant owned by the same chef, is also quite legendary. Forget Trolltunga, You're Coming to Odda to Dine at Buer In the middle of a valley, between green mountain ridges, glaciers, and a wild-flowing river, the improbable fact impresses upon you that a Michelin-starred restaurant is located here. I haven't checked the figures, but I guess this might be one of the more remote Michelin restaurants. In any case, it's far from any city. Odda is the nearest town, a somewhat peculiar place with a few smoking chimneys, a Ford Focus RS rally car as a taxi , and quite a number of brightly coloured houses built in the 1950s. As such, it's all the more extraordinary that Buer restaurant has established itself here, or close to Odda at least. Beautifully presented dishes in the spirit of New Nordic cuisine make your dinner a special occasion. The ingredients used are without exception Norwegian and more often than not local and based on the current season. What I appreciated about this place is how relaxed it is. It doesn't matter much whether you're wearing a blazer or have just come down the mountain in your hiking clothes. Everyone is welcome. And then there is that fantastic scenery of wild-flowing rivers, an imposing glacier, and green fields. At the Foot of Rondane: A Shop Full of Delicacies that Make Your Mouth Water When you're on your way from Oslo to Trondheim or vice versa, I can heartily recommend making a short stop in Ringebu. Here you'll find Annis Pølsemakeri . They specialise particularly in sausages and other meat products, but the shop is full of numerous (Norwegian) delicacies. This is an excellent place to stock up for a cheese platter, a barbecue, and whatnot. All products come from the area and are absolutely delish. I came here for the first time last summer when I was driving out of Rondane and was completely surprised! You can also treat yourself to an excellent lunch at the adjacent small restaurant. Local Fish Delicacies by the Roadside When you're on your way from Oslo to the imposing mountains of Jotunheimen, you'll drive along an elongated lake. This lake is called Sperillen. The water is of excellent quality and is full of trout, pike, perch and char. The wonder is that along the main road by the lake, there's a small shop called Villfisken selling wonderful delicacies. Of course, the fish products are particularly worth stopping for, but the jams, cheeses, dried herb blends, and mushroom products are of excellent quality. It has become a regular stop for me when I drive from Oslo to Fagernes. The Taste of the West Coast, on a Beautiful Island close to Ålesund Ålesund is a beautiful town on the west side of the spectacular fjord landscape. Not only will you find a noteworthy number of beautiful hotels here, but you can also eat fantastically. But what few visitors to the beautiful Art Nouveau city know is that restaurant Kami Skotholmen is a wonderful surprise for anyone who sets foot here. Especially if you want to surprise your loved one, I can't think of a better opportunity. If you indicate this in advance, you can be picked up by speedboat in Ålesund. This way, you reach the restaurant, beautifully located on an island off within 40 minutes of sailing. Kami Skotholmen is an acclaimed restaurant on a small island near Ålesund, Norway. It's known for its unique dining experience and high-quality seafood. The restaurant serves fresh, local fish in a Scandinavian style with Asian influences, beautifully presented. The atmosphere is laid-back, and the service is truly excellent. Perfect for a date night, or for a group of friends. It's somewhat on the expensive side, but believe me, it's worth every krone. If only for the exclusive location. Always Fully Booked, and Thus the Best Restaurant in Helgeland? If you browse this blog occasionally, you'll know by now that I've fallen a bit in love with Helgeland. This illustrious coastal area, with its unique flora and fauna and spectacular landscape, is a serene antidote to the tourist-flooded Lofoten. If you're planning a trip to Norway, I'd like to heartily recommend considering this area. Moreover, you can eat wonderfully here. Restaurant Svang is a hidden gem in a tiny place you've probably never heard of: Brønnøysund. Although it has been inhabited since the Stone Age, it never became more than a small trading post. But anyway, back to Svang. It's not easy to secure a table, and that's undoubtedly due to the excellent fish dishes served there and the North Norwegian flair with which they're presented and served. Not yet convinced to set course for Brønnøysund? Then read my article about the Vega Islands and the Helgeland coast . The Best (and only) Restaurant at the End of the World Finnmark is an illustrious region. In winter, the sun doesn't rise, while in summer it doesn't set. These extremes and the sparsely populated landscape have had their effect on the population of this province. I have a soft spot for the people in the far north. They are open, cordial, and always up for a chat. Moreover, the natural beauty of this region is breathtaking. If you're here, skip the North Cape, but drive via one of the national scenic routes towards Havøysund. In this tiny place, where the roughly 900 residents mainly depend on fishing, stands a fantastic restaurant: Havets Smak . I dare say this is the best restaurant in Finnmark. And the fact that this very restaurant is in Havøysund is a wonder in itself. They serve all kinds of dishes with purely local ingredients. Of course, fish is on the menu, as fresh as you can get it. It's virtually impossible to dine more northerly than this! Farm Shops: Food Treasures by the Roadside When you see the sign of a brown rooster on the side of the road, it's almost without exception worth taking the turn and seeing what's being sold. Are you in Hardanger? Then there's a good chance you can buy wonderful apple juice or apple cider. More inland? Then you have a chance of getting a taste of great bread, pastries, meat, or cheese products. And so it goes on. That's why I'd like to heartily recommend keeping an eye on this map during your journey through Norway, as well as the brown signs along the road with the logo of a rooster. For there's nothing better than being able to buy directly from the farmer. Because farmers have had a damned hard time in the last few decades, and that needs to change. The Hanen logo as found on road signs Southern Charm: A Small Island in Sørlandet That Only Locals Know About Whether this is a foodie destination, I'll leave up to you. But sometimes it's also about the context to make something ordinary into an experience. In short: go to Sandøya when you're in Sørlandet. Not just because of Linn's sausage-makery, but also because of many other things. Brød og Vind is an absolute must. In the summer, the most delicious bread in all of Sørlandet is baked here. Do also visit restaurant Basthaven. The amount of idyll is almost incomprehensible. In fact, Sandøya is one of those places you can hardly believe exists, and with a bit of bad luck, you'll never want to leave. If you decide to go here, I can recommend a few excellent places to stay.
- Clothes: the best winter boots to wear while visiting snowy Norway; My own favourite and what the Norwegians Wear
If you're contemplating a visit to Norway between October and April to see the Northern Lights or for any other obscure reasons, you'll likely encounter significant snowfall and when venturing further north, temperatures plummeting far below zero. Celsius that is. Consequently, appropriate footwear is rather essential. In this article, I'll present you the best snow boots you could or should consider putting on your feet during the cold months in Norway. And I base that on what is popular amongst Norwegians. So, for those planning a winter-wonder expedition to Norway, this article is for you. Kamik: My Personal Choice 3 winters ago I treated myself to a pair of tall Kamik boots, the Alborg ones . And I have to admit that the first reason for my purchase was the price. They're very affordable, yet excellent in quality compared to the other brands mentioned in this article. The thick rubber soles provide excellent grip, and the felt lining ensures my feet remain wonderfully warm. A useful tip: I deliberately purchased them a size larger. This might sound peculiar, but I adore wearing woollen socks. On the coldest days, I'll even layer two pairs. This is particularly crucial when spending an entire day outdoors in temperatures as low as -15 degrees. About Kamik Kamik is a Canadian footwear company with a storied legacy of producing winter boots designed to withstand brutal cold conditions. Established in 1898 in Montreal, Quebec, this family-owned business has specialised in creating boots capable of enduring extreme Canadian winters. Why would one buy a pair of Kamik snow boots? Cold Weather Performance: Engineered to perform in temperatures as low as -40°C, these boots utilise specialised insulation materials that maintain foot warmth in extremely harsh conditions. And that's what you want when you're out all night watching the Northern Lights. Waterproof Construction: Crafted from waterproof rubber and synthetic fabrics, they ensure my feet to remain dry in snow, slush, and wet environments. Sustainable Manufacturing: Recent years have seen Kamik develop a strong commitment to sustainability, with many boots made from recyclable materials and initiatives to reduce their environmental impact. Although it might not be your first priority, it maybe should be. Affordability: As I mentioned, I bought them for their price/quality ratio. Kamik is offering high-quality winter footwear at an accessible price point. At $112 they're not exactly expensive. Helly Hansen: A Norwegian outdoor icon according to... Norwegians Want to blend in? It won't take long until you see someone with a pair of Helly Hansen boots or a Helly Hansen raincoat. And that's for good reason. Because Helly Hansen is a somewhat of a household name in Norwegian outdoor culture. Not only does the brand embody a certain national pride, but it's also one of the finest manufacturers of boots that keep you warm and dry during winter. If you're planning a winter journey to Norway, a pair of Helly Hansen snow boots is certainly worth considering. About Helly Hansen A renowned Norwegian outdoor clothing and gear company with a rich maritime heritage, Helly Hansen was founded in 1877 by sea captain Helly Juell Hansen. 'Aye!'. Originally creating waterproof clothing for sailors and fishermen in harsh marine environments, the company has evolved into a global brand known for high-performance outdoor and winter wear. Key attributes of Helly Hansen boots include: Advanced Weather Protection: Leveraging their maritime roots, these boots employ cutting-edge waterproofing technologies to keep feet dry and warm in extreme conditions. It is the go-to brand for fishermen too. Superior Insulation: Incorporating high-performance technologies like PrimaLoft®, they provide exceptional warmth without unnecessary bulk. Professional-Grade Quality: With origins in outfitting maritime professionals, Helly Hansen brings an industrial-strength approach to footwear... and their jackets! Innovative Traction Systems: In simple words; reducing slipping and sliding to a minimum. Sorel: Another Canadian Favourite Sorel is another Canadian brand ubiquitous in the Norwegian streetscape and known for excellent and rahter stylish winter boots. Take a quick look around in Oslo on a rainy or snowy day and you'll understand what I am talking about. Founded in 1962 in Ontario, they specialise in high-quality winter boots designed for extreme conditions, pioneering a unique boot design combining rubber bottoms with leather uppers. Sorel's snow boots could be considered because of: Cold Weather Expertise: Engineered for temperatures as low as -40°C with a genuine understanding of winter footwear functionality. These types of temperatures are rare in Norway, but better be prepared. Legendary Waterproof Construction: Pioneering seam-sealed, waterproof designs that create an impenetrable barrier against moisture. Exceptional Insulation: Using advanced materials like felt and microfleece, with practical removable liners. Durability: Built to last, using premium materials and reinforced construction. And they do last. The proof is my set of rain boots that I have owned for almost 10 years. Style Meets Function: Blending performance with fashion, appealing to both outdoor enthusiasts and style-conscious consumers. UGG: From Schoolyard Trend to Fashion Staple I remember a progressive girl during my highschool period returning to school after summer holidays wearing UGGs, which initially provoked some giggles. However, her foresight must now be acknowledged. UGG is now a ubiquitous brand, particularly popular in urban areas around Oslo – though more as a fashion statement than serious winter footwear. So if you're planning on hitting Oslo's more expensive shopping alley's in particular, you might want to consider some of these style icons. And they're incredibly popular around here. About UGG Founded by Australian surfer Brian Smith in 1978, UGG began by introducing Australian sheepskin boots to the American market. While not traditional snow boots, they offer (some) winter-friendly qualities: Superior Insulation: Natural sheepskin provides excellent thermal regulation. Comfortable Materials: Soft, wool-lined interior that moulds to the foot. Versatile Des... No, a really cool Design: Fashionable and adaptable across settings. Lightweight Construction: Easy to wear for extended periods. Water-Resistant Properties: Offering some protection in light snow. But slush and rain are the enemy.
- Stay: not for pensionists; an exclusive stay on the foot of Gaustatoppen
Rjukan is somewhat of an enigmatic location. Internationally, it is perhaps best known for its association with World War II and the heavy water factory operated by the Germans (don't mention the war!). More recently, Rjukan has garnered attention due to the installation of a sun mirror. Rjukan is nestled in a valley where, during winter, the sun is absent for approximately four months, leaving the valley shrouded in perpetual twilight. A rather disheartening state of affairs leaving housing prices to be unusually low for country standards. To address this, a large mirror has been erected on one of the surrounding mountain ridges, capturing the meager sunlight during these dark months and reflecting it directly into the valley, offering the residents at least a semblance of light. A hard-to-imagine hotel on the foot of a mountain However, it is not for this reason alone that I write about Rjukan. During the second summer of the pandemic, my love and I embarked on a holiday in Norway. It was then that I received the summons to receive my first vaccine dose while we were camping by a lake. Determined to comply, we embarked on a 400-kilometer journey back to Oslo, only to resume our vacation the following morning. Our budget was rather constrained, but we decided that sleeping in a tent or hammock that night was out of the question. Gaustatoppen! Photo by Lieve Ransijn on Unsplash Serendipitously, we stumbled upon a small hotel marked on the map, conveniently located along our route. And so it was that we found ourselves in the vicinity of Rjukan. Little did I anticipate what an extraordinary experience awaited us. Tuddal Høyfjellshotell is nestled in the mountains, overlooking a vast lake just below the treeline. Constructed in a charming chalet style, the hotel has been welcoming guests since 1895, and this legacy is immediately apparent upon entering. It is a scene straight out of a fairy tale. The interior is delightfully old-fashioned yet exudes an authentic ambiance. It feels as though stepping into a time capsule, with decorations, vintage photographs, and hunting trophies adorning every nook and cranny. Each evening, a four-course dinner is served promptly at 19:00, bringing all the guests together in the dining hall simultaneously. This creates a uniquely special atmosphere. One can take a moment to observe their fellow patrons and gain a sense of the community within the hotel. The service is truly remarkable, infused with enthusiasm and dedication. You feel genuinely seen and valued. The cuisine revolves around locally available ingredients, and this is unmistakable in the flavors that are brought to life. Expect no experimental artistry, but rather beautifully executed, honest dishes that tantalize the taste buds. One feels as though they have stepped into a movie scene. Perhaps akin to "The Grand Budapest Hotel," but set in Norway? Following dinner, we ordered coffee in one of the sitting rooms and were soon joined by other guests. The evening unfolded into a delightful late-night affair, with whisky flowing abundantly. One might perceive this place as catering primarily to pensioners, but I hold the opposite view being somewhere in my thirties. Those standardized and generic hotels truly contribute nothing to the overall experience of a destination. Tuddal Høyfjellshotell, on the other hand, is an entity in itself—a destination actually. If you find yourself in the vicinity and planning to stay in Telemark, Rjukan or Gaustatoppen, or even if you are not, I implore you to book a night's stay . with a strong promise you will not regret it. And by the way, the accommodations themselves are truly remarkable, despite the fact that we had our stay in the smallest, most rudimentary chamber available. We loved it. All of it. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Oslo Airport (OSL). Public transport doesn't get you there, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Destination: Mirabelle restaurant and a boutique hotel in a storm-weathered paradise; a two-night escape to Austevoll
The reason I felt compelled to write a little something about Austevoll (Norway) is not coincidental. I first visited the group of island a long time ago and became a little enamoured with the rugged vibe of this illustrious part of the Norwegian west coast. As the coat-of-arms of the area suggests, it's all about fishing here. And it has been for a long time. Crab traps are stacked against the wooden boathouses, and here and there, a massive fishing trawler is moored. The allure of this area is the spectacular landscape. You can kayak, fish, hike, and cycle. That might sound like the island is only populated by people in their fifties and older, but the opposite is true. It buzzes with activity in the summer. Especially in Bekkjarvik, pleasure yachts dock frequently, creating a very lively atmosphere. A stunning boutique hotel Most tourists can't tear themselves away from the urban life of Bergen. Understandably so. This makes Austevoll and Bekkjarvik, in particular, popular among Norwegians themselves. And they undoubtedly want to keep it that way. But it's too late now. Because not too long ago, a stunning boutique hotel opened here; Beckerwyc House . The name is derived from an old English sea chart where Bekkjarvik is presumably translated to 'Beckerwyc.' Bekkjarvik Harbour. Photo by Rune Haugseng on Unsplash The rooms are incredibly stylish and often have views of the picturesque coastal landscape. When you have a cup of coffee in the lounge, you might think you're in a modern Italian apartment in Milan. But no, you find yourself in a coastal village with just over 500 inhabitants. You'll be slightly confused again in the morning when your breakfast is served in your room. Big city luxury...in a Norwegian fishing village. A Michelin-worthy storm To elevate the whole experience on Austevoll in the evening; award-winning chef Ørjan Johannessen cooks up a Michelin-worthy storm at the Mirabelle restaurant . I don't think I'm exaggerating when I say that the Mirabelle restaurant alone is worth traveling to Bekkjarvik for. The culinary journey one is boarding, is of a worldly quality based on the local riches fished up from the sea. My prediction is that it won't be long before Beckerwyc House, restaurant Mirabelle and Austevoll become a destination in itself because they have that potential. And it's up to you to beat the crowds long ahead. When on Austevoll, do not forget to visit Bekkjarvik Gjestgiveri , the boat and kayak rental and the Marstein Lighthouse .
- Destination: animals; wildlife in Arctic Norway
During the summer of 2023, we found ourselves without any definite vacation plans. I had already spent all my funds on not-so-fun-family-related trips to the Netherlands, and the prospect of going somewhere didn't particularly appeal to us. That is, until an unfortunate twist of fate led a friendly couple to leave their car stranded in Kristiansand. With time on our hands, we decided to seize the opportunity and deliver the car to the far reaches of North-East Finnmark. The quickest route would take around 22 hours, spanning over 2200 kilometers. Nevertheless, the fastest route doesn't always offer the most scenic journey, and opportunities to explore the extreme north don't come around often. Thus, we chose to veer off course near Kiruna, directing our path towards Narvik, and then meandering further into the North-Eastern reaches of Finnmark. It turned to be a journey spanning approximately 3600km. Heading for Havøysund Along our expedition, we stumbled upon what I believe to be one of North Norway's best-kept secrets: the tourist route from Russelv to Havøysund . Its allure lies chiefly in the indescribable landscape and the abundance of (wild) creatures encountered along the way. Within a mere 5 hours, we crossed paths with three moose, several sizable reindeer herds, a group of dolphins, a couple of reindeer carcasses, and, of course, sheep. We located a camping spot a kilometer from Lillefjord, a tiny settlement nestled in a bend along the road to Havøysund. Although it was late, the midnight sun ensured that daylight persisted. After a meal, an intriguing 'spouting' sound caught my attention. My initial thought was perhaps a seal. I hurried towards the coast to investigate, discovering before long the source of the sound: about six dolphins. I called out to my partner, and with admiration, we observed the dolphins leisurely swimming deeper into the bay. Shortly thereafter, something absurd unfolded. A small flock of sheep grazed near the shore. While not an uncommon sight, as the entire region is dotted with grazing sheep, somehow this particular flock managed to capture the attention of the dolphin troupe, which had drawn closer to the coastline. Whether intentional or not, I cannot say, but the dolphins commenced a frenzy of jumping and diving, successfully startling the sheep into a panicked run. Laughter echoed as the flock took off. Luckily, I managed to capture the comical spectacle on film and submitted it to the Norwegian state broadcaster NRK. They found it equally amusing and featured it on their website . The vast biodiversity and unspoiled nature in the northern reaches of the country prompted contemplation. As we strolled along the water's edge, I couldn't help but notice the copious amount of marine debris washing ashore. Much of this waste originates from the fishing industry, including buoys, fragments of fishing nets, styrofoam, aerosol cans, and shampoo bottles. Given the absence of municipal services in this remote corner of the world, it falls upon individuals to act responsibly. Hence, when you explore these regions, I hope you'll consider picking up a piece of plastic or a discarded fishing net and disposing of it in a proper waste container when you encounter one. It may be a drop in the ocean, but it's the least we can do. A brilliant restaurant at the end of the world This unexplored corner of the world is truly worth a visit. Aside from encountering the most amiable and accommodating locals and wildlife in Arctic Norway, you'll hardly come across anyone else. Reserve a tiny but charming apartment for a night in Havøysund. The ultimate gem in Havøysund is the restaurant ' Havets Smak ', meaning the taste of the sea. The seafood dishes they offer are genuinely exceptional, truly of the highest quality. And just look at the amount of people that have been at 'Havets Smak'. It's like discovering gold for the first time...at the end of the world. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Narvik Airport (HFT). From there public transport really takes forever, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Destination: when in Arendal; brawls and Disney whispers
Allow me to dispel a myth right from the start. If you've watched Disney 's Frozen and decided to Google the origins of the name "Arendelle," you'll find that, indeed, the name (!!!) is derived from the nearly identical name of the coastal town. However, the comparisons pretty much end there. Despite the picturesque Arendal Disney appeal, with its beautiful centuries old wooden Sørlands houses scattered across rolling hills, the Disney resemblances are minimal. But as strange as the world can be, it still seems to be an impulse for hordes of tourists arriving in grand cruise ships mooring at Arendal's docks. The oldest part of Arendal. Photo by Roxana Zerni on Unsplash In previous articles, you might have read that I'm not a fan of cruise ships for various reasons, so I fervently hope that cruise ships will soon sail into the history books. While I do understand the boon they bring to local businesses, the environmental damage in terms of food wastage, toxic emissions, and shops filled with hideous mass-produced troll figurines doesn't bode well for the world in my view. Moreover, they mar the charming view one would normally have from the old town. And oh yes, mentioning brawls in the title was mostly for clickbait; however, it seems that occasional disagreements do occur on Saturday nights on the streets. And Arendal even having a bit of a reputation. But honestly, where in the world doesn't that happen? That being said (after all, it's a blog, not a scientific paper, and thus allows for outspoken opinions), it's time to delve into the highlights of Arendal. Because the internet loves lists, and I'm no stranger to them either, here's a sum-up in random order of my favourite places in Arendal. Bomuldsfabriken Kunsthall Bomuldsfabriken Kunsthall made my jaw drop!It's basically a former cotton factory repurposed into a dynamic space for contemporary art. My last visit was all too fleeting, and I’ve been eager to return ever since. What sets Bomuldsfabriken apart is its dedication to featuring both local and international artists. With exhibitions that change regularly, every visit promises a fresh encounter with the world of contemporary art. Beyond this, the museum is an integral part of Arendal’s cultural scene, enriching the region with innovative artistic experiences. The building itself, with its exposed brick walls and towering windows, creates a striking juxtaposition between the industrial past and the modern creativity it now hosts. This contrast makes for an utterly captivating viewing experience. In short, Bomuldsfabriken is unmissable when you’re in Arendal! Take that from me! Arendal Jazzklubb The mere existence of Arendal Jazzklubb fills me with joy. It's a tiny stage tucked away behind the central square. But behind the unassuming entrance door, magical things occasionally happen. Such as today while writing, Nils Petter Molvær takes the stage there. One of my all-time favourite Norwegian musicians. I first stumbled upon it in the middle of winter, with Arendal covered in about 20 centimeters of snow, turning it into a fairytale scene (no, not like in Frozen). I had previously attended a concert by Mathias Eick in Kristiansand and was so enthralled that I wanted to experience the exact same concert again. Luckily, there were a few tickets left for his Ravensburg album tour, and that's how I ended up at the Arendal Jazzklubb. I highly recommend attending a one of his concerts if you have a chance. Besides being one of the country's most gifted trumpet players, he strikes me as a remarkably sympathetic individual. Just the fact that he drives a green Saab from the 1970s tells me enough. The concert itself was incredibly charming. Knowing that his album was inspired by his family life made it even more special when it was revealed that a significant portion of his family was in fact in the audience (apparently, some of them live in or around Arendal). So, it's well worth checking out the Arendal Jazzclub's program if you're in the vicinity. The cream of the crop of the Norwegian music world performs here in the most intimate setting. Even if you're not as much of a music enthusiast as I am, you won't escape a bit of starstruck feeling. Tromøya While it's not officially part of the city, it's a stunning island. Especially the wide pebble beach is incredibly beautiful. It's picturesque in every season. Numerous burial mounds dating back to prehistoric times have been discovered here. For a cup of coffee and some treats, you can visit the most charming café on the entire island. Housed in an old farmhouse, surrounded by wild blooming rose bushes, it feels like a little paradise. Apart from locals, very few people know about this place. It's one of those spots you only discover through word of mouth. And what makes it even more exclusive are the opening hours, which are quite specific – a few weeks in June, the entire month of July, and a few weeks in August. So, be sure to check the opening hours in advance to avoid finding a closed door. If you have any wedding plans, Bjellandstrand Gård can turn your romantic ideas into reality. Otherwise, you come to Tromøya mainly for the stunning nature and the Southern Norwegian idyll. Plenty of campsites and outdoor activities for those who seek them. But you'll figure that out on your own, I assume. Unwrapped Butikkafé Just the thought of it makes my green heart skip a beat. It's by far the cosiest place in town for a cup of coffee , but also for your breakfast or lunch, I can't think of a nicer place. They don't just serve coffee; they also sell handmade soap, various kitchen utensils, and, most importantly, a lot of locally produced food. I sincerely hope that this sets the blueprint for future retail – locally produced, minimal to no plastic packaging, and run by passionate people with their hearts in the right place. Really, I can hardly put into words what a charming shop this is. If you're reading this blog post and are inspired by the courageous and inventive people running Unwrapped, you're obligated to pay them a visit... and take a bar of soap for your loved one. Kuben Museum If you're into museums, Kuben is an absolute gem. Here, you can immerse yourself in the history of Agder. Within walking distance of Arendal's center, you'll find KUBEN, where you can experience the rich history of Aust-Agder through exciting exhibitions. The "LIVSTEGN" exhibition, new in 2022, takes you on a journey through the Stone Age, Bronze Age, and Iron Age in Agder. From the arrival of the first people in the region to the end of the Viking Age – a span of about 10,500 years. In our exhibition, you can see some of the fantastic artifacts found in Agder during this period and learn how society transitioned from the Stone Age to the Viking Age. The "Enslaved" exhibition especially moved me. I guess it's because I'm all too familar with the history of the enslaved. Take that from a Dutch person. It consists of a three-part exhibition with slavery as its overarching theme. For Arendal, the story of Fredensborg is both local history and world history. The ship sank off the coast of Tromøy in 1768, and the wreck was discovered in 1974. The Fredensborg is considered the world's best-documented slave ship found as a wreck. The exhibition showcases many objects found during the excavation of the wreck. The final part of the exhibition deals with modern slavery, shedding light on various forms of slavery that still exist today. Old Town Of course, taking a stroll through the old town, called Tyholmen is a must. The buildings bear witness to the bustling activity that once thrived here. In fact, this was one of the most important ports on Norway's southern coast. Enormous fleets of sailing cargo ships must have brought a vibrant atmosphere to the town. From here, vast quantities of timber were shipped to the rest of Europe. The colossal fleet of sailing cargo ships must have brought about a tremendous vitality. However, with the advent of steamships, the relevance of Arendal quickly waned, and the town lost some of its vigour. Yet, this is precisely what gives the town its charm. The beautiful wooden cottages and street names transport you back in time. (Take "Gibraltarbakken," for instance. A group of Norwegian sailors found that there was quite a bit of bickering in Gibraltar. Apparently, the same was true in Tyholmen. That's why it's now called Gibraltartoppen. Whether it's true or not, who can say. Arendal Viewpoint and the Islands I can really recommend to take a lift to the viewpoint for a splendid panorama . You get a gorgeous view over Arendal and the islands off the coast. And please do board one of the many ferries is another delightful way to view the town from a different perspective. But, of course, these are self-explanatory activities. The Prison Hotel To truly have yourself 'caught' by Arendal's hospitality, I wholeheartedly recommend reserving a night at the prison hotel . Of course, I have no knowledge of all the obscure types who may be reading my articles, but I'll assume for convenience that you've never spent a night in prison. Well, that's about to change. It's a bit of a gimmick, admittedly, but a very enjoyable one. And all this in Arendal of all places. Naturally, you could opt for the usual path and enjoy a night's sleep in one of the ordinary hotel chains . However, what's even more enjoyable is renting a charming little microhome in Grimstad (just under a 20-minute drive from Arendal). This is by far the most original accommodation you can afford in the vicinity of Arendal and the birds will serenade you awake. I must acknowledge that I've only scratched the surface of Arendal as a whole. But I did promise to share my favourite spots with you. And as you may have gathered by now, I've been quite enamoured with Arendal for quite some time. I hope you'll share my sentiments after spending a day or two there. Let me know on Instagram , alright?
- Destination: an 11-year cycle at its peak; 2025 is the best year to witness the Northern Lights. 4 locations you should consider.
You may have caught wind of recent news if you're reading this in early October 2024. Perhaps you've seen reports that the Northern Lights were visible as far south as France. Yes, you read that correctly— the Northern Lights were seen in the south of France. According to accounts, they were visible to the naked eye and certainly with a good camera and a slightly longer exposure. And last night (11.10.2024) curtains of red and green light were dancing over my own home. The northern lights above my house The fact that the Northern Lights were observable so far south is neither a coincidence nor an exception. Every 11 years, the conditions for seeing the Northern Lights are exceptionally favorable. I'll spare you the scientific details, but in essence, the sun rotates in a way that a region on its surface with frequent solar flares becomes more directed towards Earth. Because of the 11-year cycle being at its peak now; 2024 and the start of 2025 are the best years to witness the Northern Lights. Therefore, there’s no time to lose to plan your journey north to witness this incredibly impressive phenomenon. However, as you hopefully understand, there are no guarantees. While you're preparing to spend an entire night gazing at the sky, it might happen that on that very day, it's overcast, or there simply hasn't been enough solar activity. Unfortunately, your travel insurance doesn't cover this, and suing the Norse gods won't be of much use as they do not speak any English. Nevertheless, as mentioned, your best chances are during the winter and early spring, as well as late autumn of 2024. Therefore, I thought it fitting to compile a list of fantastic locations for you that are not only worth a visit on their own but also ideal for Northern Lights viewing. Let's set off, in no particular order. The beating heart of Lofoten Trevarefabrikken is quite an institution in Arctic Norway. It's one of those places you immediately want to be a part of. You want to become a fixture there. You want to be friends with the bar staff. And perhaps, you might even fall in love. Well, it's a dangerous place because there's a chance you won't want to leave. In brief, what makes this place special is, firstly, its location—right by the sea, with mountains in the distance and a vast sky stretching above you (which is crucial when you come here to see the Northern Lights). Moreover, there's remarkably little light pollution because it's so remote. Additionally, it's a kind of cultural hub. If the misfortune befalls you that it's cloudy for three days and rain is beating against the windows, your trip to Northern Norway won't feel wasted. As I mentioned, you feel immediately at home here. As an interior enthusiast, I'm particularly pleased with how the rooms are designed— a bit 'rough around the edges,' as it's sometimes described. Still, exceptionally tasteful and unpretentious. The communal spaces also feel warm and pleasant despite the industrial character of the building itself. When leaving, your suitcase will probably be a bit more heavy due to the weight of all the beautiful experiences and encounters you've had at Trevarefabrikken. Arctic Romance If you're looking for more privacy, I highly recommend the newly opened (September 2023) WonderInn Arctic . This tried-and-true concept of beautifully furnished and secluded small cabins, with fantastic beds and, more importantly, huge glass walls providing a magnificent view of the polar night from your bed, is worth considering. Here, you sleep with your curtains open so you don't miss a minute of what's happening in the sky. Or you observe the Northern Lights from your own hot tub. Nothing wrong with that either. Moreover, WonderInn Arctic is incredibly isolated, giving you a pleasant sense of insignificance. The nearest airport is about an hour's drive away (EVE). The Arctic landscape and the expansive view make this WonderInn one of the most extraordinary memories. This is a dream location with limited capacity. I'm not joking when I say that if you plan to come to Norway next winter, it's advisable to book your overnight stay here now. Regular hotels might still have a bed available, but these exceptional places sell out. Better safe than sorry! Stargazing from your own bed Aera - Panorama Glass Lodge is a place in the same class as WonderInn, but here, the feeling of luxury and privacy is just a bit more significant. You sleep under a large glass window, in a very spacious bed, and you really don't need to leave your room. Here, you bring your life with you. Your dinner is brought directly to the cabin, where the staff sets up a lovely table for you, just like in a restaurant. Enjoy your private dinner while waiting for the Northern Lights to appear outside your window. You truly don't have to think about anything, allowing all attention to be directed towards each other and the tremendous window, with the opportunity to witness one of the most spectacular natural phenomena that exist. I mean, this is where I’d easily spend a week winding down and forgetting there’s a world out there. The end of the world Lastly on my list is Varanger Lodge . And now, we find ourselves at the very end of the world. I have recently fallen a bit in love with this area. Not just because of the unbelievable beauty of the landscape and the unique flora and fauna, but also due to a tremendous fondness for the Norwegians who live here. They are a different kind of people—down to earth, warm, and incredibly helpful. Varanger is a magical place. Numerous herds of reindeer roam around, seemingly unconcerned about people or cars. Anyway, I won't allow myself to be tempted again to write in lyrical terms about this part of Norway. For that, you can read what I previously wrote about Vardø . Varanger View in Vardø Wherever you decide to go, I wish you a fantastic journey, and do let me know through Instagram how it went and where you've been. I'd love to hear from you. **Getting there (or anywhere): it is most likely you'll arrive at an airport. In this remote part of the world public transport eats up a lot of your time. So it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Destination: southern charm; what to do in Kristiansand if it was up to me
Norway you've heard of. Because that's why you're here. But Kristiansand might not ring a bell for you. I'll admit, it didn't exactly occupy a prime spot in my mental map either, despite being the largest city in the historical Sørlandet region (Southern Norway). With around 70,000 inhabitants, it's not exactly a bustling metropolis. But everything changes in the summer. It turns into a lively town buzzing with activity. I spent a good three years living and working there, and I'd be thrilled to elaborate on what I'd do if I had just one day to revel in Kristiansand. First things first; breakfast. To get your fill, you've got to make your way to a tucked-away corner of the historic center known as Posebyen. This charming grid-shaped neighbourhood is dotted with delightful old wooden houses that have miraculously withstood the ravages of the countless city fires over the centuries. The Odd Bakery is the crème de la crème of bakeries in Kristiansand. Their sourdough bread is a thing of legend, and their cinnamon buns and pastries are pure perfection. The Odd Bakery is nestled within Posebyhaven , a shared courtyard boasting a terrace and a stage where concerts regularly grace the airwaves, especially in the summertime. And don't miss out on the adjacent retro-style cocktail bar for a refreshing tipple. Surprisingly, despite all the modern gadgets at our disposal, this hidden gem still manages to elude many tourists. In my humble opinion, the most enjoyable shop in town is Design Kollektivet . Brace yourself for a kaleidoscope of treasures, including second-hand clothing, local artwork, and an eclectic mix of curios from various eras that are guaranteed to bring a smile to your face. Located on the bustling main shopping street, this hidden gem resides in a capacious basement that you might easily overlook. Buying a souvenir from here is way more fun than snagging one of those mass-produced trolls from some far-flung, (with all due respect) low-wage country. Design Kollektivet The KunstSilo , is most certainly one of the new cultural landmarks of the entire south-coast of Norway. It was opened in May 2024. This ambitious project, spearheaded by the municipality of Kristiansand, was about refurbishing an old grain silo by the harbor into a sensational museum. The Southern Art Museum has been closed for a while now, which has left art enthusiasts feeling a bit forlorn. It's well worth coming to Kristiansand just for a visit to Kunstsilo. The jaw-dropping architecture and the impressive Tangen collection are both stunning. After all, it's not everyday that Time Magazine mentions a small regional town and Kunstsilo as one of The Worlds Greatest Places of 2024! When it's time to dine, I would like to hand you two very different recommendations. If you're in the mood to indulge or have something special to celebrate, book a table at Smag&Behag . The menu is out of this world, the staff are simply fabulous, and the building itself (a former gymhall), not to mention the decor, will take your breath away. Oh, and be prepared to get a little greedy when you set eyes on their magnificent wine cellar tucked away in the basement. On the other hand, if you're after a more laid-back and affordable experience, head on over to Bønder i Byen (Farmers in the City). Their chicken salad is a known classic, and the rest of the menu is equally fantastic. They serve up honest, delicious dishes crafted from the finest local ingredients, and their enthusiastic staff will make sure you have an absolutely delightful evening. For a pint in the sun, there's no place I'd rather be than Vaktbua . The last time I visited, the founder herself still ran the joint. That energetic lady had an uncanny knack for booking the most phenomenal international artists to grace the stage of this tiny and cosy little bar. Trust me, it's the most chilled-out spot in all of Kristiansand. Some folks might label it as "alternative," but what does that even mean, really? Kristiansand is teeming with bars and cafes, but the best-kept secret, and also the most delightful, is Vinbaren på Mølla . Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the city center, this wine bar resides in an old building that's been proudly designated as industrial heritage. Not only do they serve up fantastic wines, but they also host a range of regular events, from crab feasts to live performances by local artists. Oh, and if the terrace gets a bit chilly and you're not quite ready to retreat indoors, fear not—you can borrow a cosy woolen sweater. That's southern charm, the very best version of it. After your final glass of wine, it's time to hit the hay. Having lived there myself, I only had to book a hotel once, and it wasn't exactly a roaring success. During the summer season, the room rates skyrocket and don't quite match the value you receive in return. Steer clear of overcrowded family-oriented hotels like Bystranda. My solid advice? Book your accommodation at least 3-4 months in advance. And if I may be so bold, I highly recommend the Radisson Blu hotel Kristiansand . It might not be the most cutting-edge establishment in town, but it offers the best value for your pennies, having undergone a complete renovation just a few years back. The view from the hotel is breathtaking, and their rooftop bar is an absolute must-visit for a couple of well-deserved drinks in a beautifully decorated mid-century style bar. The optimal time to visit Kristiansand, in my opinion, is between May and September. During this period, the city is vibrant, and numerous delightful events take place. However, it's essential to note that hotel prices, particularly in the high season, can be exorbitant due to Kristiansand being a popular holiday destination for Norwegians, coupled with a relatively limited number of hotels. So, you have two options: either book your accommodation at least three months in advance or plan your visit to Kristiansand in June or late August. Simple, isn't it? Kristiansand Norway; five minutes ago, a mere dot on the map, and now, all of a sudden, you have an itinerary that will pleasantly surprise you in almost every conceivable way!
- Eat: the 5 best restaurants in Kristiansand, according to me of course
Seemingly overnight, Kristiansand has burst onto the global scene. From CNN the Financial Times and Times Magazine, this small provincial town on Norway's southern coast has captured international attention. The catalyst? The spectacular Kunstsilo that recently opened its doors to the public. But beyond this architectural marvel and cultural landmark, Kristiansand is a delightful place to spend a few days. In fact, I spent a fair 3 years living there. When you arrive on the Superspeed from Denmark or your enormous cruise ship has docked, I can heartily recommend that you explore the culinary landmarks as well. In no particular order, I'd like to present you with the best restaurants in Kristiansand for lunch or dinner. Smag & Behag Nestled in a former gymnasium that was part of the Kongensgate school since 1899, this restaurant is a true hidden gem. The setting is immediately captivating. The beautiful wooden floor remains original, as do the beams supporting the roof. The building's character has been preserved with remarkable subtlety. Hanging ball-shaped light fixtures create an ambiance reminiscent of that huge dining hall at Hogwarts. The cuisine is exceptional. On my last visit, I was served a perfectly fried-on-toast halibut and stunning St. Jacques scallops with a delicate curry cream. Each dish is artfully presented, and the service is impeccable. It seems as if they do things with a fair amount of joy, and that seamlessly translates into their dishes and into the service they provide. Oh, and do have a peek into their wine cellar – stuff of dreams. The gorgeous interior of Smag & Behag Sjøhuset As a perfect summer afternoon winds down and hunger begins to stir, I wholeheartedly recommend booking a table at Sjøhuset. True to its name, the restaurant boasts a beautiful waterfront terrace overlooking a bustling marina. Boats come and go, the sound of seagulls and nicely tanned people are part of the ambiance. Unsurprisingly, their menu features an outstanding selection of seafood. This isn't haute cuisine, but beautifully executed classics – from skagen toast to an excellent fish soup. It's equally ideal for lunch. Imagine a crisp glass of cold Riesling and a platter of fresh seafood – this is the essence of slow Southern Norwegian living. Bønder i Byen Translating to "Farmers in the City", the name perfectly encapsulates their culinary philosophy. They exclusively use local ingredients, often sourced directly from farms. Simple farmlike-dishes are transformed into extraordinary yet very honest creations of great vegetables, meats and what-nots. Their chicken salad has gained a legendary status amongst the fine people of Kristiansand. If you have the opportunity, it makes for an outstanding lunch too. As you might have guessed, I really like how they do things there. Boen Gård Historically, Boen Gård has been owned by a number of royals and blue-blooded figures dating all the way back to the 1400's. And it later became a destination for prominent figures from the international upperclass, drawn by the salmon-rich river rushing past this grand farmhouse. In recent years, a magnificent restaurant has opened its doors. In fact, a Michelin star has adorned its facade, which is entirely deserved of course! They serve consistently exceptional dishes that might be described as Scandinavian cuisine with a French twist. The service is impeccable, executed with surgical precision. Their knowledge and respect for the location, dishes, ingredients, and wine list is truly world-class. I was once taken here for my birthday as a surprise – we were the only two guests, and it was magical. Pro tip: Book well in advance, as tables fill up quickly these days. Also, note that the restaurant is slightly outside the city, so consider arranging a taxi or just spend the night there because rumour has it that the breakfast is incredible too. Pieder Ro Located on Kristiansand's busy fishing harbour, Pieder Ro offers a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere. Perfect for enjoying a delicious meal without feeling the need to dress up in any way. They specialise in fish dishes served in a maritime setting. Expect beautifully presented comfort food – and I mean that as the highest compliment. Here you'll find an excellent beef tartare, fish soup, or meat from the Setesdal mountain highlands – a hiker's paradise and home to Norway's southernmost reindeer herd. Pieder Ro is very much a summer restaurant. During the summer season, Fiskebrygge often hosts fantastic live concerts, with boats filling the harbour and all of Kristiansand turning out to enjoy the atmosphere. This is the perfect moment to secure a table.
- Stay: 5 of the classiest and oldest (historic) hotels in Norway
I have a penchant for antiquity. I relish the aroma of aged books and tarred wood, love automobiles with at least a quarter-century under their belt, and find solace in jazz tunes from the era of the moon landing. If only I possessed more audacity and wealth and where born 60 years ago, I'd readily admit, I'd likely attire myself each day as if I were English countryside gentry. Entirely unjustified, pretentious and misplaced, obviously. I appreciate your honesty I hear you say... You're welcome. Well, you grasp the gist. This article delves into antiquity. Or in the charm of 5 out of many historic hotels in Norway, to be precise. And let me clarify right off the bat, as the Japanese may peruse this piece with a bemused gaze, for the world's oldest hotel undeniably resides in Japan, tracing its origins back to the year 705 (Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan). The oldest hotel in Norway, on the other hand, emerged more than 900 years later, its inception dating back to 1640. Photo by Jelle van Leest on Unsplash Certainly, in the ensuing centuries, tourism started to really boom in Norway. Particularly, European (royal) elites began journeying northward to be enraptured by the breathtaking Norwegian landscape, reaching its zenith in the 19th century. During this epoch, dozens of legendary hotels emerged all across the land. In this article, I introduce five, including the oldest among them. Hotel Walaker (1640) Utne Hotel (1722) Hotel Union Øye (1891) Dalen Hotel (1894) Tuddal Høyfjellshotel (1895) Walaker Hotel Walaker Hotel embodies a fairytale-esque allure in Solvorn, nestled along the shores of the Lustrafjord in Luster, Sogn. This historic establishment boasts a remarkable lineage, being, in fact, Norway's oldest continually operating hotel. And it shows. History oozes from its exquisitely adorned walls. Situated on Vetle-Vollåker in Solvorn, one of the fjord's most charming villages, I stumbled upon it serendipitously while en route to the Urnes stave church, having missed the ferry. Out of curiosity, we ventured inside and were captivated at every turn. In operation for over three hundred years—nearing four!—it saw the light of day in 1640 and has since remained a sought-after destination for guests seeking to immerse themselves in Norwegian history amidst the quintessential, breathtaking fjord landscape. Owned by the Nitter Walaker family since 1690, it stands as the oldest family-run hotel in Norway. Quite unique! Utne Hotel We journey back to 1722, to a quaint village along the Hardanger fjord. In that year, a remarkably intimate and charming hotel was established, which, as of 2024, still thrives. Utne Hotel exudes vivacity and authenticity, boasting a rich history against a backdrop of awe-inspiring landscapes—I refer, of course, to the natural scenery. Allow me to furnish you with some particulars: The hotel can be deemed intimate, with merely 17 unique hotel rooms, each exuding its own distinct character. The communal areas, too, exude a particularly inviting ambiance. The quality of traditional craftsmanship pervades the interior, significantly contributing to the nostalgic ambiance upon crossing its threshold. Then, there's its location, for this hotel holds its place for good reason. Utne Hotel lies proximate to mountains and fjords, offering a breathtaking vista of the stunning scenery. Hotel Union Øye Hotel Union Øye is a historic hotel nestled along the banks of the Norangsfjord in Ørsta, Sunnmøre. Originally erected in 1891 in Swiss style, designed by the Norwegian architect Christian Thams, it boasts a lengthy tradition as a destination for mountaineers, royalty, writers, and lovers. I mean, peruse the list of legendary and illustrious hotel guests. I'd wager a hefty sum you'd recognize at least half of them. Kings, queens, writers, poets—they all savored their morning repast here. You luxuriate in tranquility and serenity in a hotel best described perhaps as the Norwegian rendition of the grand Budapest hotel. Truly, so exquisitely beautiful and tastefully appointed. Moreover, the surroundings are breathtaking. This is bucket list material, believe me. Dalen Hotel Norwegians describe it as the adventure hotel. And with that, the crux is largely articulated. Dalen Hotel, a historic establishment nestled in the historic region of Telemark, opened its doors in 1894 and seems plucked from an enthralling children's tale of fairies, kings, and magical creatures. The hotel stands as one of the largest wooden structures in Norway and boasts a rich history as a beloved destination for European nobility and royalty. It has been preserved in its original style, offering a unique blend of historical charm and modern comfort. Each space is breathtaking in its own right. If you're contemplating marriage, this is an excellent honeymoon destination. Tuddal Høyfjellshotel Tuddal Høyfjellshotel stands as one of Norway's oldest and most charming high-altitude hotels, nestled on the sunny side of the majestic Gaustatoppen. Originally erected in 1895 as a high-altitude sanatorium, today, you encounter the 5th generation Gurholt family tending to the premises. I first visited in 2020 and was utterly enthralled by the ambiance. It's somewhat secluded, imparting an exclusive feel. The interior, too, is breathtaking. Creaking staircases, exquisite woodwork, and traditional adornments abound, rendering a leisurely stroll through its corridors and chambers truly worthwhile. Activities such as flatbread baking, guided hikes, and special events are offered, and the hotel is a popular venue for weddings and celebrations. Order an aquavit, settle by the fireside, and transport yourself into a century-old time capsule.
- Eat: My favourite Asian restaurants in Oslo
Sometimes, I still yearn for Amsterdam, particularly for its immense diversity. Especially in Amsterdam East, where I resided for years, every 10 meters you'd encounter a different eatery. From Javanese to Jordanese, and from Cantonese to Iraqi—packed within 130 nationalities; what opulence. Yet, I must confess, nearly all my favourite dishes hail from Asia. Thankfully, in Oslo, multiple migrant groups have settled, unlocking the door to 'the East'. To somewhat elevate immigrants and the cultural and culinary richness they bring along, it seemed fitting to guide you through my favourite Asian restaurants in Oslo, listed randomly as they're truly all worthwhile. Listen to Baljit Baljit, son of an Indian immigrant, acquainted Norway with the vast richness and variety of Indian cuisine in the late 1980s. Continuing his father's tradition, he honed his skills as a chef. 'Listen to Baljit' became the moniker of his restaurant. Opting to focus on street food—dishes purchasable directly from food stalls—he crafted an extensive menu featuring diverse small dishes sourced from various regions of India. I emphasize this because the diversity within India is immense; failing to acknowledge it would do the Indian cuisine a disservice. I dare say this is one of the finest Indian restaurants in Oslo. At least, I've dined there thrice, and each time was superb. The ambiance is informal, prices somewhat manageable. The dishes boast excellent quality, taking the concept of comfort food to another level. Izakaya Navigating the fine line of aligning aesthetics with cuisine can often lead to a themed restaurant. However, the opposite holds true at Izakaya. Although I've never been to Japan, the credibility emanating from this tiny basement eatery is impressive. The dark wooden ceiling, decorations, and an overall curated shabbiness immediately transport you to another realm. The youthful servers exude friendliness, suggesting they're all part of an indie band in their spare time, evident from the uniquely dressed twentysomethings with challenging tattoos and canvas bags populating the bar stools. The menu is compact, each dish, in its simplicity, a masterpiece. Noodles so firm they could bounce back if dropped. The shiitake is delightful, don't overlook the spinach cheese pancake. And don't forget a glass of warm sake and sesame ice cream for dessert. If you're not convinced yet; it's always bustling, no reservations accepted. So, arrive early, or enjoy a beer at the bar while waiting. Yum Cha Hong Kong conjures up fantastical imagery. Again, a place this humble blogger has never set foot in. Yet, I feel somewhat acquainted through Yum Cha, an outstanding restaurant specializing in typical Hong Kong dishes. Firstly, the interior is stunning. Dim sum is naturally popular in Hong Kong and is served at Yum Cha. However, the precisely prepared Cantonese dishes are truly masterful. I made the mistake of ordering too much when dining with another couple. Underestimating the satiating quality, the table was laden with steam baskets, bowls, and plates. Miraculously, everything was devoured. My favorite was the garlic pak choi and the fried shrimp balls. Yes, and of course, the amazing dim sum. Yum Cha is somewhat concealed in a street rarely frequented by tourists. However, believe me, it's worth taking the metro or tram to Majorstuen. Golden Chimp Situated at a corner of two streets in the Grønland district, embodies the most 'international' essence of Oslo, subtly reflecting the rich diversity of ethnicities shaped by past armed conflicts. Personally, I find solace in such areas, though I understand not everyone shares this sentiment. Inside Golden Chimp, a wondrous experience awaits. The walls sparingly adorned with kitschy artifacts, peculiar images, and the occasional odd primate. This brings me to the name: Golden Chimp. While unsure of its origin, it brought to mind that (perhaps ugly but groundbreaking) artwork by Jeff Koons, featuring the likeness of Michael Jackson and that peculiar little monkey, found in the Astrup Fearnley Museum in Oslo. Overall, it somewhat resembles a fusion of a senior citizen center in a Chinese city suburb and a roadside eatery in a Soviet country. In essence, here you dine on the most delightful and extraordinary dumplings. The ingredients used are excellent and sometimes surprising. I would say these are the best in Oslo, if not in Norway. While unafraid of experimentation, they firmly stay within the boundaries of what I'd describe as comfort food. Dalat Absolutely fantastic. Let's start with that. If you're acquainted with Vietnamese cuisine, this will be a feast of recognition. If not, you'll never desire anything else after Dalat. What's splendid about Vietnamese cuisine is the marvelous mix of fresh and raw vegetables, herbs, and savory flavors. The blend of taste, aroma, and texture renders it incredibly satisfying. Thankfully, a relatively large Vietnamese minority resides in Norway, ensuring a constant demand for excellent Vietnamese fare. The eatery itself hardly garners attention, despite its prime location in the city center. But that's alright. Those who frequent here know of its existence as they've been here for the 8th time. Expect no influencer-friendly ambiance; it's truly about the food here. The interior feels somewhat bare but certainly adds to the authenticity. The people running the place are just the sweetest you'll ever meet. Opt for classics like Pho and fresh spring rolls. Oh, and it's not overly pricey. Also pleasing. Koie Ramen There's a stark difference between ramen and ramen. With the popularity of the Japanese noodle dish, numerous ramen shops have emerged, some with questionable quality. However, what's crucial with ramen are the noodles. Particularly that they're fresh and firm. In fact, entire Netflix documentaries are dedicated to the perfect noodle. Let them deal with that; the point is, Koie Ramen has consistently surprised me with the quality of their ramen. I dare say they make the best in Oslo, perhaps evidenced by the recent opening of a second branch. And precisely that second one appeals to me greatly. It's never crowded, the kitchen always bustling, perfect for a quick bite. The new branch is near the new Munch Museum, yet despite the prime location, few are aware of its existence. As mentioned, excellent ramen and swift service! Happolati Perhaps a tad pricey, but worth every penny, considering this might be one of Oslo's premier Asian fusion restaurants. I have no vested interest, having dined there only once, but it was an experience. Surprising dishes, excellent service, and a stunning interior, though subject to debate. As a former interior designer, I have a penchant for beautiful places, and this is one such gem. Andersen & Voll crafted the design, offering a splendid interpretation of Japanese and Scandinavian design while maintaining the grandeur of the establishment. Nonetheless, you're here for the menu. Presented in 6 or 8 courses. For me, 6 courses are more than sufficient, especially when paired with a wine package. Head here for a date; you'll be pampered. Katla Finally, we come to an exceptionally unique restaurant that scarcely fits within any typical category. The proof of this can be found immediately on TripAdvisor, as this establishment is not everyone's cup of tea. Complaints range from informal service to graffiti in the restrooms and an unusual taste in music. However, this is not a place for businessmen in suits or a certain type of tourist who expects everything to be served on a silver platter. In my view, the service here is actually quite brilliant. It is highly personal, exceptionally skilled, and indeed very laid-back but in a positive manner. Each dish is a highly creative explosion of flavours, inspired by Asian cuisine. Call it fusion if you like; I don't mind. I enjoyed a seven-course meal and was blown away just about seven times. The restaurant itself looks fantastic, boasting impressive artwork, large glass panels, and an overall raw character. And yes, hip-hop was playing. If you appreciate (pleasant) surprises although I blew most of them by now, do dine at Katla.
- Eat: a goat in a world of sheep; the best restaurant in Oslo
I am talking about head chef Axel Nordahl and his talented team of culinary wizards. Their restaurant takes its name from the street it occupies, affectionately known as 'Goat Marsh Street'. This is not any ordinary eatery; it's Oslo's finest culinary gem, standing out from the rest. Or as I put it in my title: a goat in a world of sheep. Ok, I said it. But there's more to unveil! You could read numerous newspaper articles to get a taste of their culinary prowess, but those accounts only give you a glimpse until you've truly savoured their gastronomic creations. So, instead of delving into the intricacies of their dishes or flavours, let me explain why this restaurant captures the essence of Norwegian dining (and maybe even the Norwegian spirit, if there is one). It all starts with its unassuming location and understated charm. Nestled away from the city's hustle and bustle, it finds its place in a tranquil and captivating residential area. (If my memory serves me right, I believe the chef comes from these very surroundings.) There are no flashy signs of "food," "restaurant," or "luxury." If the blinds were drawn, you might even miss it altogether. The interior design perfectly complements the exterior—nothing too showy or flamboyant, just tastefully refined. The tables display exquisite craftsmanship, as do the striking artworks. Exposed concrete takes the spotlight, in its natural state, untouched. But beyond all these elements, it becomes evident that this establishment revolves around culinary artistry and its devoted chefs. I guess that's why they've opted for a spacious open kitchen. In addition to their meticulous work, there's a sense of joy behind the counter. Laughter fills the air, lighthearted banter livens up interactions with guests, and an unwavering enthusiasm permeates the dining experience and the moments between the twelve courses. The staff, for the most part, share a camaraderie akin to friends enjoying good company. The speakers gently whisper the sounds of Metallica's " Enter Sandman " and 2Pac joined in on the stage too, bringing a broad smile to my face. Not because I'm a die-hard Metallica fan, but because they do things their own way, and they do it very well. I understand it might seem a bit unlikely, but I stand by my belief that this place embodies the spirit of Norway. At first glance, it may seem unassuming and introverted, but once you step inside, you'll discover a world brimming with creativity, delight, and attentive service. If you're planning a trip to Oslo and want to experience this culinary gem, I strongly recommend securing your reservation well in advance . The locals are well aware of Geita's charm, and the evenings tend to sell out consistantly, especially after I dared to call Geita the best restaurant in Oslo. And if you were to visit Oslo for a few days , don't hesitate to let yourself be tempted to a few more great restaurants.
- Destination: a 4 days road trip in Norway; it's brief but it's possible
Allow me to commence by stating that a 4 day itineray in Norway is somewhat on the brief side. Norway, being an expansive country, with very few roads going in a straight line. Moreover, each mountain pass is spectacular, every valley picturesque, and every local bakery serving the finest cinnamon buns. Hence, my aim in this article is to showcase and immerse you in what, in my perspective, renders Norway incredibly beautiful and spectacular. I have charted a route for you and selected four truly remarkable accommodations. In short, pack your suitcase, for you are embarking on a road trip! And the route does not traverse Oslo, where I will touch upon later. Day 1: You arrive in Ålesund, a magnificent city on the west coast of Norway. Situated in a breathtaking location with the deep blue and icy Norwegian Sea on one side and the steep snow-covered peaks of the Sunnmøre Alps on the other. The first time I visited, the temptation to stay was immense, so enchanting did I find it. The city is relatively compact, allowing you to get a good impression within an afternoon. The multitude of fantastic restaurants, coffee houses, and terraces make it tempting to linger for a few days. However, the title of this blog post suggests a bit of haste. Therefore, swiftly proceed to where you rest, namely Hotel 1904 . The imposing Art Nouveau facade belies what awaits inside; a very tastefully and modernly furnished design mecca that would quicken the heartbeat of any interior enthusiast. Moreover, the staff understands the precise meaning of world-class hospitality. Day 2: After a delightful breakfast, check out of Hotel 1904 and embark on a journey to Trollstigen. This is one of the many spectacular driving routes in Norway. The view from the lookout platform over the elongated valley is truly stunning. The journey itself to Trollstigen is breathtaking too. From Trollstigen, the road zigzags down (make sure to stop at Gudbrandsjuvet for a coffee), setting the course for the next overnight stop. Be prepared to frequently pull over and capture yet another photo of the breathtaking scenery. *01.07.2024: note that the Trollstigen road is currently closed. Here's the latest updates . Regarding accommodation, I faced a tremendous dilemma, so I leave that choice to you. Either stop at the Juvet Landscape Hotel , known for, among other things, the film Ex-Machina, or drive a little further to Hotel Union Øye , which can rightfully be considered one of the most unique and stately hotels in Norway with a rather legendary history. Day 3: Wherever you wake up, today the road leads to Geiranger , one of the most spectacular fjords, immortalized as UNESCO World Heritage, and onward to a tiny but legendary village. There's much to tell about the latter; in fact, I've written about it before. In short, this is a picture-perfect fjord village surrounded by beautiful nature. There's, of course, a fantastic hotel, or I wouldn't send you there: the Fjærland Fjordstove Hotel . Fjærland is also famous as a book mecca. For a few kroner, you can grab a second-hand copy of a major author here. Additionally, this is a fantastic base for various adventures, from glacier expeditions to kayak trips. And, of course, a visit to the spectacular floating sauna is a bucket-list item. If you have an extra day, this is the place to spend it (or an extra day in Bergen, that's also not a bad idea). Day 4: Once you've had your breakfast, it's time to set course for Bergen, perhaps the most beautiful city in the country along with Ålesund. This is the longest drive you'll make on this vacation, but fear not, the scenery is absolutely breathtaking. First, input Hopperstad Stavechurch into your navigation system. After a brief stop, continue towards the E16 heading for Voss, allowing you to take a short walk to Bordalsgjelet in the mid-afternoon; a spectacular gorge carved out by a wildly flowing river. Believe me, it's worth stopping the car here briefly before completing the final stretch to Bergen. Describing Bergen as a city cannot be encapsulated in a few sentences. I won't even attempt it. The abundance of charming wooden houses, great restaurants, beautiful vistas, fantastic museums, and cozy cafes make Bergen a destination in itself. Perhaps you might decide to spend 5 or 6 days in this amazing country contrary to the title of this blog post because it pained me a bit to rush through it in such a short timeframe. But we made it, and you've seen an incredible amount of beauty. Planning to stay an extra night in Bergen? Excellent idea. Treat yourself and book a room at Hotel Norge . What a splendid and spectacular piece of hospitality that is. I mentioned it briefly at the beginning; Oslo. Oslo is a bit of a boogieman in this piece. Because, truly, it's a very pleasant city to spend a few days, and by all means, do so. The reason I directed you to the west coast is that the quantity of spectacular landscapes and highlights is simply greater, allowing you to spend your precious time most effectively. Because we were a bit hasty, remember? **One last thing: it is most likely you'll arrive in Ålesund by plane. It is most wise to reserve a car (long) in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Drink: a flappe-latte-drinkety-winkety; the best coffee on Senja (Norway) and a stay on Tranøya
Honesty compels me to confess that we had, in fact, taken a wrong turn. Our intent was to seek out one of the scenic roads of Senja (Norway), and we had misinterpreted one of the symbols on a roadside sign as indicating the beginning of such a route. Later, it became apparent that this was the exit for a national park - undoubtedly worth a visit, but time was a somewhat scarce resource for us. So, after approximately 40 minutes of driving, we found ourselves at a T-junction. To one side stood an aged white church, and on the other, a flagpole with a fluttering pennant. The flag read 'Senja Roasters.' Suddenly, an urge for coffee overcame me. Or maybe not. Perhaps it was more a sense of complete astonishment that such an establishment could reside in such a remote location. As we parked the car, the intrigue deepened. Stepping into Senja Roasters , confusion took the best of me. Not due to a lack of comprehension, but because of the setting itself. The interior, the aroma, and the multitude of languages being spoken, all conspired to suggest a bustling metropolis. Copenhagen, or Madrid... or Boston. Yet, one finds oneself on an island, amidst one of the most secluded corners of Norway. The atmosphere is undeniably cosy. A couple of industrious Gen-Z’ers clatter away at their laptops, the proprietress tends to roasting beans in the back of the establishment, and a young Spanish twentysomething, who utters around three words of Norwegian, charmingly takes my order. All the while, gazing through the window, one is reminded that this is not Copenhagen, Madrid, or Boston. The coffee is amazing. Its flavor exquisite. And the mandarin muffin, equally delectable. Even though the primary draw is undoubtedly the exceptional coffee, I feel compelled to emphasize that there's something noteworthy about the person who has chosen to establish a business right here in a drowsy corner of Norway, and thus bringing back life to an area where the population has been gradually declining for years. It takes an incredible amount of courage. And courage, in this world, deserves far greater recognition. Thus, I call upon every tourist to ‘take a wrong turn’ and indulge in a cup of coffee at Senja Roasters. Afterwards, one can explore Ånderdalen National Park at leisure - the very park that regrettably eluded our time constraints. So I think I should rephrase. There’s no such thing as ‘wrong turns’. Not on Senja at least. I completely understand if, after perusing this snippet, you find yourself eager to spend a few nights on Senja. As luck would have it, in the summer of 2023, I discovered Tranøya; a tiny island nestled just off the coast of Senja. Here, amidst the backdrop of an ancient church, stands an extraordinary old farmhouse tended to by two sisters. In fact, they more or less grew up here. They've essentially transformed the island (Tranøya) into a destination in its own right. Beyond the blissful slumber accompanied by the gentle lapping of waves, this serves as your base from which you can explore the stunning surrounding nature, embark on boat and fishing trips ( did you know that the world's best fishing waters are around Senja? ), partake in guided or independent ventures. For the history enthusiast, there are tours offering a glimpse into the bygone way of life, and, of course, you can venture out with a kayak or a SUP board. There's something special about islands. They are like tiny reserves where authenticity and history seem to be preserved just a bit more diligently than elsewhere. Moreover, your heartbeat almost instinctively slows down. Allow yourself to be enchanted, much like I was, and secure a few nights in this enchanting paradise . It's so beautiful, it's nearly ridiculous. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Narvik Airport (EVE). From there public transport isn't really an option, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Clothes: Layers, layers, layers! What clothes to wear to survive the cold winter in Norway.
Due to an enduring influx of questions, search queries, and inadequate and ill advice on the world wide web on what winter clothes to wear when visiting Norway, I shall guide you through three essential steps in preparing your wardrobe for a stay in Norway. Spoiler alert: it’s not as complicated as it may seem. Having lived here for nearly a decade, coupled with the insights gained from my Norwegian partner, I have learned from my mistakes so you need not repeat them. Firstly, it is vital to understand that the warmth you experience emanates from your own body. Clothes merely serve to regulate this warmth. While this may seem self-evident, many people are not entirely aware of this principle. As the title suggests, by regulation I mean retaining body heat during colder days, achieved through multiple layers. The goal is to minimize heat loss and prevent cold from penetrating to your skin. After reading this article you'll be entirely prepared for slightly colder, or massively colder days during your winter visit to Norway. And as you might have guessed; it's about layers, layers, layers! Layer 1: Underwear Let's start with the basics: your underwear. I’m not referring to boxers, hipsters, or thongs, as that’s beyond my scope. Instead, I mean woollen base layers, worn over your regular undergarments. This layer acts as insulation between your skin and outer clothing, minimizing heat loss. The primary reason wool is essential is its moisture-wicking properties, crucial on cold days. Moisture on your skin can cool rapidly once you stop moving, making you feel very cold very quickly. Wool, on the other hand, excels at insulation and is available in various thicknesses. Men often prefer a slightly thinner quality, while women opt for thicker ones. However, if you’re not accustomed to low temperatures, choose the thickest option to ensure maximum warmth. Over your woollen base layers, wear your daily attire. Jeans or chinos work well, but leave the skinny jeans at home as they leave little room for additional layers. Personally, being warm-blooded, I often wear only the bottom part of my woollen base layer to the office to avoid overheating. However, when skiing or spending extended periods outside, I also wear the top. I highly recommend purchasing several pairs of woollen socks before your trip. Explicitly several, as you might get wet feet, and having spare pairs allows you to dry one pair while wearing another. Layer 2: Woolen jumpers Sticking with wool, the second layer is your ‘regular’ overclothing. In winter, I wear my usual clothing over the woollen base layers, which naturally differs from my summer wardrobe. I am a great fan of woollen jumpers, not only the thick, intricately patterned ones emblematic of Norwegian fashion but also simple V-necks or turtlenecks. This layer provides extra warmth, and I heartily recommend bringing a woollen jumper. My favourite brands are Dale of Norway and Devold, known for their quality and durability. I own a Dale of Norway jumper from 1991 that I still wear all the time – it’s indestructible. For trousers, the requirements vary widely. For city trips, ordinary jeans over your woollen base layers suffice. However, if you plan to spend a night outside in Arctic Norway, awaiting the Northern Lights, invest in insulated, windproof, and waterproof trousers. The best brands for such trousers include Jack Wolfskin, Arctix, Columbia, and The North Face, which are widely available. There are also excellent Norwegian brands, but they might be less accessible to readers outside Norway. Layer 3: Jackets Now we come to jackets, where considerations abound. A good rule of thumb is to choose a jacket that is both insulated and waterproof. If you normally wear size M, opt for size L to accommodate the combined thickness of layers 1 and 2. The thickness of the jacket itself depends on personal preference, but with layers 1 and 2 properly sorted, layer 3 is less critical. I personally wear a down-filled parka from Urban Pioneers, a brand available only in Norway. Additionally, I have a versatile jacket with an inner and outer shell that can be separated, although it doesn’t keep me warm below -10°C. But a proper parka would be my best advice. You will also need gloves and a beanie. Choose gloves with touchscreen-friendly fingers to avoid exposing your hands to the cold when taking photos. Beanies are self-explanatory; I have several, but my favourite is a decade-old woollen one that effectively wicks away moisture during activities like skiing. For footwear, I recommend a good pair of insulated boots. There are numerous excellent brands, so focus on water resistance and sufficient height to keep out snow. Ensure they are comfortable on icy surfaces, and consider bringing anti-slip attachments for extra security. You’ll appreciate the stability while others slip and slide around Trondheim. In essence, dressing for Norwegian winters is all about layers. By thoughtfully selecting and combining these layers, you can stay warm and comfortable, no matter how harsh the weather.
- Destination: direct flights from London and Manchester to...Stavanger; an unusual weekend break
I dare to assume that Stavanger wasn't the first destination that crossed your mind when the wild idea of a long weekend getaway with your loved one or your friends took root in your head. Perhaps Paris came to mind, but that's predominantly inhabited by the French who speak exclusively French. Or maybe Amsterdam, but all the hotels there are booked solid with English-speaking bachelor parties. However, there are direct flights from London and Manchester to Stavanger. And there are solid reasons for that. After reading this article, you'll understand precisely why a long weekend in Stavanger is a brilliant idea. Let me guide you. Stavanger Airport is just a half-hour drive from the city center. Here, you pick up the electric car you reserved (you'll need it later, you'll see). Then, you drive to where you'll be staying. I have four options for you, catering to different price ranges but all equally fantastic. Accommodation Eilert Smith : One of the most unique hotels in the entire country for a hundred reasons. Here, you can have breakfast served in your room if you wish. This world-class breakfast comes from the kitchen of Re-naa, Norway's only 2-Michelin-star restaurant. Everyone working here has elevated hospitality to an art form. Something you must experience at least once in your life. The top floor of the hotel features a breathtaking suite with an exclusive view of the city and the coast. If that's a bit much, as I can imagine, the other rooms are also of absolute world-class, with breakfast in bed, of course. Utstein Kloster Hotell : Just outside Stavanger, a short half-hour drive away. This historically rich hotel has all the elements you'd expect from a hotel in a typical Norwegian setting. Beautifully situated on the coast, you have numerous options for outdoor activities here. Kayaking, cycling, paddleboarding, or relaxing in the sauna for two. Villa Madla : If you want it all to yourself, without the interference of hotel staff, Villa Madla is an excellent choice. As one of the most stylish and architecturally attractive buildings in Stavanger, it's a place you won't easily forget. I mean, your private pool, your sauna, and a spectacular sea view. Bring your friends. Hotel Victoria : Elegant sophistication encapsulates the essence of Hotel Victoria. Every element here is meticulously curated – from the exquisite rooms to the outstanding and incredibly attentive staff, not to mention the splendid breakfast and beyond. In terms of the overall package, this may well be Stavanger's finest hotel, perfectly tailored to suit every taste. Additionally, its central location ensures that everything is within easy walking distance. If you find the aforementioned options a bit too niche, then this is unequivocally your best choice. Food Re-naa : The culinary highlight of the entire Norwegian west coast. Words fall short, even for a blogger, to describe the magic the chefs use to conjure up the most extraordinary dishes. For ordinary mortals like me, this is a 'once-in-a-lifetime' experience. I mean, 2 Michelin stars; there are only 413 restaurants worldwide with the same status. Eg&Du : A delightful place for lunch. The fish soup is fantastic, but my personal favorite is the pickled fish dish. The service is excellent, the ingredients are mostly local and outstanding, and the prices are more than reasonable. SÖL : The menu here varies from day to day because access to local ingredients also varies. The flavors are honest and sophisticated, all in a tastefully decorated restaurant in Scandinavian style. The dishes are often inspired by Nordic cuisine. Honestly, I'd prefer to dine here. The service is excellent, the dishes without exception of high quality, and the prices are excellent considering what you get in return. Matmagasinet : Social eating at its best. Primarily a wine bar, the dishes they serve are comfort food at a high level. Especially if you're with a group, this is a particularly nice and casual place to eat and drink through the evening. Matmagasinet is a bit outside the center, but it's always busy. That is to say, particularly popular with the locals, and that's often a good sign. Also worth mentioning are: Restaurant K2 (beautiful food, beautiful ambiance), Sabi Omakase (the most incredible sushi you'll ever taste), Fisketorget (for seafood lovers), and Bakernes Paradis (a wonderful cozy cafe with a bakery; it doesn't get more Norwegian than that). Activities Preikestolen : Of course, this is one of the major attractions of the Stavanger region. And for good reasons. The 40-minute drive there is already spectacular, but the view after the climb is unparalleled. You might want to pray for clear skies because with dense fog, it might be advisable to postpone your visit for a day. Make sure to bring decent shoes (and a guide). Hiking boots are not necessary, but your simple Adidas sneakers might get wet or muddy. Gamle Stavanger : This is the oldest part of the city. The beautiful old seaman's houses now house many galleries and small shops. Whatever the weather, this neighbourhood exudes tremendous charm and makes you acutely aware that you are indeed in Norway. IDDIS Graphic Museum : As a big fan of graphic design and printing art, I couldn't resist recommending this. It's a beautifully designed but small museum where you get a nice impression of the most iconic graphic design that every Norwegian feels nostalgic about. There are also fantastic exhibitions by contemporary graphic designers and artists. Additionally, the museum is housed in a wonderful fusion of industrial heritage and contemporary architecture. Sauna: When you're in Norway, you owe it to yourself and the Norwegians to go to the sauna at least once. In recent years, the sauna culture here has experienced a true renaissance, resulting in a multitude of incredibly fun saunas in almost every city. In Stavanger, you can choose between Damp or Røkt (a bit rougher 'round the edges; but that's how I like it). As a fervent sauna-goer (I do it every week), I've become addicted to the natural 'high' you achieve when you jump from 80 degrees Celsius directly into the cold seawater. At some point, you don't feel what's warm and cold anymore, and that unleashes something in your mind. So if you've had a few too many beers and wake up without energy on a Sunday morning, go to the sauna, and you'll be back in shape after an hour. Speaking of too many beers... Drinks Øvre Holmegate: Stavanger's nightlife street where it's lively both during the day and in the evening. My favorite places for a drink are Hanekam and BlygeHarry . Beyond that, it's all up to you. In this small street, there's something for everyone. Espier Bar : Go here for an aperitif. A cocktail or two, preferably just after sunset so you can still see a bit of the city and the view. Besides the excellent cocktails and stylish decor, you come here mainly for the view. Pjolter&Punch : They shake the most legendary cocktails here. In fact, if you could take a master's course in cocktail preparation, I think everyone would graduate cum-laude. The Irishman : I probably don't need to explain this. And since I'm a big fan of old-fashioned pubs, this had to be on the list of recommendations. Of course, I've left many places and attractions unmentioned, thereby doing great injustice to the respective entrepreneurs. But this is a blog where, based on my own experience and taste, I try to inspire you, not least to ensure you have an unforgettable time in Stavanger. May the weather gods be in your favor and book your flight to Stavanger not too long from now.
- Stay: agritourism in 2025; Norway as a champion of extraordinary farm stays.
If you possess even a modicum of knowledge about Norway, it will come as no surprise that Norway has been an agricultural society for nearly a thousand years. Let's set aside, for the moment, the significance of fishing. The country is truly adorned with (former) farms. As urbanization and prosperity increased, the number of farmers able to sustain the farming life diminished. Faced with significant competition from abroad, the country began to transform gradually. To cut a long story short, due to the decline of small farming operations, agritourism in Norway has experienced tremendous growth in the last decade. In fact, I dare say that Norway has emerged as an absolute champion in the realm of farm stays. The level of creativity exhibited by Norwegians in transforming former farms into holiday paradises is nothing short of impressive. In this piece, I wish to inspire and encourage you to book at least one, preferably several, of these accommodations during your travels through Norway. I am convinced that this adds a unique dimension to your journey that cannot be found in any hotel. Certainly, there are hundreds of farm stays to choose from. To simplify matters, I have selected the most exceptional and unique ones (in my own humble opinion). In fact, I've compiled a top 5, a decision that might incur the displeasure of the rest of the country. Nevertheless, I'll take that risk for now. If need be, I may write another article later. Here we go, in no particular order: The epitome of rural romance seems to have been recently reinvented by Steinar and Yngve at Åmot . Åmot is the name of an ancient farmhouse that has been in the family for over a century. It has been transformed into a marvel of aesthetics, hospitality, and romance. Everything here is tasteful, from the décor and colors to the presented cuisine, not to mention the impeccable attire of the hosts. The attention to detail at Åmot influences the entire experience, leaving you impressed at every moment of your stay. Moreover, Åmot is excellently situated on the west side of Norway, nestled between the Sognefjord and Dalsfjord – an ideal base for exploring the stunning nature of this part of the country. And rest assured, there are still sheep. During my travels, I often sleep deeply, perhaps due to the plethora of impressions. Occasionally, I wake up not entirely sure of my surroundings. This may happen when you stay at Flatheim . The landscape alone is breathtaking, situated just below the tree line with snow-capped peaks seemingly within reach. Which is no surprise since Flatheim is situated right next to one of Norway's scenic roads; the Gaularfjellet Scenic Road. The rooms at Flatheim are beautifully decorated, evoking a pleasant sense of nostalgia. During summers, they run a charming little café serving homemade bread and pastries. Flatheim has elevated the essence of agritourism to an art form. For those seeking responsible travel, reserving a few nights here is highly recommended. Who could have dreamed of a Michelin-starred restaurant on a farm a century ago? Perhaps the guests of Boen Gård , as for centuries, elites have frequented the area for fishing in the adjacent river teeming with salmon. It's no surprise that Boen Gård understands hospitality, but what must be emphasized is how they have truly elevated it. As mentioned, the dinner is of unparalleled quality, prepared with mostly local ingredients. The service is equally outstanding. However, what makes it truly remarkable is that you can also stay overnight. This makes it an excellent base for exploring the beautiful southern coast of Norway, and the town of Kristiansand of course. And don't forget to encourage the hosts to share the history of the manor. The stories that emerge are astonishing. Huser Gård is just under 20 minutes' drive from Oslo Airport. In the rolling landscape, right by the river, it is a rural oasis of tranquility. The farm consists of several buildings – a residence, a barn converted into an event venue with a particularly cozy communal space. What Huser Gård is most famous for is WonderInn . They rent a series of completely different micro-houses: an igloo, a gypsy caravan, and a glass cube. Additionally, there's an amazing sauna right by the river that you can use for free. Last but not least, a herd of alpacas, a couple of ponies, two little pigs, and a troop of chickens. This is the perfect marriage of rural romance and Instagram. Brimi Sæter is quite an institution, and by that, I mean it's world-famous... in Norway. And for valid reasons. Besides world-class hospitality, there's a cheese factory, and the buildings and outdoor spaces are populated by all kinds of animals. You stay in a manner you couldn't even imagine in your wildest dreams. The attic (låvelofte) is traditionally furnished with a multitude of traditional beds. You wake up, and breakfast is served more or less at your bedside. Absolutely unique in the world and an unforgettable experience. Moreover, the food served is of immense quality, most of it homemade. The farm is situated above 800 meters, meaning you are above the tree line in Norway. From every window, you have an incredible view of the surrounding mountains. And the spectacular Jotunheimen is within close reach. I also strongly advocate for using the Hanen website. Hanen is an umbrella organization for food-producing farmers and unique farm stays. They have a handy map highlighting farmers offering overnight stays and the sales of locally produced products such as apple cider, sausages or superb bread. The Hanen logo almost always signifies a worthwhile stop. I recommend downloading the Hanen app before your trip. Many farms also offer accommodation, making it a treasure trove few tourists are aware of. I trust that this list has managed to inspire you. In fact, I sincerely hope you visit all the aforementioned destinations, as each possesses its own distinctive character and is situated in diverse locations across the country, each with its unique charm.
- Destination: a list of 19 beautiful villages in Norway you've never heard of (but should definitely visit)
Norway is an immense country with relatively few inhabitants. Consequently, the number of major cities is quite limited, and they are widely dispersed. However, nestled between these cities lie a plethora of picture-perfect and picturesque villages that seem almost too beautiful to be real. Moreover, for each village, I provide a fantastic accommodation option, allowing you to fully immerse yourself in the beauty away from the beaten path. Unlike many other blogs, I have actually visited these places myself. So, some first-hand recommendations here. Grimstad Grimstad is a stunning small town on the southern coast of Norway. It was the longtime residence of the world-renowned playwright Henrik Ibsen, who worked there as a pharmacist for an extended period. Additionally, this town, with no more than 24,000 inhabitants, hosts a branch of the University of Agder and the Norwegian Institute of Marine Research. Opt for one of the most beautiful vacation homes you can find in the region for your stay. Things to do in Grimstad: Enjoy a drink at Apotekergården . Indulge in delicious cinnamon buns at Hesnes Gartneri . Explore the history at the Ibsen House . Savor a fantastic dinner at Smag og behag . Tvedestrand A picturesque village where time seems to have stood still. Beautiful white houses and a small harbor where numerous pleasure yachts dock in the summer. The first time I visited here, I couldn't help but think of the Truman Show. Once you're here, you'll understand the reference. Stay at the Tvedestrand Fjord Hotel , located right by the water, which greatly enhances the perception of this beautiful village. Things to do in Tvedestrand: Take a boat to Furøya for a delightful lunch or dinner (summer only). While not in Tvedestrand, the Trebåt festivalen taking place in August in Risør is nearby. Nyksund This village on the west coast was completely abandoned in the 1970s but has recently experienced a remarkable revival, becoming a creative hotspot. In the 1990s, a group of German students and artists moved here. For lunch, dinner, and accommodation, head to Nyksund Ekspedisjonen . Mandal Mandal may be a small dot on the map, but it boasts incredibly beautiful beaches where I've spent many summer days. The village itself is charming. Stay at Mandal Hotel , but be aware that it can get quite crowded during the peak season. Things to do in Mandal: Visit the beautiful beaches. Indulge in treats from Edgar's Bakeri & Konditori , the best bakery in the area. Explore the Vigeland house , where the legendary Norwegian artist brothers lived and worked. Experience the Mandal Jazz Festival . Bærums Verk Former industrial heritage from the 16th and 17th centuries has been transformed into charming shops. If you're staying in Oslo, this is an excellent short day trip. Things to do in Bærums Verk: Enjoy lunch at Melboden , where you can sit in the sun on a picnic bench and enjoy delicious pizza and a cold beer. Watch young artists showcase their skills at the glassblowing workshop (especially on Saturdays and Sundays). Have dinner at Værtshuset . When the weather is nice, the garden is a picturesque setting for a meal and drinks. If you're with children, the tiny steam train museum is worth a visit. Visnes Ice-blue glacier lakes and a beautiful meandering river characterize Visnes. This is one of those legendary Instagram locations where many influencers pose with their back-ends against a stunning backdrop. Stay at Visnes Hotel Stryn . Things to do in Visnes: Visit the Briksdal Glacier (Briksdalbreen). Explore Raksætra . Drive along Gamle Strynefjellsvegen. Fjærland A picturesque village on the fjord, Fjærland boasts an enormous amount of second-hand books, a beautiful hotel, and serves as a base for various outdoor adventures. Stay at the beautiful Fjordstove hotel . Things to do in Fjærland: Explore the numerous second-hand bookshops. Relax in the floating sauna, ' Dampen .' Join Fjærland Guiding for mountain excursions and kayak tours on the fjord. Agatunet A gem of medieval fjord culture, Agatunet consists of perfectly preserved medieval buildings, offering an excellent glimpse into the past. Located near Odda, why not stay in Woodnest ? Things to do in and around Agatunet: Go on a cider tour, a specialty of Hardanger. Hike to Trolltunga , the iconic rock formation even featured in an IKEA poster. Explore the entire Hardanger area, it's gorgeous! Lærdalsøyri One of the most beautiful fjord villages, Lærdalsøyri is also home to the world's longest road tunnel. Moreover, it has become a destination for lovers of (vintage) sports cars, with several meetings taking place, especially during the summer. Stay at 29 | 2 , one of Norway's most beautiful boutique hotels. Things to do in and around Lærdal: Drive along the Aurlandsfjellet Scenic Road. Visit the Stegastien viewpoint . Explore the Borgund stave church , one of the most beautiful and famous ones. Vardø Home to a world-famous monument, Vardø is worth visiting just to see exactly that. The village itself feels like a frontier, incredibly remote, which makes it a unique destination in itself. Stay at Vardø Hotel . Things to do in and around Vardø: Explore Hamningsberg, a beautiful secluded fishing village at the end of the legendary Varanger road. Visit Drakkar Leviathan . Explore Vardøhus Fortress. Enjoy the view from Domen Viewpoint. Uttakleiv When you think of Norway, you might not immediately think of a surf culture. However, there are plenty of beautiful sandy beaches that become surf destinations in both summer and winter. Lofoten is dotted with accommodation options, so you'll find something suitable. Husøy (Senja) One of the more remarkable places to build a village, Husøy is a tiny island, fully exposed to the wind. It's difficult to imagine what it's like to live here year-round, especially during the months of darkness. While you don't necessarily have to stay here, I recommend booking a night at Tranøya for one of the most unique accommodations in and around Senja. Things to do in and around Senja: Explore Senja, one of Norway's most beautiful islands. Drive along the National Tourist Route. Visit Senja Coffee Roasters. Explore Ånderdalen National Park. Havøysund A tiny fishing village at the end of the world, Havøysund boasts the oldest evidence of permanent settlement dating back to the Neolithic Age. Stay at the Arctic View Glamping & Restaurant and enjoy excellent seafood dishes at Havets Smak during the summer. Røst One of the most remote islands in Norway, Røst offers breathtaking views in all directions. It's also home to a huge colony of puffins, making it a mecca for nature and bird lovers. If you're tired of screen time, this is the place to be. Stay at Telegrafen or Bryggehotel . Things to do in and around Røst: Visit Skomværkroa for a refreshing drink. Rent a stand-up paddleboard or join a fishing excursion. Å The name alone conjures up images of wonder. Å is also one of the most photographed places in Lofoten, and for good reason. It's almost mandatory to stay in one of the characteristic Rørbuer . Things to do on Lofoten: Explore Lofoten! Brekkestø One of the most beautiful and charming coastal villages on the southern coast of Norway. You'll hardly encounter any tourists here, just Norwegians enjoying their holidays, mooring their boats to enjoy an ice cream. If I were to build a house somewhere, it would be here. If you decide to stay, I recommend the Lillesand Hotel . Things to do in Brekkestø: Visit Brekkekjærhaven Kulturkafé . Explore downtown Lillesand. Røros Røros is one of two towns in Norway designated as "mining towns" by the king, along with Kongsberg. The town has preserved its old wooden houses and cultural landscape, earning it a place on the UNESCO World Heritage List. With its unique and well-preserved wooden workers' houses, Røros has a distinct character, especially charming and romantic in winter. Stay at the Erzscheidergården hotel . Things to do in Røros: Visit Røros Church. Explore Røros Museum. Attend the winter fair. Sogndalstrand An adorable little coastal town hidden away in southwest Norway. This beautiful village has hardly been discovered by the masses, leaving it beautifully preserved. Although it looks quaint, life on the southwest coast of Norway was tough in the past. You don't see much of that now. If you're spending a night here, Sogndalstrand Kulturhotell is your best option. Things to do in Sogndalstrand: Explore Brufjellhålene. Visit Helleren i Jøssingfjord . Solvorn One of the most picturesque fjord villages, Solvorn has a long history as a trade center, church site, and courthouse site. It's also the place where the ferry crosses to Ornes, home to the famous 12th-century Urnes Stave Church. Naturally, you'll stay at the oldest hotel in Norway, with a history dating back to 1650; the Walaker Hotel . Things to do in Solvorn: Visit Urnes Stave Church . Explore Galleri Walaker. This comprehensive guide should provide you with an excellent overview of some of the most enchanting places to visit in Norway, along with fantastic accommodation options and activities to enjoy during your stay. Enjoy your journey through the breathtaking landscapes and charming villages of this Scandinavian gem!
- Gear: keep yourself dry and organised; why dry bags are a must when traveling in Norway
Rarely does bad weather encourage me stay inside. On the contrary. The rougher the better. I understand not everyone shares my point of view. But if you're traveling through Norway with a backpack on your back, I would like to give you a golden tip on how to keep your luggage dry and free of moist in case you'll get caught in some occasional rain. In this article I'll attempt to explain: The importance of dry bags while traveling and hiking Essential packing tips for your trip. Dry bags Dry bags have comnpletely revolutionized my outdoor experience, especially in Norway. These versatile bags, available in various sizes, keep belongings dry and organized, eliminating reliance on a backpack alone. During wet hikes or camping trips, dry sacks ensure essential items like electronics and food remain dry. They are particularly useful off-season for keeping fire-starting materials like birch bark, matches, and candle stubs dry. Additionally, dry sacks help keep clothing dry, providing comfort with dry socks and underwear after rain. While some sleeping bags come with waterproof covers, dry sacks can offer extra protection. I frequently embark on journeys with a tent, and it is not uncommon for me to find myself setting it up amidst a torrential downpour. During such times, it is immensely gratifying to be able to retrieve items from my rucksack without the concern of them becoming drenched. Here is what I typically store in my dry bags: The majority of my clothing My sleeping bag Provisions Fire starters Electronics such as power banks and GPS devices Maps There is a variety of dry bags available in different types and sizes. Find the set that best suits your needs. Some essential packing tips Foremost, a high-quality backpack is of paramount importance. If you are in the market for a new one, ensure it will accommodate the type of excursions you plan to undertake. Gather all the items you intend to bring, estimate the required capacity in litres, and only then proceed to purchase your new backpack. Depending on the nature of your journey, it is crucial to compile a packing list to ensure nothing is overlooked. In this article, I offer you a head start by listing a number of essentials you might need while travelling through Norway.
- Eat: in abundance; picking mushrooms in Norway
If you find yourself wandering through a random forest in Norway between late August and late October, chances are you'll stumble upon a plethora of mushrooms, many of which are edible and many grow in abundance. Much like many, I've become utterly addicted to the pursuit and picking of mushrooms. In other words, that part of my brain where reward is exchanged for a dopamine shot now understands that finding mushrooms equals a dose of happiness. To cut a long story short, discovering a large group of orange-yellow chanterelles after half an hour of searching is incredibly satisfying. And it's not just about the joy of discovery; the taste is phenomenal. Most edible mushrooms also come with a host of health benefits, but more on that later. The purpose of this piece is to share some more tips and trics on picking mushrooms in Norway, harvesting etiquette, and a few tools to make foraging in the woods easier and more rewarding. Admit it, how delightful is it to eat your own picked mushrooms while camping? How to pick the best mushrooms My preferred mushrooms, commonly found in Norway, include chanterelles, black trumpet mushrooms, funnel chanterelle and porcupine mushroom. While there are general guidelines on where to find them, luck plays a significant role. I've discovered most chanterelles near coniferous trees, on sparser ground, or in the forest amidst grass. When mushroom hunting, you don't need to be a mycology professor to distinguish between edible and non-edible varieties. This incredibly handy booklet written by Danish mushroom professor Jens H. Petersen, provides detailed descriptions of edible mushrooms and their look-alikes (which might be toxic). It has been invaluable because doubts can sometimes creep in, especially when hearing tales of organ failure two days after consuming a certain mushroom. However, fear not; sticking to mushrooms that have no resemblance to anything harmful keeps you on the safe side. If in doubt, you can even download this app . Upload a photo of the mushroom, and you'll receive an immediate message about its edibility or if you should steer clear. The benefits of mushrooms Apart from the joy of searching and finding mushrooms, there's another crucial reason to elevate mushroom foraging to a hobby—its benefits for your body and health. Mushrooms are a low-calorie food packed with essential vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. They're recognized as a vital part of a healthy diet. UV-exposed mushrooms are a good source of vitamin D, crucial for bone and immune health. Cremini mushrooms are an excellent source of zinc, vital for the immune system and optimal growth in infants and children. Mushrooms contribute to lowering blood pressure due to their potassium content, countering the negative effects of sodium. Additionally, their anti-inflammatory properties boost the efficiency of the immune system, thanks to high levels of selenium, vitamin D, and vitamin B6. Studies have shown that, in combination with exercise and lifestyle changes, mushrooms can aid weight loss. Antioxidants in mushrooms may enhance cells' defense systems, protecting against obesity-related issues. Mushrooms, rich in fiber, protein, and antioxidants, may reduce the risk of serious health conditions such as Alzheimer's, heart disease, cancer, and diabetes. Practical tips and tools For harvesting and storing mushrooms, it's handy to bring a knife and a brush . Cut the mushroom close to the ground with the knife, and use the brush to clean off the soil. Carrying a net is also useful for allowing sufficient air circulation, keeping the mushrooms in good condition. When I gather large quantities, I often dry them by laying them on parchment paper and letting them air dry or using a convection oven set to 50 degrees Celsius. Ensure the oven is slightly ajar to let the evaporated moisture escape. Once completely dry, store them in an airtight jar for use in fantastic risottos or pasta dishes througout the winter. But there's a good chance you're out and about with a tent or camper. This means you'll likely devour your freshly picked mushrooms right away. I won't bore you with endless recipes, as others are far more adept at that. Instead, watch this video by the utterly charming chef Max Mari ola and let yourself be inspired. Some toast, some salt and pepper, a slice of cured meat...mmmmm!
- Stay: when a musician sets the tone; The Arctic Hideaway
When you pour the thoughts and dreams of a musician (Håvard Lund), the conceptual and architectural vision of a pair of architects, Rintala and Eggertson , and a cluster of abandoned small islands into a tumbler glass, add a cube of ice, and gently stir, something extraordinary must surely emerge. And so it happened. I don't know much beyond what can be gleaned from the written word, for I was not there. But I can imagine that this is roughly what transpired. A group of creative souls gathered around a kitchen table, sketching ideas with pencils under a bright lamp. The exact details of the process and those present are somewhat inconsequential. The fact remains that you can visit this place, stay there, and it is undoubtedly the most desolate experience you will encounter in this magnificent country; The Arctic Hideaway. The seven small buildings were conceived and designed by architecture students. To reach this destination, you must first embark on a ferry ride, venturing so far that you truly feel transported to another world. Hence, I wholeheartedly recommend this place to anyone who has toiled relentlessly in recent years and yearns for a slower heartbeat. The cottages are modern, yet somewhat simple. This means that, among other things, if you need to use the restroom at night, you have to walk to the main building. But who cares? It suits the nature of this destination. What should you bring? Woolen sweaters, regardless of the season. Be prepared for wind and rain. And pack swimwear for the sauna. You can either rent separate cottages or the entire perimeter if you wish a more private stay . This is a destination that knows no equal. It really doesn’t. Simply marvelous!
- Drink: Coffee on a Norwegian mountaintop; how I make coffee while hiking
As an avid enthusiast of the great outdoors, I easily forgo a myriad of daily trivial luxuries. When embarking on multi-day hikes in Norway, I carry only the absolute essentials. However, the one luxury I never relinquish is coffee. I just NEED my coffee while hiking. I always bring a small ziplock bag of coffee that I grind at home before setting off. In the morning, I prefer to kindle an open fire to boil my coffee water. However, if it’s rainy or the midst of summer, I resort to using my Primus stove. Being somewhat of a romantic (and a bit of a traditionalist), an open fire brings me the greatest satisfaction. Allow me to share my favourite coffee options for when I crawl out of my sleeping bag in the morning. Anyway, here are my three recommendations: Finalpress This tiny device weighs next to nothing, yet allows me to brew a delightful cup of fresh coffee in the morning. At home, I always use a percolator and freshly ground Arabica beans for my coffee. The Finalpress comes closest in terms of experience and taste, giving me a sense of home even when I’m perched on a chilly mountaintop. As I mentioned, it’s small, sturdy, inexpensive, and easy to carry. Stanley The Camp Pour Over Set If I have a bit more space in my backpack, I bring my Stanley Pour Over Set set, although this is a rare occurrence. I usually only pack it for day hikes. This product is more suited for use alongside a kettle in your workshop or garage, preventing you from having to enter the house with dirty hands. Nonetheless, it has become a trusty companion on tours. Using my Primus stove, I boil some water sourced from a stream and swiftly pour it over my ground coffee beans. Moreover, Stanley products are renowned for their durability, lasting a century, so why not bring it along? Wacaco Nanopresso My father-in-law is a gadget aficionado, so it was no surprise when he gifted me a Wacaco espresso machine last year. I must admit, it produces a marvellous and robust espresso. Perhaps it’s my age and generation, but I am adamant about not creating more waste than I already do. This device requires Nespresso or similar capsules, which I find a step too far, especially on a mountaintop. All that waste needs to be carried back down the mountain and disposed of properly. Therefore, while the coffee is excellent, it feels somewhat superfluous to me.
- Stay: a grandiloquent list of the 15 most special hotels in Norway: the best places to stay
As the title promises, this list comprises the utmost in hotels and best places to stay in Norway one could possibly envision. Strangely enough, I had to leave quite a few hotels unmentioned. However, when you're in the midst of planning your journey to Norway and decide to reserve a night at one or more of the establishments below, rest assured, you're guaranteeing yourself an exceptional stay. Let us set off (in no particular order). Juvet Landscape Hotel : A pinnacle of modern (landscape) architecture, this establishment stands as one of the most iconic expressions of contemporary design. When you stay here, a glass wall is the only barrier separating you from the spectacular Norwegian landscape. Towering mountain peaks, a swiftly flowing river, and lush vegetation surround you. Moreover, you reside on the edge of one of the country's most epic highways, featuring Trollstigen and Gudbrandsjuvet. Primarily, this hotel serves as a canvas for an ever-changing exhibition of seasons: a forest so green it almost hurts your eyes, water from the rushing river so blue it appears dyed, and mountain slopes disappearing into the depths. Hotel Union Øye : A legendary hotel of unparalleled beauty, Union Øye is a place where I would don my Tweed jacket, meticulously polish my leather Chelsea boots, and tuck a Tolstoy novel into my suitcase. The illustrious history of this establishment is evidenced by the notable list of historical figures who graced its premises. Among them, Emperor Wilhelm (that illustrious figure with the unique arm) ordered a cup of coffee, Karen Blixen indulged in Eggs Benedict, and Roald Amundsen, either before or after reaching the North Pole, savored a glass of whisky as a reward for his efforts. Depending on where in the world you are reading this blog, these anecdotes may hold varying significance. After all, I pen this from a European perspective. It cannot be denied that Hotel Union Øye finds itself on a list of places with exceptional allure from a bygone era. In an age of endless reels and anonymous comments, this establishment is a breath of fresh air. Sommerro : The new kid on the block, boldly ascending the lists of the most fantastic hotels with great panache. If your weekend inclines towards a sincere proposal, perhaps in the form of a marriage proposal or something similar, then this is the place to do it. Words, unfortunately, fall short when summarizing the opulence and lavishness that this establishment bestows upon its patrons. A personal favorite within its confines is the exquisite bar, Ekspedisjons Hallen, an artifact reminiscent of the vibrant 1920s. Here, an atmosphere of elegance unfolds without descending into the obscene. The art-deco interiors transport you to another era, amplified by the live jazz—an auditory treat that cocoons you in a space where time seems reluctant to escape. Picture spending an evening there with your beloved, leisurely swirling ice cubes in your ice-cold amaretto sour. If this hotel were an actress, it would undoubtedly be Eva Green. Åmot Hotell : Here, you immerse yourself in a kind of rural-chic on steroids. Not only is the hotel far removed from anything remotely resembling a city, but the entire setting is one that defies easy expression in words. The spaces are adorned with a seemingly effortless nonchalance, yet with a keen sense of style and composition, enveloped in a sort of rural chic aesthetic. I almost dare to label it as un-Norwegian, but that would be a mischaracterization. I believe it encapsulates the identity that adorns contemporary Norway – a departure from flashy sports cars, embracing a renaissance of history, quality, and simplicity. I have yet to experience a night's stay here myself, but if there's anything on my wish list, it's a visit to Åmot. Could that affluent sugar uncle kindly make an appearance soon? Storfjord Hotel : I have pondered at length how to encapsulate this hotel in a few words, and I believe "Rustic Luxury" does it justice. Firstly, the entire hotel exudes the aroma of wood, one of my absolute favorite scents. The rooms and suites are tastefully adorned with muted colors, exquisite textiles, and untreated walls, lending Storfjord Hotel an exceptional allure. You can comfortably appear at breakfast in your Dale of Norway sweater and then spend the entire day outdoors in the breathtaking surroundings. Moreover, the restaurant is truly a masterpiece, arguably the finest in the wide vicinity. Trevarefabrikken : A now-iconic cultural institution situated in the heart of the Arctic region. The rough edges of the rugged fishing existence have been honed and transformed into an exceptional abode. The location alone is undeniably spectacular, but equally noteworthy is the vision the founders had in developing this old wood workshop. Here, you don't immerse yourself in ostentatious luxury; instead, you delve into the heritage of a region intimately connected to the weather, tides, and harsh climate. The sense of community among people in Northern Norway differs significantly from that in major cities like Oslo and Stavanger. This distinction becomes apparent the moment you set foot over the threshold, where you are embraced by a heritage entwined with the elements and a rugged environment. Amerikalinjen : Ask any random European, and undoubtedly, you'll be regaled with a tale of a family member who, a few generations back, escaped poverty and embarked on the journey to America. My great-uncle, for instance, left the bulb region in the Netherlands to start a farm somewhere in Missouri. Never heard from him again. Norway, too, did not escape this dance. In contrast to its current prosperity, Norway was a bit of Europe's underdog until the 1960s. This led to entire villages emptying as people boarded ships in pursuit of fortune and happiness. Amerikalinjen is named after this exodus. It is an extraordinarily beautiful hotel, exuding a grandeur rarely encountered in contemporary times. The cocktail bar is truly a work of art where bartenders took masters degrees in cocktail shaking, and the cellar frequently hosts jazz gigs. Hardanger Fjord Lodge : If I were to provide a description of what precisely constitutes a boutique hotel, I would point you directly to the Hardanger Lodge. The enchanting surroundings, the intimacy, and the tastefully rustic decor impart the sensation of stepping into a parallel world where time dances to a different rhythm. The level of attention devoted to details here evokes thoughts of Japanese dedication. It is a kind of rustic bubble in which you find yourself. If your sojourn in Norway commences here, thereafter, not much can really go amiss. Tuddal Høyfjellshotell : Every evening at 19:00, a meticulously crafted four-course dinner is promptly served, uniting all guests in the dining hall simultaneously. This ritual imparts a uniquely special ambiance, allowing one to pause and observe their fellow patrons, gaining a profound sense of the community within the hotel. The service is truly extraordinary, brimming with enthusiasm and unwavering dedication. You experience a genuine sense of being seen and valued. The culinary offerings center around locally sourced ingredients, evident in the flavors that come to life on the plate. Anticipate no avant-garde culinary experimentation; instead, relish beautifully executed, honest dishes that captivate the palate. It feels as though you have entered a cinematic scene, reminiscent, perhaps, of "The Grand Budapest Hotel," albeit set in the picturesque backdrop of Norway. Eilert Smith Hotel : While the exterior manifests functionality, stepping inside transports you immediately to the splendor of mid-century design. This appears to be a nod to the era when Stavanger, whether consciously or unconsciously, prospered. Regardless, in terms of hospitality, the Eilert Smith Hotel stands head and shoulders above the rest in Stavanger. This distinction doesn't solely arise from the elegance of the rooms and communal spaces. The staff also possesses a keen understanding of what guests anticipate when selecting such a hotel for their stay. Truly, everything is orchestrated to ensure your sojourn is as delightful as possible, all delivered with a kind of innate elegance (a skill I'd be eager to master). Dalen Hotel : What lingers today is a hotel adorned with an ambiance and aristocratic allure that stands unrivaled in Norway. A majestic entrance, substantial leather armchairs, and meticulously hand-printed wallpaper. The artistry displayed in all the woodwork alone is nothing short of breathtaking. Offering a variety of rooms and suites, each exudes the same regal charm. If the choice were mine, the Dalen Suite would be the epitome of romance, making it, without a doubt, the most romantic hotel in Telemark, if not the entirety of Norway. Even if you opt to lodge elsewhere, it's still worthwhile to park the car momentarily and indulge in a glance. Høyvarde Fyr Hotel : 'Fyr' can signify two things in Norwegian; 'boy' or 'lighthouse.' In this instance, it, of course, refers to the latter. Yes, you read it correctly; you can stay here. But only in July. It doesn't get much more exclusive than this. Keep in mind that this is no ordinary hotel where you casually stroll in and ring the reception bell. So do get in touch with them beforehand. Herangtunet : If you're in search of a distinctive retreat in the Valdres Nature and Culture Park, Herangtunet Boutique Hotel is the place to be. Personally, I haven't spent a night there (my in-laws have a cabin nearby), so I don't have a direct experience, but I took a stroll around and was utterly captivated. The interior exudes a robust grandeur with suites in various styles and themes. And just take a look at the location! I envision myself with a blanket draped over me, beside a campfire, holding a mug of hot chocolate. Absolutely stunning. Additionally, they offer an array of activities that immediately elucidate why I fell head over heels for Norway. Are you already in love? Or on the brink of it? Book a night or two. You'll leave as a different person. Energi Hotellet : The rooms at Energi Hotellet are, in fact, the antithesis of everything you've encountered so far. Minimalistic, pristine, and immaculate. Energi Hotellet is a gem of 1960s architecture, initially intended for the employees of the hydroelectric power plant. It still serves that purpose, but the hotel has undergone a subtle metamorphosis. Additionally, there's a strong emphasis on local ingredients, resulting in relatively simple yet overwhelmingly delicious dishes. For dog enthusiasts, your four-legged companion is welcome. The reason to book here extends beyond the hotel itself. It's the panoramic view that unfolds from all 14 rooms, showcasing the breathtaking surroundings! I wrote a seperate article about the place. Hotel 1904 : Ålesund is an elegant Art Nouveau town. Exactly that elegance can be found at Hotel 1904. I always find it a bit complicated to use superlatives like 'the best' or 'the most beautiful' when I'm not talking about my girlfriend. So, I tread carefully. This is one of the most beautiful and elegant hotels in all of Norway. Quite nuanced, wouldn't you agree? In earlier stories, I hinted that I used to work as an interior designer. I can confidently say that I have a kind of professional eye for interior spaces. What immediately catches my attention are the materials used; not just the curtains but also the skirting boards and the floor. Then comes composition and lighting. But, I won't bore you with that. If you value beautifully designed spaces even a little, book a few nights here. Especially during the darker months, this place is an oasis of perfectly crafted contemporary coziness. I walked in this summer out of curiosity, precisely because of what I just described. I was impressed, as well as by the staff, who welcomed me with understated warmth, despite the fact that I had a huge backpack on my back and was wearing flip-flops. Not exactly the typical attire for the clientele that usually populates the lobby here. All in all, I didn't stay overnight because it's not budget-friendly for a simple blogger like me. But the beds probably rank among the best you can sleep in in Norway.
- Drink: if you don't see it, doesn't mean it's not there (pssst, it's a hidden bar in Oslo)
Nestled in the heart of the capital lies a peculiar stretch of street. For some inexplicable reason, this patch of asphalt has become a sort of clubhouse for the heroin addicts that inhabit the city. Allow me the occasion to advocate a bit for them. Often, they appear disheveled, shabby-looking and burdened with plastic bags containing dubious contents. Yet, it is essential to recognize that most of them have merely fallen on hard times—whether due to whatever life has to throw at some of them or a party that spiraled out of control, leading to unfortunate consequences. My point is this: they are not criminals; they suffer from drug addiction and bear the weight of an image problem. The fact that they still roam the streets of Oslo speaks to the Norwegian state's commitment to caring for its sick citizens in various ways. Unlike many other cities, an addict here will not beg for money. The reason I bring this up is that as you stroll through the heart of Oslo on your way to my next recommendation, you will undoubtedly come across a few (heroin) addicts. I hope that you may look upon them with a slightly different perspective and, above all, not be afraid. I would be delighted to guide you to Prindsen Hage , a hidden outdoor bar in Oslo. In essence, it resembles a beer garden you might find in Berlin. The only difference is that you won't see any conspicuous signage advertising its presence, save for a very small sidewalk board that is sometimes there, and sometimes not. Moreover, the surrounding buildings entirely obscure your view, making it improbable to stumble upon Prindsen Hage at all. Yet, once you step inside, you'll understand the rationale behind this secrecy. It is never overcrowded but always exudes a convivial atmosphere. Particularly on a delightful summer's day, it becomes an idyllic haven. You can bask in the sun or find ample shade. While others flock to the waterfront promenades on scorching days, this place offers a much more serene sanctuary. The ambiance is tranquil, complemented by pleasant music, truly evoking the sensation of being in a garden. There are about four food stalls where you can order Indian cuisine or pizzas, along with several bars serving delicious local beers or whatever has your fancy (mine is beer). The fact that such an expansive inner courtyard is preserved in the midst of such a costly location, right in the heart of the city, is, in my view, a testament to an idealistic approach to urban planning. *Keep in mind that Prindsen Hage is closed during the cold months!





























