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  • Hike: by train to the roof of Norway; hike from Finse to Dyranut

    It's a question I encounter quite frequently: Can one experience the breathtaking natural beauty of Norway without the aid of an automobile? Shortly said; is Norway by train a good idea? The answer is a resounding yes. I'll admit, I've given away the answer early, but allow me to now explain how you can embark on a remarkable nature adventure spanning 3-4 days from Oslo with no reliance on a car. However, a word of caution: embark on this journey well-prepared (and I'll touch on that later). Four years ago, I arrived here for the first time, and I was utterly overwhelmed by the stunning landscape. We arrived late in the afternoon, with the sun casting a golden hue over the entire valley as it began its descent. Anyway, plenty of sentiments here. To the point now. First and foremost, securing a seat reservation on the train known as the ' Bergens banen ' to Finse is essential. It takes a bit longer from Oslo, but within 4 hours, you'll reach your destination—or rather, the starting point of your hiking adventure. Do not underestimate the necessity of reservations; this train route tends to be fully booked at least a week in advance. The train journey to Finse takes around 4 hours. Finse itself is nothing more than a cluster of buildings. There's a hikers' hotel that hosts a jazz festival each year, an accommodation managed by the Norwegian Tourist Association, and a few holiday cottages and the like. Initially, it may feel quite peculiar... The history of Finse is quite intriguing. Around 1900, one of Norway's most ambitious infrastructure projects ever took place: the construction of a railway line from Oslo to Bergen through one of the most inhospitable terrains imaginable. Finse did not exist as a place back then, but accommodations were built for laborers, diggers, and contractors. The project spanned such a long period that it also gave rise to a bakery and several other shops. When the railway was completed in the new millennium (that's 1900), a hotel was opened next to the station. That hotel has remained in operation for the past 120 years, drawing tourists in all seasons. And the reason for its allure is not hard to discern. It's a remarkable place, firstly because there's a railway here, and secondly because you have a direct view of an impressive glacier. In summer, it's the perfect starting point for multi-day hikes, and in winter, it's ideal for snowboarding and kite-skiing. Every January, a small-scale jazz festival even takes place, which, as a devoted jazz enthusiast, greatly appeals to me (and I regret not having attended it yet). Anyway, this section was categorized under 'hike,' so let's get down to business. From Finse, you'll hike for about 2-3 days to reach Dyranut. I must say that the first leg can be quite challenging, with significant elevation changes, curves, and climbs. You wouldn't guess it from looking at the map, but the distances are indeed greater than they appear in this type of terrain. On the first day, you'll walk along the foothills of the Hardanger Jokulen. With the gradual melting of the large glaciers, we are likely among the last generations to witness this imposing natural phenomenon here. You can theoretically hike to Kjeldebu in one day, but it's approximately 17 kilometers on marked trails, which might be a bit far for inexperienced hikers. It's better to set up your tent near Skåltjørna, a beautiful lake at the base of the Hardangerjøkulen (massive glacier that is). The following day, after about 5 hours of hiking, you'll reach Dyranut . This is a roadside restaurant/inn along one of the main roads across the Hardangervidda. Here, you can catch your breath before taking the bus to Geilo. If you wish, you can also spend the night here. Purchase your bus tickets on skyss.no, and it's handy to download their app. Keep in mind that buses don't run very frequently here; in this case, only twice a day. For preparation on such hikes, several items are crucial. Of course, the obvious essentials like ample provisions, well-worn hiking boots , a sturdy backpack, and a warm sleeping bag are important. But also, bear in mind that you'll need the following on such trips: Waterproof jacket and trousers Lightweight windbreaker and hiking trousers with moisture-wicking properties Woolen or blended underwear with an extra set Wool socks with a snug fit and an extra pair Wool sweater or jacket, or a lightweight down jacket Lightweight tent (I always bring one, even though I'm planning to stay in cabins, just to be sure of shelter in case something might change, like the weather for example). A thin matress or underlay to seperate you from cold surfaces Woolen mittens or gloves that retain warmth when wet Lightweight sneakers (nice to have when your hiking boots are wet) Well-worn (!!!) hiking boots to prevent blisters Shorts and t-shirt made of wool or synthetic fibers for warmer weather A thermosflask, both for your morning coffee and to keep the water you drink from rivers nice and cool during warm days. Backpack with suitable volume Waterproof bag that fits inside the backpack (optional rain cover) Sleeping bag if camping; otherwise, a sleeping bag liner for DNT huts (even in midsummer, temperatures can drop at high altitudes) Power banks for charging devices First aid kit with blister plasters and sports tape Minimal toiletries and a small/lightweight towel (preferably biodegradable toothpaste) Toilet paper and an extra garbage bag (you will not find trashbins in the wildernis and dumping your rubbish  is an absolute no-go). Sunglasses and sunscreen Insect repellent/mosquito net Map, compass, and waterproof map case, or GPS device Multitool and duct tape Matches/lighter Compact headlamp/flashlight Cash/debit card DNT key Digital DNT membership card Provisions! Rather too many than too few! If you'd like to visit Finse but don't fancy camping or hiking, that's also an option. You can enjoy the same splendid view in all comfort. Book a night at Hotel Finse 1222 . So, there you have it—an adventure through the breathtaking Norwegian wilderness, accessible without a car, with the convenience of trains and the charm of hiking. Prepare well, and you're in for an unforgettable experience. Pinky swear!

  • Hike: the big-5; wildlife and animals you might (not want to) come across in Norway

    Depending on where you hail from, the flora and fauna (or wildlife) in Norway can appear rather exotic, and indeed they are. Here, you won't find the famed Big Five, but instead, you'll encounter a myriad of creatures that are unique to the Arctic region and seldom seen elsewhere in the world. In this article, I shall be delighted to enlighten you about them. Furthermore, I shall provide you with some valuable tips to enhance your chances of spotting these creatures and offer guidance on how to conduct yourself when encountering them. I'm naming a few of my favourites. The moose, often referred to as the 'king of the forest' in colloquial terms, symbolizes the northern realms of the world. Both Norway and Sweden vie for the moose as their emblem. Countless Swedish Volvos proudly display a sticker reminiscent of the Ferrari logo - a yellow background with a black moose. Likewise, the moose frequently appears in Norwegian symbolism, logos, tourist shops, and popular culture. Surprisingly, though, in daily life, one seldom glimpses them (unless one knows where to look). That's the thing about moose—they are challenging to spot, even though countless road signs warn of their crossings. They often stand still, blending into the forest with their gray-brown hue, rendering them nearly invisible. But I shall provide you with some moose-spotting tips. The prime time is typically early evening just before sunset when they often venture close to the forest edge to graze or drink. If you happen to be in a car, pay attention to open spaces and meadows surrounded by woods, as these offer the best chances of spotting one. If you are out backpacking, there's a chance you might encounter one as well. If that happens, exercise caution, especially if they have offspring, as they can be protective and may attempt to intimidate you by approaching or even charge in your direction. Maintain a safe distance, for they are neither domesticated nor pets. Therefore it's also advisable to carry a pocket-sized pair of binoculars . (A wise purchase in general, if it was only in order to study the o-so-good-looking Norwegians in their natural habitat.) Even though I live near the capital, I spot a moose at least twice a week. I often board the bus before 5:00 AM, driving from the valley where I reside through densely wooded areas to the city. Along one of the bends, there lies an expansive meadow where I frequently see a moose standing. I suspect the moose may be somewhat trapped between urban areas, making the best of its situation. I have also encountered them a few times near Sognsvann, a popular hiking area just outside the city. Thus, you need not venture deep into the wilderness to increase your chances of spotting one. If you wish to guarantee a moose sighting, you can visit Viltgården or Dyreparken in Kristiansand. The latter is highly recommended if you aspire to observe Arctic animals. Moreover, the enclosures are sufficiently spacious to provide the animals with an excellent living environment which can't be said about most zoo's. And then the reindeer. Another (mythical) symbol of the Arctic landscape, these enchanting creatures with impressively antlered heads inhabit nearly the entire Arctic region. Even in Southern Norway, a substantial herd resides in Setesdalvesthei. Valdres also boasts a noteworthy population. I can vividly recall a few years ago, in the heart of February, when I was in the Valdres mountains. It was a splendid winter day with fresh snow and soft, beautiful light. Suddenly, we heard a tinkling sound. We exchanged glances and initially wondered why there were bells ringing in the middle of winter. However, not long after, we caught sight of the first reindeer—an imposing alpha male. Shortly thereafter, a massive herd crossed our path. For twenty minutes, approximately 300 reindeer strolled by. It was a truly magical experience. Reindeer have adapted significantly to their environment, primarily because there is very little food available in winter. Apart from a bit of moss and some birch bark, there isn't much on their menu. Consequently, reindeer have a significantly lower heart rate to conserve the scarce energy they have at their disposal. Therefore, it is best to leave them undisturbed. Do not approach them, no matter how tempting it may be. And yes indeed, bears reside here as well. To put your mind at ease, their numbers are relatively low, numbering only in the thousands. Thus, the likelihood of encountering one is quite slim. However, if you decide to venture into the Norwegian wilderness bordering Sweden or explore the sparsely populated areas in the northern part of Norway, it is imperative to be well-prepared. Here are a few tips: Make regular noise either by singing the French national anthem loudly and repeatedly or use one of these bear-bells, and ensure you are attentive to your surroundings. The probability of a bear attacking you is not necessarily high, but when startled, they might feel threatened. When camping, use scents to signal your presence. Bears, as it turns out, strongly dislike human urine. If you have the opportunity, urinate into a container or bottle (I understand that this might be somewhat challenging for the opposite gender) and spread it in a large circle about twenty meters from your tent. It doesn't have to be a lot, but the goal is to ensure that the bear smells that humans are nearby. In most cases, this will cause them to take off. If you wish to be absolutely sure, you can order a canister of bear spray. And stuff your wood away properly. Anyway, if you'd like to get to know more, a Youtube rabbithole is waiting for you. Fun fact: Just one month prior to writing this piece, a bear was spotted in the middle of a field, less than 30 kilometers from Oslo . For those unfamiliar with lynx, it is a rather large cat with enormous, endearingly fluffy paws. I have never encountered one in the wild, as they are quite elusive. However, I did once come across their paw prints in the snow, which was excitement enough. The wolverine is in fact and endangered species with only a few hundred individuals left. Consequently, the likelihood of encountering one is exceedingly low. The Kristiansand Zoo houses one of these remarkable creatures, providing a highly impressive spectacle. Attempting to provide an exhaustive account of the various bird species inhabiting different regions is a monumental task due to their incredible diversity. However, I hold a deep fondness for birds. While it may be a stretch to call myself a birdwatcher, I come rather close. This passion has been with me since childhood when I knew all the bird names by heart and could recognize each birdcall. Though that knowledge has somewhat faded, I still become genuinely enthusiastic when encountering a rare species or a magnificent bird of prey. My personal favorite is the dipper, a tiny black-and-white bird that frequents fast-flowing streams where it finds its sustenance. I have seen one once, and that remains my sole encounter. It is a creature with very specific preferences and requirements, and in this regard, I can relate entirely. For all you birdlovers roaming the lands, this book holds a great bank of knowledge on Norwegian bird species. And then, of course, we have all the marine mammals, but I shall reserve a separate article for them since the quest to spot a whale or an orca can be a goal in itself. What else could you encounter? Mammals: Red Deer: Another prominent deer species, red deer are widespread in Norway's forests and mountains. Arctic Fox: This resilient and well-adapted species thrives in Norway's Arctic tundra. Gray Wolf: Though rare, gray wolves have been observed in parts of Norway. Badger: Found througout the entire country. Birds: White-tailed Eagle: Norway is home to one of the largest populations of these majestic eagles in Europe. Golden Eagle: These birds of prey inhabit the mountainous regions. Puffin: Found along the coastline, puffins are a favorite among birdwatchers. Common Eider: Coastal areas provide habitat for this sea duck. Capercaillie: A large woodland grouse species inhabiting the boreal forests. Snowy Owl: These striking owls occasionally visit Norway during the winter months. Marine Life: Atlantic Salmon: This iconic fish is native to Norwegian rivers and is prized by anglers. Cod: Abundant in the North Atlantic, cod is a staple in Norwegian cuisine. Humpback Whale: Norway's coastal waters are a prime location for whale watching, including humpbacks. Orcas: These apex predators can be spotted in Norwegian fjords. Seals: Both harbor seals and grey seals can be found along the Norwegian coast. These are just some of the diverse animal species that call Norway home. Norway's unique ecosystems and varied climate zones contribute to its rich biodiversity, making it an appealing destination for nature enthusiasts and conservation efforts alike. Go out and explore. And be kind to those beasts!

  • Destination: Drøbak; a taste of southern Norway within half an hour from Oslo

    The Sunday town. That is, more or less, the unofficial moniker that Drøbak has bestowed upon itself. This is primarily due to the abundance of independent and stylish shops that are open on Sundays. Yet, by doing so, Drøbak, positioned as one of the most picturesque villages near Oslo, does itself a disservice. Because Drøbak is worth a visit on weekdays too. My initial encounter was some five years ago. It was early April, with temperatures just a few degrees above freezing, and a dense mist draped over the Oslo Fjord. At first glance, this might not appear to be an alluring setting, but the opposite is true. Drøbak exudes charm in every aspect, all year 'round. The history of Drøbak is nothing short of captivating. It acquired trading rights in the 19th century, a feat remarkable for a place of its modest size. This was owing to the fact that the Oslo Fjord would often freeze near Drøbak, making it one of the few viable locations for cargo ships to unload. Furthermore, being one of the narrowest stretches of the Oslo Fjord, it facilitated crossing on ice in times past. Additionally, Drøbak held strategic importance in the defense of Oslo, with the grand Oscarsborg fortress and several sunken German warships serving as imposing testament to its significance. Nevertheless, let us set aside this historical narrative for the moment. The principal allure of Drøbak lies in its exceedingly charming center, predominantly adorned with old wooden houses boasting colourful facades. It evoked reminiscences of the enchanting coastal villages found in southern Norway, which I recently wrote an article on . While exploration of Drøbak is best experienced firsthand, I do have a few recommendations of places not to miss! Firstly, who can resist the allure of coffee table books? It may seem somewhat arbitrary, but as the obvious name suggests, Coffee Table Books is solely dedicated to these visual 'symbols of portrayed status'. A very charming little shop it itself. However, the main reason I'm sending you here lies in the quality of the coffee. It is, quite unequivocally, the finest in Drøbak. It really is! Housed within one of Drøbak's oldest edifices is an immensely charming lunch café & winebar , perfectly primed for Instagram-worthy moments. The façade, constructed of bright red-painted wooden panels, has acquired a gentle slant over time. Inside, a crackling fireplace lends a cosy ambiance. Mind your head, particularly if, like me, you stand close to 1.90 meters tall! I heartily recommend the fish soup; it is truly delish! At the Follo Museum , one immerses oneself in the rich tapestry of local culture and history (especially fun for kids). Beyond the standard exhibitions, a myriad of events is hosted. Of particular note is the guided tour through Drøbak led by one of the museum's knowledgeable guides. Drøbak also serves as a culinary haven, particularly for enthusiasts of traditional Norwegian dishes. Look no further than Kumlegården for a taste of authenticity. While I shan't delve into the intricacies of Norwegian cuisine, it suffices to say that comfort food reigns supreme. Kumlegården excels in presenting traditional dishes such as pinekjøtt, rakfisk, and kumler, amidst an ambiance that exudes Norwegian charm. The service, too, is impeccable. Should you desire lodgings in Drøbak, options are somewhat limited, as it tends to be more of a day-trip destination. However, if you elect to pitch camp just beyond Oslo's periphery, I have a splendid recommendation for you: this holiday home . Nestled amidst scenic splendour, its unparalleled vistas surpass those of any hotel in the vicinity.

  • Destination: if I had one day...to visit Finnmark (Arctic Norway)

    Every now and then, we encounter those seemingly unattainable queries: What if you had only a single day to make the most of? What if you were granted millionaire status for a fleeting moment? Yet, when the context shifts to arctic Norway, this introspective exercise doesn't seem quite as outlandish. So, let's embark on this mental exploration without hesitation. If I were to find myself with a solitary day in Norway's embrace, it's safe to say that I would eagerly set forth along one of the country's renowned national tourist routes, specifically, the one traversing Varanger. My reference to this more remote path isn't intended to complicate matters more than I have to; rather, it's due to the unfortunate oversight that this may well be one of the most obscure and underestimated national tourist routes—unjustly so, regardless of its geographical seclusion. The journey would start in Varangerbotn, and the road would gracefully lead to Hamningberg. The simplicity of this route is truly striking. However, anticipate making frequent stops en route, about thirty of them, as you'll find yourself irresistibly drawn to halt the car, your jaw hanging in sheer awe, as the landscape unfolds before your eyes, leaving you humbled by its beauty. Finnmark stands as a distinct realm on its own. Both for its people and its landscape. While I don't particularly adhere to religious beliefs (not at all in fact), let's entertain for a moment the possibility that the narrative of a biblical creation offers a plausible hypothesis for our planet's origin. Picture, if you will, the notion that fragments of landscape remained scattered in various corners—a handful of sand dunes, a pair of imposing basalt cliffs, a smattering of pebble-strewn shores, a slice of tundra, expanses of sandstone, and so on. These remnants, it would seem, were masterfully employed to craft the entire northeastern coastline of Finnmark. The captivating tapestry of diverse terrains, each with its own character, unfolds as a testament to nature's artistry (that on the other hand, I am a strong believer of). Every inlet and peninsula reveals a unique countenance, a true celebration of the natural world. This visual symphony also accompanies the Varanger tourist route. Yet, what lends an enchanting quality to these national tourist routes is the fact that the Norwegian authorities have extended invitations to architects, tasking them with designing essential amenities—restroom facilities, panoramic viewpoints, and inviting seating areas—thoughtfully situated at strategic points along the route. These havens are discreetly indicated by this logo on adorning roadside signs, serving as beacons for those traversing these paths. Allow me to assure you, without reservation, that each pause taken here is an investment yielding abundant rewards. Not trying to be grotesque here. It is what it is. I'll refrain from delving too deeply into the experiences you'll encounter on your voyage; those are best savoured firsthand. Nevertheless, I do intend to dedicate several separate posts to unveil tips and recommendations for those intending to visit Finnmark. Those you will stumble upon when using the tag 'Finnmark'. And so, I reiterate: should you find yourself with a mere day to spare in Norway, embark on a national tourist route—particularly the one meandering through Varanger. Keen to spend the night in the region? Consider the Kongsfjord Arctic Lodge or the Jakobselv Kaia . **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Kirkenes Airport (KKN) since there's direct flights from Oslo. From there it is most wise to reserve a rental car (long) in advance. Charging stations are rather scarce in this outpost of the world, so in this case rather rent a petrol car. Check here for availability.

  • Destination: the Borgund stave church, and 7 more stave churches for your bucketlist

    If you're here for the list, scroll straight down. Might you be keen on a small history lesson; hold the line! The notion that Christianity pioneered the art of marketing holds some truth. Globally, the unconventional church gained ground by interweaving local folklore, myths, and symbols with Christian elements, facilitating the conversion of local populations. This trend was not exclusive to Scandinavia, where the rugged landscapes of Norway gave rise to a distinctive approach to church construction. The wooden structures, named for their unique vertical posts or "staves," were once prevalent across northwestern Europe. With steep roofs adorned by dragon heads and intricate carvings, stave churches reflected a fusion of Christian and Norse pagan influences. Stave construction, characterized by vertical wooden columns connected by horizontal elements, defined these churches. While the extensive use of wood posed preservation challenges, it also contributed to their aesthetic appeal. The roofs, often steeply pitched with overhanging eaves, featured decorative ridge ornaments and dragon heads, adding a touch of Norse mythology. Elaborate carvings on portals depicted religious scenes, mythological figures, and intricate patterns. Some stave churches adopted a cruciform floor plan with multiple naves, enhancing their visual and symbolic significance. During the early Middle Ages, stave churches flourished in Scandinavia, particularly in Norway, serving as places of worship and community gatherings. Most existing Norwegian stave churches were built between 1150 and 1350. It's estimated that as many as 1000-2000 stave churches were constructed during the medieval period, likely found in nearly every village in Norway. In contrast, only 271 stone churches were built during the same period, with 160 remaining today. Comparatively, Sweden boasts 900 and Denmark 1800 medieval stone churches. Provisions in the Frostating Law and Gulathing Law suggest that stave construction was the norm, despite the Catholic Church's preference for stone. Before the Reformation, all wooden churches were constructed using stave techniques, with only one or two small churches possibly built with timber framing. Timber framing, introduced around the year 1000, was a younger technique in Norway than stave construction. Stave construction remained largely unaffected by timber framing techniques. The majority of stave churches were situated in less populated areas, such as mountain valleys, forested regions, fishing villages on islands, and smaller fjords. Stone churches were prevalent in cities, along the coast, in wealthy agricultural areas, and in the largest church parishes in fjords on the Vestlandet. Few new churches were built in Norway during the 1400s and 1500s. By the mid-1700s, most Norwegian stave churches had disappeared, replaced by churches constructed with timber framing. Some stave churches underwent modifications or expansions in the 1600s and 1700s, such as the conversion of Flesberg Stave Church into a cruciform church with a timber framing extension. Fires, storms, avalanches, decay, and the need for larger spaces led to the demolition of most stave churches to make way for new constructions. In 1650, around 270 stave churches remained in Norway, but 136 disappeared in the following century. By 1800, 95 stave churches still stood, and over 200 former stave churches were known by name or through written sources. From 1850 to 1885, 32 stave churches were lost, with only Fantoft Stave Church disappearing since then. If you've been following my previous blog posts, you may have read about Luster and its surroundings, home to the Urnes Stave Church. Regarded as the oldest preserved stave church in Norway, it was constructed around 1130, potentially incorporating parts from the 11th century. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its original stave construction and intricate carvings, blending Christian and Norse motifs, offer a glimpse into medieval wooden architecture. Despite its diminutive size, it sparks a wealth of imagination. There are approximately 180 standing stave churches today, with the following list featuring the most prominent ones. I added links to Google-maps for easy location marking in anticipation of your epic road-trip through Norway ;). Urnes Stave Church : Ornes, Luster municipality - Oldest preserved stave church with intricate carvings blending Christian and Norse motifs. Borgund Stave Church : Borgund, Laerdal municipality - Well-preserved with a distinctive triple nave design, dragon heads, and decorative carvings. Heddal Stave Church : Notodden municipality - Largest stave church in Norway, featuring an impressive size and intricate carvings. Kaupanger Stave Church : Sogndal municipality - Modest in design but historically significant, dating back to the 12th century. Hopperstad Stave Church : Vik municipality - Richly decorated portal and intricate carvings, dating back to the 12th century. Gol Stave Church : Gol municipality - Reconstruction showcasing a blend of stave church and Gothic architectural styles. Torpo Stave Church : Aal municipality - Reflects medieval origins and preservation efforts, with influences of both stave church and Gothic styles. Lom Stave Church : Lom municipality - Unique combination of Romanesque and Gothic elements, one of the largest stave churches in Norway. When going to Lom, have a look at the article I wrote previously . If you find yourself in Oslo, you also have the opportunity to see a stave church. In the late 1800s, the stave church from Gol was deconstructed and resurrected in what is now the Norwegian Folk Museum on Bygdøy, Oslo.

  • Stay: wooden dwellings for lovebirds: a stay in Valdres natur- og kulturpark

    Old places have something special. I can't quite describe it, but perhaps a soul? It is certainly a fascinating idea that people have lived and experienced their lives in certain places for hundreds of years. Vasetstølen is no exception, and I think that's why it appealed to me so much when I first visited. In the 16th century, Vasetstølen was a summer farm where the cattle could graze on fresh grass and herb-rich vegetation somewhere right in the middle of the Valdres area. Especially in autumn, when nature begins to change colors, it is a gift to enter here after a long walk. The fireplace crackles, and a bowl of rømmegrøt warms you up. Do not expect refined cuisine here, but rather dishes based on tradition. This place is particularly worth visiting for those who want to experience the simplicity of classic Norwegian farm life. If you are looking for a special place to stay in Valdres natur- og kulturpark, I have a wonderful recommendation for you: Herangtunet Boutique Hotel in Heggenes. I have never slept there myself (my inlaws have a cabin nearby) so in that sense I do not have any skin in the game, but I once looked around and I was completely overwhelmed. The interior has a kind of rugged grandeur with suites in various styles and themes. And just look at the location! I can picture myself with a blanket on my lap, next to a bonfire with a hot coco in my hand. Absolutely stunning. Additionally, they offer all sorts of activities that will immediately make you understand why I completely fell for Norway. In any case, are you in love? Or about to? Book a night or two. You’ll leave a different person. By the way, the surroundings of both Vasetstølen and Herangtunet are stunningly beautiful. There are numerous beautiful hiking trails, and if you feel like picking blueberries or mushrooms, the lower-lying forests are a goldmine. Here, you also have a good chance of encountering reindeer. I have seen a large herd pass by multiple times in the area, both in winter and summer. It's good to know that you shouldn't get too close to them. Especially not in winter. They have a lower heart rate during that time to conserve energy and might not run away if you approach them. But that doesn't mean they don't get stressed. So keep your distance, ok? All in all, a stay in the Valdres area is like food for your soul. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Oslo Airport (OSL). Public transport really takes forever to get you there, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Destination: the king's speech; lunch on Bygdøy

    When you take a glance at Google Maps, it becomes apparent in no time. A lot of woodland, ginormously expensive houses, and some charming beaches. The abundance of museums in the area is hard to miss as well. And don't get me wrong, go ahead and visit them all. Bygdøy is truly a splendid spot to while away a day. But immersing yourself in culture and gawking at posh villas can work up an appetite. Now, here's where it gets intriguing because I have an impossible choice for you. A picturesque botanical greenhouse or a tiny island without a road access, requiring a boat trip to reach it. First and foremost, let's talk about the greenhouse: Kongsgården Gartneriet Café . As the name implies, it's part of the property owned by the Norwegian royal family... or something like that. Now, I'm not necessarily a fervent fan of monarchies, but if I had to choose, it would be the Norwegian one. The best speech ever delivered by a monarch came from the Norwegian king . It gives me goosebumps just reminiscing about it. Anyway, let's return to Kongsgården Gartneriet Café. First things first, I highly recommend going there on a regular weekday, slightly past midday. The waiting time can get a bit lengthy on weekends. It won't come as a surprise that most of their delectable dishes are crafted using locally grown vegetables and fruits. The flavors are sublime, and the location is equally splendid yet utterly inconspicuous. Whether you spot it on Google Maps or happen to stumble upon it, it blends seamlessly into its surroundings. If you happen to have an insatiable craving for fish and chips or succulent shrimp, Bygdøy might not be the ideal spot. Instead, go to Lille Herbern . You'll have to hop on a tiny ferry from Bygdøy, which takes a mere one minute to whisk you away to a dock. From there, a stroll of a few minutes will lead you to an enchanting little cottage with a vibrant terrace. Sailors, hikers, and couples on romantic rendezvous gather here for a bite and a sip. It's an atmosphere of carefree joy, and their fish and chips are the bomb. The choice is yours: a verdant haven inside a greenhouse fit for a fairy tale, or a hidden gem on a secluded island. Whichever path you choose, culinary delights and captivating experiences await in Bygdøy. Aye!

  • Stay: Energihotellet; both James Bond and hike-enthousiasts feel at home here

    For somewhat dubious reasons, I recently found myself in Haugesund. Due to a significant disruption to my travel schedule, which resulted in a day's delay, I regrettably had no time to explore Haugesund. Therefore, you can expect an article from me about this illustrious place on the west coast of the country at a later date. Anyway, the plan was to drive back to my hometown from Haugesund, a journey that could be completed in one day, but would entail approximately seven hours in the car, which seemed rather long. Thus, I sought out a charming hotel to spend the night midway. A particular hotel had long been on my bucket list, not only for its location and architecture but also because the new owners had revitalized the place in an exceptional manner. It seemed fitting to dedicate a brief article to it. After reading, you will have: Numerous reasons why a stay at Energihotellet will elevate your Norwegian holiday Local attractions you should not leave unseen Why visit Energihotellet Energihotellet is rather isolated, which is immediately a significant plus. A glance at the map reveals a vast lake, one of the largest in the Rogaland region, winding narrow roads, and towering mountains. This is no coincidence. The hotel formerly housed temporary workers from the nearby hydroelectric plant, and sometimes still does. Speaking of the hydroelectric plant, it was constructed in the early 1960s, designed by Geir Grung, a Norwegian architect. The building has a somewhat brutalist aesthetic, evoking a James Bond-esque atmosphere. And I am sure I'm not the first one to notice. Mysterious installations in such settings always give me the impression that a helicopter could land at any moment, carrying some eccentric villain accompanied by dubious bodyguards heading towards the hydroelectric plant entrance to conduct some shady business in order to reset the world order. To the point: the hotel itself is not located within the hydroelectric plant but just above it. The design of both the building and the interior is a beautiful synthesis of functionalism, minimalism, and mid-century design. The new owners have added a delightful twist without compromising the original character. Much of it remains in its original state, significantly enhancing the overall experience. What I truly appreciated was the manner in which the food was served. Firstly, the breakfast. As a modern human, I have, to put it mildly, a certain aversion to buffets. The amount of food wasted is one symptom of an unsustainable system that disrupts the planet's livability. Energihotellet understands this. Here, no buffet but an excellently curated plate with delicious fruits, vegetables, scrambled eggs, smoked salmon, and various other toppings. Additionally, there was freshly homemade bread. Forget about those continental breakfast spreads with 10 types of bread, countless varieties of cold cuts, eggs prepared in six different ways, and numerous other unnecessary items. This is all you need to start your day fully satisfied. The dinner was equally excellent. It’s not haute cuisine, but the dishes are beautifully presented and predominantly feature local products. All very tasteful. Speaking of local products, they have a fantastic selection of apple ciders, one of Norway's globally renowned beverages receiving more and more recognition recently. Ask for a bottle of Humlepung, and for non-Norwegians, do ask to get an explanation of the name! Do it! Now that you have a bit of an idea of what to expect, here’s a brief summary of why you won’t regret spending a night here: Attentative staff: informal, helpful, and cheerful A rather stunning setting with a fantastic view Use and promotion of local products, adding to the unique character of the place and the hotel An excellent sauna you can book. As a great sauna enthusiast, I was immediately excited. Moreover, the view from the sauna is as spectacular as from the hotel. A feeling of intimacy and authenticity. They're part of 'De Historiske Hotell', a series of exceptional hotels known for their charm and originality. That says it all, doesn't it. The surroundings As should be clear by now, the hotel is situated in a wonderful area perfect for nature lovers and outdoor activities. The hotel’s car park provides direct access to several hiking trails, and the possibilities in the immediate vicinity are endless. Additionally, the hotel is located on the countryroad ‘13’ road leading to Røldal, offering postcard-like landscapes with snowy peaks, green valleys, spectacular waterfalls, and picturesque, ancient farms. This stretch of road is part of the legendary Ryfylke National Tourist Road , a must if you decide to vacation in this area. My favourite stop along this route is Allmannajuvet, part of an old silver mine. Recently, several evocative architectural structures designed by none other than Peter Zumthor have been erected here, which are well worth a visit. Nesflaten itself, where the hotel is located, is a tiny village. To give you an idea of its size: it has a primary school with a total of 25 students and often less, including toddlers, preschoolers, and children under 12. Speaking of which, years ago, a boy at this school chose to start a small shop as his project, which part of the Norwegian school system's practical or theoretical subject requirement. This shop still exists but is now run by a former teacher from this very school. Products come from all over the world: Nepal, South Africa, and, of course, Norway. Even if you’re not interested in beautiful handmade products, it’s almost a duty to Nesflaten to have a chat with the former teacher — truly a woman of the world!

  • Destination: Heroes of Telemark; The hidden gems of Norway's enigmatic region

    Many travelers to Norway have traversed the route from Oslo to the spectacular fjord landscapes of the west coast. This journey takes you through an expansive, mountainous, and forested area that remains rather underappreciated on many itineraries: Telemark. In this article, I aim to highlight a few spots that you might ordinarily pass by, but which are almost obligatory stops when crossing this region. By the end of this article, I hope you will understand that Telemark is a destination in its own right. You will at least know: Where to find the most spectacular views A secret museum hidden in the forest The most unique and spectacular hotels in Telemark The best bread and the tastiest buns in Telemark, and possibly in Norway Let's start with something to tantalize your taste buds for the journey. The very best cinnamon buns, skoleboller, and other treats are to be found at Mjonøy . I pulled over here on a Sunday afternoon and was astounded. First, the location is enchanting. A collection of ancient buildings, the sound of a broad river, numerous picnic tables, hammocks, and the chirping of birds create an idyllic setting. And then there are the buns. They are freshly baked throughout the day in a wood-fired oven. Yes, you read that right. A wood-fired oven. In one of the small buildings, they are beautifully displayed. The shop is unmanned, meaning you help yourself, calculate the cost, and leave your money behind. Norwegians use VIPPS, a payment app requiring a Norwegian ID number. Foreign visitors pay in cash, so ensure you have some kroner with you. The buns cost around 40 NOK each, which is very reasonable considering the quality compared to what you might find at a typical petrol station. This way of trading epitomizes Norwegian society, which is built on trust. I hope you appreciate how special this is and respect it accordingly. Moreover, you can rent wonderfully cozy cottages here. So, if you're tired of driving and prefer to continue your journey the next day, don't hesitate to spend the night in a lovely bed where you can hear the river murmuring in the background. An art museum in an unexpected place Within walking distance of the picturesque Mjonøy, you will find a very special building. The Smørklepp Art Museum in Vinje, Telemark, Norway, houses over 40 paintings by Henrik Sørensen and works by Harald Kihle. Sørensen, known for his lyrical depictions and expressive landscapes of Telemark, studied under Matisse and created public decorations. Kihle was renowned for his paintings of folk life and nature in Telemark, often featuring horses. From the summer of 2023, the Sørensenhytta hut near the museum will display original furniture by Sørensen. A walking path from Mjonøy leads to the museum. It is well worth the visit, offering an exceptional opportunity to admire exquisite art depicting Telemark, right in the heart of Telemark. The little brother of Preikestolen no one knows about I might be guilty of a bit of clickbait, but as I've heard, that happens often on the internet. Nonetheless, I am not exaggerating when I say this place tested my fear of heights, and my stomach responded immediately. Near Åmot, you can take the turn onto Ravnejuvveg. After a short drive, you park by a sign indicating the spot; Ravnejuv . Then, in just five minutes, you reach a breathtaking viewpoint. You stand on a cliff, and when you look over the edge, your gaze plunges 350 meters straight down. While this place has nothing to do with Preikestolen, you understand the comparison. Even Napoleon Bonaparte is said to have gazed into the depths here. The best part? Almost no one knows about this spectacular location, so you might have it all to yourself. The (real) heroes of Telemark I alluded to them in the title, but in a different context. The heroes of Telemark were a group of Norwegian commandos who performed remarkable sabotage actions during World War II to thwart the Germans' plans to develop an atomic bomb. If you want to learn more about this, feel free to watch the film . My point here is that all this took place in and around Rjukan, where a heavy water plant was located. Rjukan is a place where you can easily spend a day or two. I highly recommend spending a night at the Tuddal Høyfjellshotell . This legendary yet intimate mountain hotel left an indelible impression on me. The building itself is like a Norwegian version of Alice in Wonderland, filled with curiosities and historical artifacts, with every step on the wooden stairs causing a creaking sound. The service is so exceptionally charming and good that I hope you treat yourself to waking up here. The best view in Telemark Just a stone's throw from the aforementioned hotel lies one of the most remarkable hikes in the province. Gaustatoppen is a mountain rising 1,883 meters above sea level and offering a spectacular view over about one-sixth of mainland Norway(!!!). On a clear day, you can see nearly half of southern Norway from the top, making it a fantastic place for a hike. For those who prefer not to hike, there is the Gaustabanen , a unique cable car that takes you to the top in just 15 minutes. The cable car, which started as a tourist project in 1953, was later financed by NATO and used for military purposes for 50 years. It’s about a two-hour drive from Oslo. End the day in a sauna Norway has experienced a renaissance of sauna culture over the past decade. While it has always been popular, the number of public saunas scattered across the country has increased significantly, and Telemark is no exception. If you're vacationing in this region, you're in luck, as there are several spectacular saunas available for a nominal fee. Heit Telemark Soria Moria Sauna Gaustablikk Sauna The most unique and spectaculair hotels in the Telemark If you're on a road trip, chances are you've rented a camper or are camping, which is fantastic. However, if possible, I highly recommend spending at least one night in one of the following hotels. I have been fortunate enough to stay at a few of these places, and I must say that all these stays have left an indelible impression on me. This is largely due to the fantastic locations, but even more so because of the exceptional hospitality and immense charm these hotels exude. A small selection: Dalen Hotel Tuddal Høyfjellshotell Rjukan Admini Hotel Tollboden Hotel This modest article certainly does not do justice to the entire region, as there is so much to discover in Telemark. However, I hope my personal experiences have given you a little guidance to start your endevour! Godspeed!

  • Destination: Stokkøya Strandhotell; a rather joyous resort close to Trondheim

    I spent two nights at the Stokkøya Strandhotell , and it was an unforgettable experience. Although I rarely dedicate an article to merely a stay, in this instance, it would be a disservice to the hotel and its location to mention it only in passing. For numerous reasons, Stokkøya Strandhotell is a destination in its own right. With this modest little article I hope to: Convince you that spending at least two nights here will be unforgettable if you are travelling through Norway (forget about any hotel chains). Tell you about what it is that makes Stokkøya Strandhotell so exceptional. Allow me to begin with a small anecdote that, in my opinion, symbolises island life and the philosophy with which Stokkøya Strandhotell is, or seems to be currently operated. And for this anecdote, we must journey back in time. Immediately after Norway gained independence, the country experienced a period of prohibition, which sparked a lively smuggling trade. It was the fishermen who excelled in evading customs officers and smuggling significant quantities of alcohol. The story goes that one of these fishermen on Stokkøya discovered a stash of alcohol clearly meant for someone else but never collected. In those days, this find was likely worth a small fortune, which might have meant he could leave his hard life as a fisherman behind. However, instead of selling the alcohol, the fisherman decided to invite his comrades, fellow fishermen, and island residents for a celebration. It must have taken some time for the stash to be depleted, but one thing is certain – not a single crown was earned from the find. And as I imagine it, the entire island must have woken up with a colossal hangover. Perhaps this island-attitude to life captures the essence of Stokkøya, or at least that of the hotel, its staff, and its residents. Your Stay What makes this location so brilliant is that virtually everyone can enjoy it. By this, I mean both a very diverse demographic and people with different budgets. You can rent a complete holiday home with a group of friends and enjoy a magnificent view over the stunning bay (not within my budget) or book a fantastic hotel room furnished with Scandinavian design classics from both Louis Poulsen and IKEA. As a former interior designer, I chose the latter and was pleasantly surprised by the inventive simplicity of the design and layout of the room. From the innovative way the the ventilation system is 'packed away' to the shower controls and the amazing concrete skylight above the bed. Additionally, it is delightful that you have your own small patio where you can enjoy an ice-cold beer in the evening sun. Speaking of architecture and design, the vision of the architectural firm Pir II was to create such intriguing architecture that people would become more interested in moving to this remote municipality. Because Norway is so vast, some small towns sometimes struggle to maintain their population levels. This strategy appears to be working remarkably well, if only because it provided me with a reason to visit Stokkøya that I otherwise would not have had. Back to your stay. If you have a different type of trip in mind, you can rent a beautiful glamping tent right on the beachfront for a fraction of the price of a hotel room. The sound of the sea is truly the most relaxing way to drift off to sleep. Additionally, there is a fairly large field with space for at least 20 tents. This is the beauty of this place. It is not merely an exclusive compound where only the wealthiest of types stare each other down for whatever petty reason, as can sometimes be the case in the Norwegian capital. Here, different rules apply, and I greatly appreciate that. The staff is largely to credit for this atmosphere. Without exception, every individual here is incredibly friendly. I tend to believe that everyone who works here also wants to be here. The reception, the service, the cook, and the cleaners – I have rarely encountered such a relaxed, friendly, and helpful group of individuals. For the hospitality enthusiasts: I received a text message asking wether or not I was interested in reserving a table at the restaurant since there was a chance it would be fully booked due to increasing demand. That is customer service 2.0; you are assisted before you even knew you needed it. Food and Drinks Stokkøya is a relatively remote island. But it is 2024. So, it has never been easier to have virtually anything delivered to your doorstep at a moment’s notice. But what perhaps typifies island life, as when you arrive for breakfast here, it is immediately noticeable that almost everything is locally produced and, in many cases, homemade. And it goes far. This morning, I spread homemade chocolate hazelnut paste on my bread. The bread itself is baked just three kilometres away and delivered warm. All the jams are homemade, as well as the juices. Although I am extremely enthusiastic and hyped at the moment of writing, I can confidently say that this is the best breakfast I have ever had. Everything tasted honest and unique, unlike the majority of other standardised hotels. Simply said, the attention to detail and quality is on another level. Stokkøya Strandhotell boasts a fantastic restaurant situated in the beach bar with a compact menu. And this is precisely a recipe for success. The dishes they offer perfectly match the surroundings and are, without exception, based on what is locally available. Mostly excellent seafood, vegetables and lamb. The dishes are excellently shareable, meaning that when you are with two people, you can order almost the entire menu and thus taste everything. As mentioned, the dishes are relatively simple but in terms of flavour, texture, and ingredients, they are very satisfying indeed. And then there is the view from the restaurant. You are dining right on the beach and watch the sun slowly disappear in the distance before it sinks into the sea. Gorgeous... or romantic if that is your thing. I almost hesitate to mention it in a blog post solely dedicated to Norwegian travel destinations, but I will do it nonetheless. With this excellent dinner in mind, it can hardly be a coincidence that an incredibly charming Italian chef is at the helm in the kitchen. A cheerful and highly skilled one, moreover. Grazie! Activities I understand that the remote nature of the hotel might be a bit daunting. Let me immediately reassure you that you can entertain yourself here for days with numerous activities. The hotel rents out kayaks, paddleboards, and bicycles. They also have a sauna right on the beach, so you can run into the ice-cold sea with your sweaty body and loudly announce to the rest of the hotel guests that you have indeed gone completely under. About a 20-minute drive from the hotel, on one of the other islands, lies a rather fascinating cave that you can walk to (or 'hike' as everyone likes to describe walking nowadays). It'll take you about half an hour to reach the entrance of the cave, which reminded me of some massive cathedral. Most likely, this gigantic cavern was used in the Bronze Age as a defensive line when the nearby settlement was attacked by rival tribes. Who knows, I wasn’t there. You owe it to Stokkøya to visit the local bakery too . Housed in yet another architectural gem, you will find a very charming terrace where you can enjoy a cup of coffee and the most delicious freshly baked croissants, cinnamon rolls, and other treats. The bakery is about a 20-minute walk from Stokkøya Strandhotell. Follow the beach south until you reach a staircase that helps you climb the rocks, then follow the path over the rocks and through the forest. You will soon come to a red-painted barn. After that, turn left and walk a bit down the road, and you will quickly find the bakery. Do check the opening times in advance. What are you waiting for? I doubt you need any more endorsements, and for the average Norwegian, Stokkøya Strandhotell is likely already well-known, as the hotel has been in operation for about ten years. But if you have decided to visit this fantastic country, and you might only do so once in your life, I dare bet you will have an incredibly enjoyable time spending a few nights here, no matter the season. Indeed, I would not understand if, after reading this little article, you decide to book your stay with a generic hotel chain. Moreover, it is evident that the focus here is on the responsible use of food, resources, and energy. In these times of over-consumption, mass tourism, and the general depletion of our planet, this alone is an excellent reason to travel to this joyous resort. Besides, it is just over a two-hour drive from Trondheim, but since everything in Norway is at least a two-hour drive away, you can immediately dismiss that as a reason not to go. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Trondheim Airport (TRD). Public transport really takes forever, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Destination: a guide to Valhalla; when and where to see the northern lights in Bodø

    The Northern Lights have inspired some of the most dramatic tales in Norwegian mythology. The Vikings celebrated these lights and believed them to be the earthly appearances of gods. Other Nordic cultures, however, held a sense of trepidation towards them. They wove tales of horror and developed superstitious rituals in hopes of safeguarding themselves. Odin, the supreme deity and lord of Åsgard, commanded reverence and admiration from all Vikings. It was their belief that Odin chose warriors who met their end in battle upon Earth, guiding them to Valhalla. The Valkyries, mounted female warriors clad in armor with spears and shields, were tasked with ushering Odin's chosen warriors to Valhalla. The Vikings perceived the Northern Lights illuminating the sky as reflections of the Valkyries' armor as they traversed from the battlefield to Odin. In other Norse legends, the Northern Lights were believed to be the breath of brave soldiers who fell in combat. In yet other tales, they were seen as Bifrost, the bridge linking Asgard and Midgard, ferrying warriors to their final resting place in Valhall. For the Sami people , the Northern Lights did not recount tales of heroism and bravery. Instead, they regarded it with a mixture of fear and respect. The sight of the Northern Lights signified something ominous. It was thought to be the souls of the departed, and it was taboo to speak of it. Interacting with the light by waving, whistling, or singing underneath it was deemed perilous, as it could become aware of your presence. The belief held that the light might descend and carry you to the heavens, or worse yet, sever your head if it discovered you! Many Sami individuals still prefer to stay indoors when the Northern Lights grace the sky, just to be safe. No matter your perspective, it remains a phenomenon that captivates the imagination, even mine. I spent around three years in the far south of Norway, residing in Kristiansand. I frequently checked my alert app, hoping for a chance to witness the Northern Lights. I succeeded once, following a massive solar flare eruption. However, it was a bit underwhelming. I had ventured to the darkest corner of the city in the dead of night, ascended a hill, and caught a fleeting glimpse of a tiny, curtain-like, white cloud for a mere four seconds. Now, living considerably farther north (near Oslo) in an area with minimal light pollution, I am treated to multiple occurrences of the Northern Lights each year. In fact, there are times when I stand in my kitchen and chance upon white-green curtains dancing above the valley through my window. Each time, I find myself in utter awe and I take tons of pictures. If you happen to visit Norway between October and March, you stand the greatest chance of catching a glimpse of this extraordinary phenomenon. Yet, there are certainly no guarantees. Firstly, the (celestial) weather conditions must be favorable. A nocturnal sky with minimal cloud cover is desired. Ideally, a solar flare eruption directed towards Earth and potent enough to produce the Northern Lights. Then comes a measure of luck. You might find yourself sound asleep, missing the spectacle entirely. That happened to me countless times, waking up the next morning to seeing the most amazing pictures other people took. Nevertheless, you can increase your odds. Begin by selecting your destination. Trondheim, for instance, lies notably farther north than Oslo. Yet, the optimal choice would be Arctic Norway, locations situated on the latitude of Bodø and upwards. If you're truly dedicated, seek accommodations further removed from cities, boasting a clear northern view, and preferably featuring expansive windows. Let me provide you with the most amazing accomodations close to Bodø. yet far from city-lights in order to increase your chances: Manshausen The Arctic Hide away Folvika Northern Retreat Also, consider installing a Northern Lights app . You could even activate notifications alerting you to heightened solar activity and the subsequent chance of witnessing this luminous display. However, it bears repeating that there are no certainties. It's a bonus for those with good patience and karma if you will. Good luck! **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Bodø Airport (BOO). From there public transport really takes forever, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Stay: a cabin in Norway; here's how to find the most spectacular ones

    As I traverse through this magnificent land called Norway, I am often overcome with a strong desire to acquire a charming holiday cabin somewhere. However, reality often throws a spanner in the works. Firstly, it's a rather costly venture. The other hurdle is that the distances here are so tremendously vast that, apart from a few weekends, it's often not worth the effort. But fear not, for a solution now exists. You may be familiar with all the commonly used rental platforms, but forget everything you know about them. A new platform has recently emerged: Landfolk. What sets this platform apart is its focus on breathtaking locations, exquisite interiors, and well-equipped holiday homes of high quality. To cut to the chase, through Landfolk, you have the opportunity to stay in the most spectacular locations without having to break the bank. To convince you, let me share a few tips about areas that hold a special place in my memories. I previously wrote an article about Luster and its stunning surroundings. And that's where I'll take you first. Not long ago, two brothers decided to build a small holiday cottage high above the Lusterfjord. Nestled high above the Lusterfjord, you find yourself in a completely different world. From the terrace, you have a breathtaking view of the mountain ridges and lower villages along the fjord coast. Additionally, you enjoy the sun here until late in the evening, which isn't always a given in such mountainous areas. The bedroom is on the second floor, allowing you to keep your curtains open without worrying about curious sheep or foxes, so you can fully appreciate the magnificent view. Moreover, the cottage is tastefully decorated. Once you're here, you won't want to leave, so you'll have to accept that risk. Get a sneak peek here. The nearest airport is Sogndal, from where you can drive to Skjolden in about 1 hour and 15 minutes. If you prefer something more rustic, then Bygstad is the perfect place for you. A beautifully restored farmhouse from the 12th century in a romantic farmer style. It doesn't get more spectacular in terms of landscape than the Norwegian west coast (of course, I may be a bit biased), and you stay right in the midst of it. The farmhouse is situated at 230 m above sea level and is perfect as a basecamp for excursions to Storehesten, Lisjehesten, the Skaraly day trip hut, and Bergsheia. This is a perfect spot when you're traveling with, for example, another couple or children. As the farmhouse consists of multiple buildings, you can retreat to your own space and gather again for breakfast the next morning. Furthermore, it's close to the Førde airport, which you can reach within an hour's flight from Oslo with Widerøe. I've previously described Senja in one of my articles. It's so breathtakingly beautiful that I've been contemplating how to return there as soon as possible for the past 6 months. Maybe I should leave it up to you. Because if you're truly seeking an exotic location, then Bjarkøy might be the right choice for you. Far above the Arctic Circle, surrounded by mountains and right by the sea, stands an incredible holiday home . The house is located in the northernmost archipelago of Norway, with 365 islands and islets, white sandy beaches, and Arctic swimming waters. The sea offers the opportunity for both boat and land fishing, and there is easy access by ferry, making day trips to Senja, Lofoten, Vesterålen, and Narvik easy-peasy. The view is surrealistically beautiful, and you have all the space and amenities you could wish for. A total of 5 beds, a sauna, a hot tub, and a pizza oven are just a few of the many features this house offers. If you're still not convinced, perhaps I should consider hanging up my blogger hat. No, I won't...of course. If you're planning to visit any of these cabins, it's very wise to reserve a car in advance. Since these areas are rather rural and remote, the availability of rental cars is limited. I'd suggest to reserve one right away as soon as your plans are a bit more specific. Check here for availability .

  • Destination: 10 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Norway; what are they and where to find them

    Norway proudly boasts a remarkable array of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, underscoring its rich cultural and natural heritage. These UNESCO-designated locales in Norway, celebrated as world heritage sites, encompass both tangible and intangible treasures (so, stuff you can touch and stuff you can not touch), firmly securing their place on the global stage. For those seeking to explore the historic tapestry of Norway, I made a nice list, marked on google maps. But what is a UNESCO World Heritage Site? A UNESCO World Heritage Site is a locale or expanse acknowledged by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) for its cultural, natural, or blended (both cultural and natural) significance. The primary aim of this distinguished designation is to pinpoint, shield, and perpetuate these sites for the advantage of both contemporary and forthcoming generations. This acknowledgment not only underscores the worth of these sites but also stimulates global collaboration in their safeguarding. Now that we've brushed up on that, let's transition to the inventory of World Heritage sites found within the borders of Norway. I've added a brief description of what they are and pinned them on Google Maps, so you can save them on your personal map. This ensures that you won't miss a thing during your road trip. Let us set off! 1. Bryggen (Wharf) - Bergen : Nestled in the city of Bergen, Bryggen is a historic wharf adorned with vibrant, wooden edifices. It stands as a testament to the significance of the Hanseatic League's commercial endeavors during the medieval era. 2. Urnes Stave Church The Urnes Stave Church stands as an exceptional specimen of a medieval wooden church, adorned with intricate carvings and regarded as a Nordic artistic masterpiece. 3. Røros Mining Town Røros, a meticulously preserved mining town from the 17th century, encompasses the town itself, its copper mines, and the encompassing cultural terrain. 4. Rock Art of Alta The Alta rock art showcases petroglyphs dating back to the late Stone Age and early Metal Age, depicting scenes of hunting, fishing, and everyday life. 5. Vegaøyan – The Vega Archipelago Situated in northern Norway, the Vega Archipelago embodies a cultural landscape reflecting traditional fishing and eider farming practices. It encompasses houses, fishing facilities, and a distinctive system of eiderhouses. 6. Struve Geodetic Arc The Struve Geodetic Arc comprises a series of survey triangulations stretching from Hammerfest in Norway to the Black Sea, utilized in the 19th century to meticulously measure the Earth's shape and size. 7. Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord This site encompasses two fjords, Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord, celebrated for their extraordinary natural beauty, dramatic landscapes, and cultural import. 8. Rjukan–Notodden Industrial Heritage Site The industrial complex at Rjukan–Notodden played a pivotal role in artificial fertilizer production, representing a significant chapter in industrialization history. Intangible UNESCO Cultural Heritage in Norway: 1. Traditional Music of the Setesdal Valley This element encapsulates the traditional vocal and instrumental music of the Setesdal Valley, mirroring the cultural heritage and identity of the local community. 2. Art of dry stone walling, knowledge and techniques This pertains to the traditional craftsmanship of constructing dry stone walls, a time-honored agricultural practice in Norway.

  • Eat: in the spirit of Jeff Koons; the best dumplings in Norway

    Setting aside the fact that I never truly embraced full adulthood, one could roughly pinpoint my entrance into maturity somewhere around the mid-first decade of the new century. It was likely during that period that the premises, which now houses Norway's best dumpling restaurant, must have served an entirely different purpose. Reflecting on the past, I vividly recall my initial visit to this establishment years ago on a freezing February evening, and I couldn't help but be overwhelmed by a gentle wave of nostalgia. The ambiance struck me as a peculiar blend, reminiscent of both a social room in a carehome for the elderly and a classroom from the late '90s. The Golden Chimp is situated on a corner of two streets within the district of Grønland. Grønland stands as Oslo's most "international" neighborhood, where the rich diversity of ethnicities subtly echoes all the armed conflicts of the past four decades. Personally, I find comfort in such areas, although I understand that the sentiment might not be shared by everyone. But I wonder off. I was contemplating and describing the interior of the venue. The walls are sparingly adorned with kitschy artifacts, peculiar images, and an occasional odd primate. And this brings me to the name: Golden Chimp. I'm uncertain of its origins, yet it brought to mind that (deeply ugly yet perhaps trailblazing) artwork by Jeff Koons, featuring the likeness of Michael Jackson and that peculiar little ape, which you can find at the Astrup Fearnley Museet here in Oslo. Nevertheless, the reason for my current reflections revolves around the fact that I have never savored such delectable and extraordinary dumplings before, and likely never will again. I would say these are the best in Oslo, if not in Norway. The ingredients they use are of exceptional quality, and their ability to surprise and delight knows no bounds, all the while staying firmly within the parameters of what I would describe as comforting cuisine. I would be eager to dine there when returning home and realizing the fridge is entirely bare. I would bring my Tinder date here, and the next. Your parents would probably love it. When in need to nurse your Sunday-afternoon hangover; Golden Chimp. When life feels overwhelming in general; Golden Chimp. If suddenly your Korean in-laws would happen to suddenly grace your doorstep and you're a terrible cook; Golden Chimp. When solitude calls and everything and everyone else can take a back seat, this is the perfect spot to relish your own solemn company.

  • Destination: traditional Norwegian delicacies on the side of the road; gårdsbutikker

    It is a frequent inquiry from visitors seeking recommendations for traditional Norwegian delicacies or gastronomic delights. While the customary response unfailingly includes mentions of pinnekjøt, rakfisk, and lutefisk, my enthusiasm for such culinary offerings is tempered by the sensation akin to suggesting a schnitzel to a tourist in Germany. This sentiment is not meant to slight schnitzels (or pinnekjøt), but rather to convey a concern that I might inadvertently overlook the rich tapestry of culinary treasures that Norway boasts. This sentiment is primarily rooted in the sheer abundance of exceptional offerings; it's simply too much to mention. Ranging from cheeses that rival their French counterparts to impeccable apple cider, extraordinary beers, and a diverse array of delicate and flavorsome meat and fish products. In light of this abundance, I am motivated to assist you in navigating this gastronomic landscape to savor the breadth of these delectable offerings. Hanen serves as a collective entity, an umbrella organization encompassing the majority of these producers, akin to a distinguished quality certification. Their invaluable contribution takes the form of a brilliantly crafted map (thank you Hanen) replete with recommendations and designated stops where one can procure and savor locally produced delicacies. Therefore, my foremost recommendation is to diligently consult this map as you drive the scenic routes of this captivating country. True appreciation of a nation is encapsulated in the act of tasting its essence. Should you chance upon a roadside sign adorned with the image of a rooster, rest assured it is invariably worth the pause. Consider, for instance, when journeying from Oslo towards the enchanting destination of Valdres (a journey I make at least 6 times a year). The Valdres region, for instance, has carved a niche for itself in the crafting of the finest Rakfisk. Notably, Noråker gård stands among the very finest. They have, on a previous occasion, been honoured with the title of best rakfisk during the infamous Rakfisk festivalen taking place in Fagernes. Yet, it is not solely rakfisk that crowns their expertise. They have a remarkable assemblage of deliciousness in their shop. I, for one, bought a bottle of pine needle syrup there last year. Yes, you read that correctly. Its flavour is reminiscent of apple, with a deep and mellifluous undertone. A scoop of vanilla ice cream accompanied by a drizzle of this syrup is utterly delish. This tale only grazes the surface of the hundreds of gårdsbutikker that are dotting Norway. Alas, it is an insurmountable task to spotlight them all. Seek out, start your electric rental car , and embark upon this culinary odyssey. Should you happen upon a magnificent discovery, hit me up on Instagram . Such an exchange would be nothing short of 'really cool'!

  • Eat: the oldest tavern in Norway; traditional food close to Oslo

    It was, akin to numerous occurrences in life, entirely fortuitous that I stumbled upon Bærums Verk. A form of pandemic weariness, the hustle and bustle, coupled with the exorbitant housing prices in Oslo, compelled us to flee the city. It was the midst of summer when we inspected an apartment without any intention of purchasing. While savoring a pizza and a pint at Melboden , we mutually decided that we were both rendered speechless by the romantic setting, curiously unheard of until then. The river coursing through the valley, the resplendent woods, and the overarching idyll – you can likely see where this narrative is headed. This became the place I have been living for a few years now. Furthermore, Bærums Verk is steeped in history, with its most recent chapter involving a group of Dutch venture capitalists who worked iron ore and exported timber. The industrial legacy of this era still stands in Bærums Verk. Along the river, a collection of exceedingly charming laborers' cottages grace the landscape. Additionally, remnants of the old factories remain, now housing a petite shopping mall. A venerable tavern, Værtshuset , also stands here, reputedly Norway's oldest (1640). Stepping into this deep-red edifice immediately engulfs you in traditional history typical for Norway. Furnished in a manner reminiscent of the 18th century, it could fittingly be termed romantic. The beams of the low ceiling dangle somewhat askew here and there, and a multitude of antiquated photographs adorn the walls. For someone with an affection for antiquities such as myself, this locale stimulates the imagination. The staff is garbed in classical Norwegian costume, momentarily transporting you to a sort of themed park. It's somewhat quaint, yet curiously, it harmonizes exceedingly well with the overall ambiance of the place. It's a bit goofy, but charming nonetheless. Moreover, the menu is exemplary. They serve splendid classical dishes, employing the best ingredients. However, the predominant attraction remains the setting. Picture yourself on a wintry evening. Half a meter of fresh snow blankets the terrain, and as you open the door to Værtshuset for the first time, the embrace of hospitality is an experience unlikely to fade swiftly. During summer, you can enjoy your lunch or dinner in the cozy courtyard. A tiny paradise I would say. Beyond Værtshuset, there's a wealth of sights to explore in Bærums Verk. The erstwhile laborers' cottages and barns I mentioned earlier have since been transformed into unique and highly original shops, galleries, and workshops. The glassblowing workshop, particularly active on Saturdays, allows one to witness with rapt attention the crafting of the most artistic objects. My unequivocal favorites are: Snekkerbua , a diminutive shop brimming with exquisite, frequently handcrafted utensils, woolen products, baskets and thingy's. Delightful! Melboden , purveyors of the finest pizzas in the area, housed within an enchantingly cute little building. Smelters Mathus , although completely unaffordable for the majority of mortals, I love gazing at their amazing food selection. In wintertime, Bærums Verk plays host to a most charming Christmas market, an image conjuring the coziest of scenes, but I will write separate blog post about that. **Getting there: Bærums Verk is easy accessible by car and public transport (Bus 150 from Oslo). Nonetheless, reserving a car in advance saves you a lot of time on public transport. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Hike: close to comfort; making a fire in Norway (and how to do it and when)

    I must, in advance, temper your enthusiasm, for this article may not be relevant to most of you due to the stringent regulations surrounding open fires in Norway between April and early September. These restrictions are not designed to pester tourists but stem from the simple fact that Norway boasts abundant forests, and the summer months tend to be rather dry. Moreover, much of the ground cover here is often peat-like, highly flammable, and difficult to extinguish. If a fire were to break out, it would be nearly uncontrollable. Nevertheless, during the period from May to September, the weather is generally mild, and campfires are seldom necessary. But yes, making a fire in Norway: there's several crucial considerations that come into play. In particular order: 1. Use dry deadwood: preferably fallen from the trees; it is strictly forbidden to fell trees for firewood. In fact, depending on your location, doing so may incur a substantial fine. 2. Select a safe campfire location: opt for a beach or stony ground and delineate your fire site with stones to form a compact circle. This not only acts as a windbreak but also prevents the fire from spreading. Additionally, the stones absorb heat, enhancing the fire's effectiveness. Furthermore, when you retire to your sleeping bag at night, it's highly recommended to take along a well-warmed pebble wrapped in a woolen beanie to prevent burns. I dare say the stone will still radiate warmth the following morning which can bring great comfort to your overall camping experience. 3. Lighting the fire: you won't need paper to start your fire. All you require are a few birch trees with white bark. Without harming the tree, make a small incision in the bark, but do not press too hard on the trunk. Make this cut about 20cm long. Now, you can peel off a portion of the bark. Place the bits of birch bark in a dry bag to increase your chances of successfully igniting your fire in the evening. It's also advisable to pack a few pieces of dry wood in your backpack. This makes it much easier to ignite your fire when it's cold and damp. Use a sharp knife to cut a stack of wood shavings. The thinner the combustible material, the better it will dry and burn. When the rest of your wood is somewhat moist, you'll need extra heat to ignite the larger pieces. 4. Fire arrangement: Place the pieces of birch bark on the ground, surrounded by a circle of large stones. If the floor is wet, cover it with a few branches from a pine tree. Add a substantial pile of twigs and create a mound of wood shavings with your knife. Build a structure with large pieces of wood around the mound of twigs. 5. Prepare firewood: before lighting your fire, ensure you have a good supply of firewood positioned right next to it. As the heat increases, you can begin to dry your wood, ensuring you have enough material to keep the fire burning when the initial load has burnt out. Chances are you'll have a portable gas stove with you when camping, but if you're already starting a fire, you might as well use it to boil water and fill up your thermos for your tea the next morning. I always carry a small kettle with me, which I use for boiling water for coffee and rehydrating my freeze-dried meals. With a bit of rope, you can easily construct a tripod to hang your kettle from. In summary, here's what you need to make fire effortlessly: - Relatively dry wood - Dry wood shavings or birch bark - A dry bag - A lighter, matches, or a magnesium stick (though the latter is for the hardcore firemakers) - A multitool, preferably with a small saw blade and a small axe. I've personally used one of these for a comfortable amount of time. - A good, sharp knife (especially for cutting wood shavings) and to fight off aggressive Norwegians. My favourites are Mora Knives. Before even striking a spark, make sure you thoroughly research the regulations regarding making fires. You wouldn't want to be responsible for an uncontrollable forest fire, or catch a fine! In general, be a bit mindful.

  • Destination: (by the mercy of) god and king; the most special destination in Finnmark

    Allow me to begin forthwith by addressing a potent cocktail of circumstances that proved to be a fertile ground for adversity and disgusting atrocities: the nexus of greedy monarchs, the Church as an institution of power, and an ample dose of superstition and paranoia. Precisely this constellation unfurled its tumultuous consequences throughout the medieval era across the entire expanse of Europe. Witch hunts and persecutions became a grim fixture in the daily tapestry, Norway being no exception. Alas, it was women and marginalized groups, such as the Sami people, who bore the brunt of this sinister epoch. The allegations and prosecutions of witchcraft during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries are remarkably well-documented by local courts, offering a disconcerting insight into the sheer absurdity and cruelty that underpinned this phenomenon. In the town of Vardø, a poignant monument stands as a tribute to all those ensnared by the shackles of witchcraft accusations. The design hails from the esteemed Swiss studio of Peter Zumthor, renowned the world over. I found myself there on a mist-laden day in the heart of July. At first glance, the monument's structure evokes thoughts of the fish-drying racks that dot the northern reaches of Norway. A lengthy gangway leads you to the entrance of this architectural testament. What lies within left an indelible impression on me. However, I refrain from delving into detail, for I believe such an encounter ought to be experienced firsthand. As you emerge from the exit, a construction to the left caught my eye—an installation that, to my perception, conjured an image of a pyre, surrounded by onlookers. The grand mirrors poetically mirror the grim reality that the pyre loomed for the many back then. With society's hardening and the displacement of countless refugees, an unsettling parallel to our present comes into view all too clearly. The accusation and marginalization of vulnerable minorities stubarnly persist in our contemporary landscape. Another facet of this monument's beauty lies in its proximity to a tiny white church, seemingly positioned as an indictment against the pivotal role the church played in perpetuating the witch hunts. It made me to reflect upon many layers of history and meaning. Indeed, this monument alone serves as an incentive for a drive to Vardø. The town itself exudes a somewhat dilapidated charm, which, in a peculiar manner, harmonizes with the sense of an outpost at the edge of the world. Life has always been rather harsh here, dictated by the climate, limited economic activity, and the stark reality of Vardø's utter destruction during the ravages of the Second World War—scorched earth, as the harrowing term denotes, a lamentable all-time-low of modern civilization. Nevertheless, a voice in my head whispers that Vardø is undergoing a renaissance of some sort. One discerns it in the murals adorning the walls with the Codfather by Norwegian artist Pøbel as a highlight, in the surge of bird and fish enthusiasts, and in the presence of a superbly hospitable and charming hotel. Vardø, in an enigmatic fashion, endeared itself to me. Not every garden bed is groomed, and vintage Volvos from the 1980s languish in sporadic disuse rusting away the days. Yet, peer beyond the surface, chat with a passerby, and embrace the unhurried rhythm of this place. And be aware that the weight of history lies just beneath the veneer. Moreover, Vardø occupies a pivotal point on the Varanger national tourist route, extending its passage all the way to Hamningsberg. I deeply hope you consider my plea to pay Vardø a visit as in my opinion this is the most special destination in Finnmark. Should you find yourself swayed, I recommend securing a stay at the Vardø Hotel. Here, the art of hospitality is practiced with a pragmatic finesse, and a very skilled chef made landfall here too. Might one want to contemplate in a slightly more private and jaw-dropping setting, consider booking lodging right here. It's called 'Varanger View' for obvious reasons. From the window you will likely witness reindeer passing by...or catch a glimpse of the northern lights! **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Kirkenes Airport (KKN) since there's direct flights from Oslo. From there it is most wise to reserve a rental car (long) in advance. Charging stations are rather scarce in this outpost of the world, so in this case rather rent a petrol car. Check here for availability.

  • Eat: heavy meals while keeping it light; why I always bring dry food when I’m on a hike in Norway

    I realize that the title might not sound very appealing at first. But let me tell you why the opposite is true. Every time I'm packing my backpack, I always find myself just a little short on space. I'd rather bring an extra pair of socks or another pair of trousers in case the first two get soaked. However, that space always seems to be occupied by food and provisions, depending on the length of the trip. You need to bring far more food than you'd initially think! And here's why. You wake up in the morning after a rather chilly night. You're hungry because you burn more calories sleeping outdoors. You pack up your tent, hoist your backpack, and trek for 5 to 6 hours before reaching your next destination. The terrain is far from flat; it's undulating, and at times, you have to take big steps to climb. Essentially, you're doing half squats for about 5 hours straight, with an additional 30kg on your back. You get the point. You burn significantly more calories than on a typical weekday, yet the inclination is to skimp on food. That's why I want to share what I pack for a long weekend or more in the wilderness. The main meals I bring are all dry food. My absolute favorite is REAL turmat. Meals come in various flavors and are fantastic in quality and flavour. All you need to do is boil a bit of water, pour it into the bag, stir a few times, and in about 8 minutes, you have a soothing hot meal worth around 500 calories. The fantastic part is that when you're in the middle of a forest or on a plateau, you suddenly find yourself enjoying a warm curry or stew. Besides being enjoyable, eating warm food provides a sense of comfort, especially when you're alone in the wild. The psychological effect of a warm meal cannot be underestimated. You can buy these meals online beforehand, which I highly recommend. It helps you realistically assess the space available in your backpack while packing. Depending on the type of trip, one warm meal per day is usually enough, along with a hearty breakfast. I often bring the cheapest dried packets of porridge. Again, they weigh next to nothing and take up relatively little space, so I always end up taking too much, just to be safe. They pack a decent amount of energy and are very economical. I also bring a large bag of dried raisins or cranberries to add some flair to my breakfast. Even better, if you're out in late summer or early autumn, you can harvest your own berries. What else you could or should consider bringing (or that I at least would bring): One container of powdered coffee/loose tea with a tea holder. A small container of salt and some of those sugar sachets you can "borrow" from your local coffee shop (no, don't do it, DON'T). A bag of peanuts or other nuts. They're rich in energy and iron, which is good when you need a pick-me-up. Also, your muscles need iron for optimal recovery. Some chocolate. Trust me, after climbing a peak, there's nothing better than treating yourself to something sweet. It also quickly brings any potential low blood sugar back up. My favorite: Tony's Chocolonely (child-labour and slave-free chocolate which is by far the best chocolate I ever had). If I'm going on a longer trip and unsure of the duration, I often bring a few sachets of potato puree. With a bit of salt, it's quite palatable. Optionally, some sachets of powdered soup. It weighs nothing and is delightful during a break. Again, good for your overall mental balance. As I mentioned, it's wise to buy the first batch of food in advance to ensure it fits in your backpack when you set out. I usually do my shopping in a regular supermarket, but I also order online. Sometimes, there are good online deals for dried meals. They might seem a bit pricey, but if you had to buy all the ingredients separately, your meal would easily be twice as expensive. It might sound rudimentary if you're not accustomed to it, but once you're outdoors and exerting effort every day, every bite truly tastes fantastic. So no you know what food to bring on your hikes when visiting Norway. And I'm curious about your experiences. Hit me up on Insta if you're eager to share!

  • Hike: a few firm words from your spokesman on nature etiquette in Norway

    Certainly, the title sounds much more tough than my intended message. However, in order to captivate attention for a matter of profound significance, I deemed it appropriate to select a slightly provocative heading. Sorry! This is due to the following reason. When venturing forth with one's backpack or camper, it doesn't take long before finding oneself amidst regions where the regulations of urban centers and civilized domains hold no sway. In this instance, I am particularly referring to the management of waste and, well, all the other byproducts that we, as individuals, inevitably generate. I trust you comprehend my intention without my needing to explicitly enumerate each and every aspect. Thus, allow me to offer a gentle reminder concerning nature etiquette in Norway and how one can play the role of a conscientious Samaritan while traversing this splendid and majestic land. First and foremost, it must be made clear that garbage trucks do not frequent hiking trails. It might sound obvious, but nevertheless, it seems necessary to mention, for all too often I encounter an array of litter in the middle of nowhere, items that certainly have no place there. Envision this: you are meticulously planning a hiking vacation in Norway, with a desire to journey from one cabin to another. You intend to carry provisions for at least five days. This entails considering that you'll be carrying the waste from those five days along with you. Because when utilizing facilities such as those provided by the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT), the likelihood is high that these cabins are situated in such remote locales that waste disposal simply isn't an option. Therefore, carry your waste with you and dispose of it only once you return to inhabited regions. Aligned with the earlier discourse, the subsequent matter holds significant import. During my travels across the nation last summer, I was taken aback by the volume of debris left by tourists at camping sites, on parking lots and on hiking trails: plastic packaging, cigarette butts, barbecues, candy wrappers, beer cans, soiled diapers, used tampons and what not. Herein lies the issue: the responsibility of cleaning up this mess predominantly falls upon volunteers from for example Likefintsomfør, Rydde Norge and Litter Submitter. And that's not because Norway's treasury is depleted, but due to the sheer impracticality of maintaining every nook and cranny of this massive country. Thus, I beseech you in a polite yet earnest manner, that if you stumble upon any litter, do pick it up and carry it along in your camper. Ideally, do so when others are within view. For a positive example tends to elicit emulation. Moreover, it bestows upon oneself a sense of satisfaction. Have you ever heard of 'the broken window theory'? It aptly applies here in my modest opinion. In the absence of litter, fewer individuals will litter themselves. The same as all the above holds true for Norway's expansive coastline. You can well imagine how challenging it is to keep 100,000 kilometers spotless. It might transpire that you've parked your camper somewhere, strolling along the shore when you come upon a fragment of discarded fishing net. No one else will remove it, so be a true gentleman or gentlewoman and retrieve it. It might seem like a mere drop in the ocean, yet if each visitor makes a modest contribution, the cumulative impact can be substantial. Now, my final point, and congratulations on persevering through this quite extensive discourse. Human excrement. Particularly at tourist hotspots, human waste has evolved into a pronounced issue. Take Lofoten, for example. The predicament stems from our consumption of numerous foods containing high concentrations of preservatives. As a result, the breakdown of said waste takes an astonishingly long time. Consequently, this excrement often remains strewn across the mountaintops of Lofoten for several years. Hence, exercise mindfulness prior to embarking on a mountain ascent, considering the subsequent travelers who shall grace that summit. Make a quick pit stop or carry a waste containment pouch. The same applies to hygienic wipes, which do not degrade. Following their use, enclose them within a sealed zip bag and carry them off the mountain. My gratitude, along with that of all other visitors and animals, is immense!

  • Destination: the underdog of fjords; why Lusterfjorden deserves your visit

    Late May or early June is undeniably the most picturesque time to pick the majestic fjords as your destination. Above 700 meters, a substantial blanket of snow often lingers, while the steep slopes and valleys burst into vibrant bloom. The greenery is so fresh and vivid that it almost dazzles the eyes. The snow appears as powdered sugar atop a delectable cake of pure beauty. For those with a penchant for cultural history, you might spontaneously find yourself whistling the tune of 'The Sound of Music.' However, once you've finished your melody, allow me to continue my tale. I first ventured here about three years ago, precisely around this time. It was a sun-drenched weekend. As a birthday surprise, I had rented a cottage right on the shores of Lusterfjord. From our bedroom, we could hear the thunderous waterfall, which plummeted some 400 meters down, about 5 kilometers from our cottage on the opposite side of the fjord. And as we savored our breakfast, a group of five dolphins gracefully swam by. It was all rather idyllic. Luster itself is an ancient hamlet tucked away along the fjord coast. It boasts a small stone church dating back to the year 1120, a handful of charming wooden cottages, and a terrace frequented by a few occasional tourists and Norwegian car enthusiasts of a specific make or model during the summer. There's a small supermarket, and that's about it. The village is surrounded by fruit trees and houses built in the 1940s and 1950s. The connecting road from the highlands is often no wider than one campervan, often necessitating some reversing to pass one another. The Norwegians tackle this with ease and a certain resignation. It has always been this way, and it always will be. A friendly wave is exchanged once vehicles pass each other. You typically stumble upon this place by accident as you make your way from the roof of Norway towards the well-trodden paths of the western fjord coast. Most people drive right past this stunning piece of nature, which, in my opinion, is a grave injustice. Therefore, I'd like to offer some tips to hopefully entice you to spend a few days here. First and foremost, there's accommodation. There truly is something for everyone. I, as a habitual penny-pincher, stayed in a reasonably basic but incredibly charming cabin on the grounds of Dalsøren Camping. As I mentioned before, it's right on the water, and that's precisely why you're here: the view. It's a charming, old-school campsite where as many Norwegians as tourists stay, creating a familiar and friendly atmosphere. People barbecue on the large stone pier, and children jump into the ice-cold water. The most spectacular stay has to be For the most romantic overnight stay, look no further than Nes Gård. Book the glass mirror house (Suite with Terrace, as it's called) with a breathtaking view of the fjord, the mountains, and the waterfalls. At Nes Gård, you'll instantly feel like you've entered an unreal paradise. This place exudes a down-to-earth magic that perfectly complements the surroundings. They serve typical Norwegian cuisine and are very helpful in making your arrival and stay as pleasant as possible. In my humble opinion, this is by far the best starting point for exploring Lusterfjorden and the surrounding areas. With various glaciers, Norway's oldest stave church, and numerous cultural highlights just a stone's throw away, you could easily reserve three nights here. You can also book kayaks, day trips, and, upon request, guides to show you around. Another equally romantic and idyllic location is Beste Bakken. To get straight to the point, here you can rent a glass house right in a field where alpacas graze (can be a little hot in the summer though). The incredible cheerfulness that this brings is sure to warm even the coldest of hearts. The same goes for the entire setup of Beste Bakken. Beste Bakken is an charming place where adventure, culture, and good food are the focal points. The buildings are modern and comfortable, rich in tradition, and offer a cozy, homey atmosphere. The other 14 bedrooms they rent out are of utmost comfort and offer a stylish (in the classical sense) backdrop for a rather romantic stay. All the bathrooms are exquisitely tiled, and several feature bubble baths. And there's also an outdoor jacuzzi. I mean, come on! The food they serve here is also of the highest standard. Fresh ingredients and the attention and love put into the dishes make the culinary experience absolutely unique. A significant portion of the ingredients comes from their own garden. And here, too, every effort is made to make your stay as easy and enjoyable as possible. Oh, and those alpacas - they're so cute. Book a night or two, it's worth every penny. If you're still not convinced to visit Lusterfjorden, let me give you one final nudge. On a stonecast's distance from Lusterfjorden, you'll find amongst a ton of other attractions: Asafossen Waterfall Nygaardsbreen Urnes Stave Church Wallaker Gallery I hope I've managed to persuade you. Lusterfjorden remains undiscovered by the masses, offering an exceptionally exclusive and unique experience. Here, you won't find long lines of camper vans, columns of motorcycles, or tourist shops selling trolls and quirky hats. Lusterfjorden is precisely the opposite: a place of warm hospitality that is seldom encountered. Lusterfjorden really deserves your visit! **Getting there: Public transport is a bit of a hassle (understatement), so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance at your airport of arrival. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Destination: your sofa; watch the best (according to me) Norwegian series and movies

    This isn't just a list I scraped together using generic search criteria from IMDB. The idea behind this list is to give you a bit of an insight into this country and also to nuance the cliché image that many people have of Norway. Don't get me wrong, much of it is true. Norwegians tend to be somewhat reserved, they only greet each other if they're more than 5 kilometers away from civilization. But where it all comes from is often best understood when you exaggerate it a bit. So, in no particular order, here's a list of films and series that I believe are well worth watching because they genuinely enhance your journey here and in a sense honour the Norwegian mindset and spirit. I should warn you in advance that some series can only be viewed through the Norwegian state broadcaster. But without resorting to too many obscure tricks, you can still watch most of them with a simple Norway proxy VPN connection (I'll give you a tip on the bottom of this article). Without further ado, let us set off: 1. Lykkeland: I watched this series with great attention. It paints a beautiful portrait of the early days of the new prosperity brought about by the discovery of oil off the Norwegian coast. You see how the farming society as it was in the 1950s gradually changes, ushering in a wave of emancipation, wealth, and small migrations. The diminishing influence of the church plays a strong role in traditional gender roles. The series is primarily set in and around Stavanger, which is still more or less the oil capital of Norway. Excellent acting by Malene Hovland Wadel, makes this series almost binge-worthy. Above all, it provides a wonderful framework for a time when high prosperity was not necessarily a given, but explosive changes in all aspects heralded a new era in Norwegian history. 2. Norsemen: One of the clichés I mentioned earlier is undoubtedly the Vikings. I understand that a group of marauding roughnecks captures the imagination. And rightfully so. In their perfected sailboats, they discovered entire continents (such as Greenland and what is now North America), founded Kiev, and realized that you could sail all the way to the Black Sea via where St. Petersburg is now. But the romanticization of Viking existence is sometimes overdone in my opinion. They were primarily farmers who, after a series of poor harvests, set sail out of desperation in search of better farming conditions (and raided and raped a bit while at it). The theory even goes that due to a massive volcanic eruption elsewhere on Earth, the entire globe was considerably darker and colder for several years in a row, leading to significantly poorer crop yields. It's difficult to prove, but the timing of the Vikings' voyages quite clearly correlates with carbon dating of the layers of ash found, among other places, in Greenland's ice. Anyway, to cut a long story short, you can, of course, watch the series "Vikings." Well-made and with a fair share of limbs being chopped off. Even more enjoyable is the English-spoken series "Norsemen." First and foremost, the actors have done their utmost to speak English with a heavy Norwegian accent. Additionally, you should actually see it as a parody of what today's society looks like, but set against the backdrop of a Viking setting. The longer you live here, the more visible and clear the parallels become. It's hilarious, I promise. But do watch the English-spoken one. 3. Med Monsen på vilspor: Lars Monsen is something of a phenomenon here (or a hero if you please). It was the very first series I watched when I moved here. That was about the first evening I sat down in front of the television, literally day one. And I was actually immediately in love with this sympathetic noble savage, in his bright orange jacket. The concept of the program is actually quite simple: Monsen (a seasoned survival expert who prefers animals over people) is dropped into the wilderness, and with limited resources, he must find his way to a specific destination. This series phenomenally captures the nationally shared love for the outdoors. Moreover, it brings you fairly close to the Norwegian national character, if such a thing exists. Plus, if you're interested in the outdoors and camping, you can learn an incredible amount from this series. Packing a backpack, taking the most essential items, and a thorough introduction to wilderness etiquette serve as an excellent foundation for your first visit to Norway (provided you're going with a backpack and tent). 4. Eventyr jenter: This fantastic series revolves around a group of adventurous (young) women who venture into the wilderness with cameras in hand. Depending on where in the world you watch this series, it's highly likely you'll find these women brave and tough. And that's accurate. Because in many countries, women have plenty to fear when they're out alone. And they get that fear primarily from us men because we can't keep our mouths shut, or worse, we can't keep our hands to ourselves. Let that sink in. Now, I'm not claiming that this series is proof that emancipation in Norway is complete and that we've reached enlightenment, far from it. But here, at least, it's safe enough for women to enjoy nature without being bothered by all sorts of hopeless individuals with a pair of testies swinging between their legs. Yep, I said it. And besides that, it is a marvellous series with a buch of great and diverse characteres. I hope it inspires you. 5. Almost every country has its own traumas to deal with when it comes to World War II (or any war). Although many of these traumas are universal, they have a lot to do with the national character and how things are dealth with in the aftermath. One important part of dealing with trauma is the films that are made of such events. Rightly or wrongly, they give us an image that we were 'good' in the war, even though it often turns out that only a tiny percentage of the population actually joined some form of resistance. But this awareness can also be called a trauma, and films are very effective in helping to process it. The best Norwegian war films, in my opinion, are "Max Manus" and "Kampen om Tungt Vannet." Both provide a beautiful glimpse into the Norwegian way of doing things and the national character. Universally, every country needs its heroes; ordinary boys and girls setting out to do someting extraordinary, that everyone can still identify with. 6. Verdens verste menneske (The worst person in the world): A hilarious and sometimes somewhat dark comedy about a woman who navigates her way through the tumultuous and sometimes confrontational existence of her thirties. The reason I mention it is that it is set in Oslo, and it gives you a great preview of what awaits you in the city. The outstanding acting, especially by Renate Reinsve and Anders Danielsen Lie, makes this Oscar-worthy material, without losing sight of the Norwegian mindset at any given point. 7. Rådebank: When you're on vacation here, you're undoubtedly going to encounter a phenomenon that leaves you in the dark: tire tracks seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Especially in the countryside, there's a lively car culture. This probably has something to do with the absence of too much entertainment, but even more so with a desire for community spirit and a sense of belonging. It's often young people hanging out at gas stations in Volvo 240s (an absolute cult car here) or beat-up American cars, playing loud music, and chugging all kinds of energy drinks. I must confess I have a huge soft spot for this kind of culture. Not because I identify with it, but more because it exists and was born out of a need. The series "Radebank" somewhat cultivates this culture but, more importantly, it offers a beautiful and touching view of youth culture in the countryside. Talking about feelings is not something they do much here, let alone in the countryside. This series makes you see things differently when you're on a road trip and you come across a house with a messy garden containing numerous seemingly unusable cars. 8. Home for Christmas: It was inevitable of course, the most delightful Christmas series you'll watch this year. It unfolds in multiple locations, with many of the typical Norwegian customs taking center stage. It's a particularly charming comedy with the usual ingredients; a complicated love life, a fractured family, and everyone feeling a bit lonely. And it all comes together on one delightfully festive yet unusual Christmas Eve. Pure indulgence! 9. Der ingen skulle tru at nokon kunne bu: A splendid portrayal of individuals residing in occasionally improbable locations. Spanning a total of 22 seasons, the series guides you through captivating narratives, breathtaking locations, and at times, unbelievable circumstances where Norwegians sustain a livelihood. Not only does this series take you on a magnificent journey across the entire country, but it also provides a beautiful insight into the mindset of the Norwegian, which often remains concealed. I often watch this show on sunday mornings. Absolutely brilliant! 10. Skam: ...which translates to "Shame" in English, is a Norwegian teen drama series created by Julie Andem. The show explores the lives of a group of high school students in Oslo, delving into various contemporary issues and challenges faced by teenagers. "Skam" gained widespread popularity (also worldwide) for its realistic portrayal of adolescence, addressing topics such as friendship, love, identity, mental health, and social issues. Some of what I've just mentioned can be viewed on one of the many streaming services, but a portion is only available through NRK (the Norwegian state broadcaster). Because it's not strictly allowed, but I believe there's no harm in wanting to watch fantastic Norwegian series as a non-Norwegian, here's my proposal for a bit of civil disobedience. With a connection from NORD VPN, you can enjoy all of the above and get fully into the mood before embarking on your journey to Norway. I hope you'll have a great time in anticipation (and let me know on Insta which one you enjoyed the most!)

  • Destination: 'syttende mai'; how to join in on the celebrations of Norway's day of the constitution on May 17th.

    After the Easter festivities subside in Norway, the nation not only embraces the arrival of spring but also eagerly awaits one of its most distinctive national holidays: May 17th, known as Constitution Day or 'syttende mai' as Norwegians say it (seventeenth of May). The 17th of May is Norway's Constitution Day, an annual celebration held on May 17th to commemorate the adoption of the country's constitution in 1814. This historical event followed the Napoleonic Wars, leading to the establishment of Norway as an independent kingdom, although the union with Sweden persisted until 1905. This day stands out for its unique charm, as every village and town orchestrates a children's parade. The spectacle involves students of various ages marching through the streets bedecked with banners and flags, accompanied by stirring marching bands. The profound symbolism underlying this event is the recognition that children embody the future. While in France, the grotesque (and old-fashioned) grandeur of the military parades down the Champ Elysees, in Norway, it is the children who take the spotlight, a truly enchanting sight; for they are considered to define the future of the country and therefore celebrated. Furthermore, May 17th is an occasion to revel in the nationwide celebration, casting a picturesque hue of blue, red, and white across the landscape (the colours of the national flag that is). The esteemed national TV channel NRK offers comprehensive coverage of the festivities unfolding throughout the entire country, leaving foreigners in awe. As an expatriate, I am personally moved each year as I witness the parades. They do send camera crews to even the smallest of villages, which I find so charming. In light of this, I wish to provide a brief overview of what to anticipate and how to actively partake in the celebrations, particularly during Constitution Day in Oslo, Bergen or Trondheim. Celebration 1. Children's Parade: The highlight of the celebration is the iconic children's parade, a tradition observed nationwide. In Oslo, the capital, the largest parade takes place. Schoolchildren, accompanied by marching bands, march past the royal palace, where they are saluted by the royal family. 2. Traditional Attire (Bunad): Many Norwegians don the bunad, the traditional Norwegian festive attire, during the celebration. This attire holds significant cultural and national symbolism as it refers to the region their family is from. My favourite might be the Norlands bunad, but I'll leave it to you to pick your favourite. And do ask people about their bunads. Everyone is honoured to get the chance to explain. 3. Culinary Traditions: Indulge in the tradition of enjoying ice cream and hot dogs on May 17th. Additionally, partake in barbecues, picnics, or other communal events that characterize the day. Most parks are packed with people, which supplies an excellent way to mingle and join the festivities. Some amusing facts 1. Diverse Bunads: Norway boasts over 400 distinct types of bunads, reflecting regional and traditional variations. Witnessing the kaleidoscope of colors and patterns during the festivities is truly captivating. 2. May 17th Cake: Kransekake, an almond cake, is a popular dessert on this day. Many people partake in a special May 17th breakfast with friends or family, creating a bustling morning scene. 3. Russ Celebration: Graduating high school students, known as Russ, also join in the May 17th festivities. They often have customized "Russ buses" and actively participate in the parade, contributing to the lively atmosphere. How to best experience the day 1. Children's Parade Participation: Whether joining the procession or observing, dressing in a suit, a nice dress, or festive attire enhances the experience of national pride and energy. 2. Appreciate the Bunad: While foreigners typically do not wear bunads (bit of a no-go really), take pleasure in observing Norwegians proudly donning these regional representations of cultural identity. The sight is just gorgeous! I love it equally much, year in, year out. 3. Picnics and Togetherness: Celebrate the day with friends and family, engaging in picnics in the park. The convivial atmosphere encourages mingling, fostering a sense of community rarely experienced during the rest of the year. A great opportunity to experience a completely different side of an otherwise rather introverted country. 4. Attend Local Events: Many cities and towns organize concerts, parades, and other activities. A simple Google query will point you in the right direction. The day often concludes with concerts and fireworks, depending on the town. 5. Observations on May 18th: If you encounter individuals wearing bunads on the morning of May 18th, it's a fair assumption they've had 'fun' during the night 'nudge, nudge, know what I mean'.

  • Read: No, I'm not the only one; 4 more blogs about Norway

    Although I would like to believe it, I am not the sole blogger writing about Norway. And that is not surprising. There is quite a lot to tell about this magnificent country; the landscapes, culture, history, food and so on. At first glance, Norway may seem like a rather homogeneous society but significant differences exist among all the various regions. In the southern part of the country, close to the Bible Belt, one might strongly adhere to the motto 'in God we trust,' whereas in the north of Norway, 'in cod we trust' gives a good impression of how people feel about the (state) church and the general mindset up north. And then there's the enormous variety in landscapes. The lush forests of the south and the appealing coastal inlets, the alpine terrain of Jotunheimen and the tundra's of the north. And all these nuances and differences causes an endless flow of inspiration for me to write down everything I find so magnificent about living here. Anyway, I digress a bit. The reason for this article is actually to elevate the diversity of blogs focusing their attention on Norway to a pedestal. Feedspot has already helped with that by compiling a list of 15 blogs that are worth mentioning for their relevance and originality. A fun fact; HA DET MAMMA is found in fourth place. Of course, that's not the point, but the internet loves lists, and I am no exception. Therefore, it seemed appropriate to present to you my favorite blogs about Norway. In fact, as a relative newcomer in this world, I do look up a bit to these diligent individuals. For answers to all your questions (including the most frequently asked ones according to Google), turn to Norway with Pål 2. Highly organized and an excellent series of travel and accommodation tips expertworldtravel.com 3. of my favorites, and a topic that hardly gets covered on HADETMAMMA; social codes in Norwegian society. Very entertaining to read; the social guidebook 4. And finally, a guilty pleasure; recipes for excellent saffron buns, traditional Scandinavian fare, and fantastic sandwiches. Moreover, the tasteful photography will make your mouth water! Have a look! Moreover, I am naturally quite curious about you. Are you also a blogger, and do you write about Norway? Do inform me. It would be delightful to exchange thoughts sometime. Find me on the socials!

  • Destination: a beer made of birch bark at the foot of Jotunheimen; when in Lom, Norway

    It is, of course, a wholly pointless exercise to debate matters of taste. So, let me refrain from doing so. I cannot help but appreciate that my favorite beer is brewed in a rather new brewery in Lom (Norway), a tiny village nestled amidst a convergence of several mountain passes. The Lomb Brewery hasn't been around for very long, but you wouldn't know it. And that probably has something to do with the craftsmanship of the staff, the availability of exceptional ingredients, and the historically steeped location. The name of my preferred beer speaks for itself: Bjørk (birch). A concentrate of birch bark lends the beer a subtly sweet undertone. I must honestly confess that I haven't yet sampled all of their brews, but that implies I'll likely derive much enjoyment from them in the future. If you find yourself in Lom, do make a point to visit the Lomb Brewery at the very least. You can taste their beers, purchase them, and most importantly, feel free to inquire the staff about their products as they take great pleasure in sharing their knowledge. While you're in Lom, you might as well drop by the bakery for a cinnamon bun. There's a chance you'll have to queue up for a bit. That's not only because bakeries in this part of Norway are somewhat scarce but also because this particular one is exceptionally good. The optimal experience is during the quieter hours on a weekday. Sometimes, the hordes of tourists can strain the overall logistics there, leading to rather accidic comments on TripAdvisor. If you've had your fill of Lomb's beers and the comfort of a cozy bed beckons, consider the Fossheim Hotel. The building housing the hotel looks splendid and exudes a delightful aroma of wood. Besides its charm, this hotel also boasts the finest menu in Lom, offering delicately crafted dishes beautifully presented. Might there be any need to cleanse your sinfull mind, have a look at the beautiful Lom Stavechurch. It's ancient and magical! Lom is also an excellent starting point for further explorations of Jotunheimen and Breheimen. So you know! **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive either at Ålesund Airport (AES) or from Oslo Airport (OSL). Either way, public transport really takes forever, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Destination: blue-blooded alure in Dalen; a romantic fairytale hotel in Telemark, Norway

    Dalen has it all. A baker, a little supermarket, a lawyer, a fire station, and... quite possibly the most beautiful and impressive hotel in Norway; the legendary and historic Dalen Hotel. Of course, this is entirely subjective. But it undeniably exudes allure. In fact, if you have blue blood, there's a chance that one of your European royal or noble ancestors has stayed here before. When tourism in Telemark began to flourish in the early 19th century, thanks to the famous Telemark Canal among other attractions, there arose a need to provide accommodation in the form of a breathtaking hotel for the European elites. Among them were the last German Emperor Wilhelm, who later spent his final days in exile in the Netherlands, the King of Belgium, and members of Scandinavian royal families who sought leisure here. What remains now is a hotel with an ambiance and a blue-blooded alure that is unparalleled in Norway. A grand entrance, heavy leather armchairs, and hand-printed wallpaper. The craftsmanship of all the woodwork alone is breathtaking. They have various rooms and suites, all exuding the same stately charm. If it was up to me, I would choose the Dalen Suite. This is by far the most romantic hotel in Telemark, if not in Norway. Perhaps you decide to stay elsewhere, but it's still worth parking the car for a moment and taking a look. When in Dalen, Vidsyn Mydjås is a fantastic choice too. But be warned, once you're there, you won't want to leave anytime soon. They rent out two breathtaking cottages with amazing views. Additionally, there's a beautiful sauna and a communal area where you can shower and enjoy your breakfast. This is one of those hidden gems that you'll regret not having visited. You can book through AirBnB, but it's better to book directly with them. That way, the owner benefits the most. If you're on a bit of a limited budget, consider booking your overnight stay at the bed and breakfast in Dalen. The rooms are tidy and clean. Nothing out of the ordinary, just fine! What also makes Dalen a destination is an architectural masterpiece of a sauna, called the Soria Moria Sauna, designed by Feste. As you sit and sweat, you'll gaze out over the stunning landscape and the vast lake. You can pre-book the sauna for 300 NOK. For that money you can relax for 2 hours with 5 people. It's almost like it's free! **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive from Oslo Airport (OSL). Public transport really takes forever, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability. **Warning: Avoid the Buøy Camping. A few too many dubious reviews both on Google and Tripadvisor.

  • Music: it's all from the north; an introduction to Norwegian music

    I dare to call myself a fervent music enthusiast, with a strong preference for everything Scandinavian, and in particular Norwegian. When I was a kid, my father was really quite strict about classical piano, believing there was no other "real" music than classical. Even as an eight-year-old boy, I found this to be a rather extravagant and grotesque statement. It wasn't long after that, while alone at home, lying on my stomach, that I accidentally tuned the small radio we had to a jazz station. That moment changed everything. I fell in love, quite literally. I experienced a warm, pleasurable sensation in my stomach. It was a combination of euphoria, fear, and curiosity. Partly because I was afraid my father would come home and discover my extramarital adventures with the radio. I heard rythms I had never heard before, and the famous 'blue note' chords gave me the shivers, in the good sense of course. Over the years, my taste evolved, developing a rather specific preference for obscure music, which in many cases happened to all come from the north. Allow me to mention a few of my absolute all-time favorites: Esbjörn Svensson Trio, Nils Petter Molvær, Trentemøller, Tord Gustavsen Trio, Røyksopp, Bugge Wesseltoft, and Lulu Rouge. But I won't bore you further with my eccentric music preferences. Instead, I've curated a little playlist on Spotify featuring only Norwegian artists. You'll find plenty of pop, some electronic, and a touch of jazz. Not too much jazz, because I want to keep you here. Anyway, you hopefully catch a bit of the Northern atmosphere while planning your Norwegian adventure. Immerse yourself!

  • Destination: the battle of Narvik... to become an amazing ski destination in Norway

    The title of my article may not do justice to Narvik, or perhaps it does, in a way. It's true that the title might seem a bit unfortunate. But it is what Narvik is best know for (internationally). During World War II, Narvik abruptly became a part of recent world history in a rather brutal manner. It stood as a strategic hub, boasting an ice-free harbor from which Swedish iron ore was shipped. Consequently, it drew the attention of both the German occupiers and the Allies, leading to a fierce conflict. Nearly 80 years later, Narvik has once again found itself in the spotlight, thanks to the eponymous film "Narvik" on Norwegian Netflix (you might need a VPN to be able to watch it if you're not from here) which delves into the wartime events that left an indelible mark on this town of 14,000 souls. Narvik, situated in the heart of the Arctic region, primarily serves as a transit route. A railway from the Swedish mining town of Kiruna traverses the picturesque Abisko before reaching the export port in Narvik. There, colossal cargo ships dock to transport iron ore to factories elsewhere. Narvik is also where Finnish holidaymakers often cross the border and take a right towards Lofoten and Senja. With Tromsø as a major competitor in the Arctic region, Narvik faces its share of challenges. Nevertheless, despite various hurdles, I have a sense that Narvik is on an upward trajectory, evident not only in its record-low unemployment rate but for it's increadibly welcoming population. And...because of the following: Narvik boasts several superb and modern ski slopes, easily accessible by cable car (and a complimentary ski bus). The view you'll enjoy from your snowboard is unparalleled, and the ski passes are reasonably priced. How often do you get to have a sea view directly from the slopes? Particularly during the "blåtime" (the blue hour), it's truly magical. Moreover, you can take skiing lessons during the cold seasons. Since Narvik isn't yet a widely recognized ski destination, it's rarely overcrowded, and you won't encounter many tourists. And besides, snow and cold is guaranteed here. Which can't be said about the Alps anymore. For your stay, I have the most amazing recommendation that provides the best view money can buy (or rent actually) in Narvik: Camp 291. A series of lavishly equipped design cabins, located very close to the ski slopes, will turn your winter adventure into a wonderfully cozy experience. Due to minimal light pollution and expansive windows, you'll be treated to the finest view of the enchanting Northern Light s (if you're lucky - no guarantees). Especially in winter, you'll feel like you're in another world up here. Down the mountain, on one of the main squares, you'll find Fiskehallen, adjacent to Fiskekroken Restaurant. The highly enthusiastic and service-oriented staff here serve sublime fish dishes. It's not haute cuisine, but rather wonderfully prepared comfort food. This is precisely what you want to eat after a long day outdoors. Their signature dish is a must-try: grilled boknafish! How often do you come across a restaurant with almost exclusively 5-star reviews? Precisely, never-evah! For history enthusiasts, Narvik and its surroundings are a destination in their own right. Firstly, there's the war museum (which, shame on me, I didn't visit when I was there). Additionally, you'll encounter a war memorial almost every kilometer you travel. Moreover, you can go diving to explore the numerous wartime wrecks resting on the fjord's bottom. It must be an impressive experience to come face to face with the silent witnesses of Narvik's violent and now silenced history. Furthermore, Narvik is surrounded by magnificent natural beauty. Both towering mountains and coastal areas offer endless opportunities for multi-day hikes and fishing adventures. You understand by now. If you're on your way to Lofoten, look to your left, because that's where Narvik is. Especially in winter, it's a fantastic stop for a few days of skiing with the most incredible view imaginable. Still undiscovered by the masses, Narvik is on the winning hand in the battle of becoming an amazing Norwegian skidestination.

  • Destination: the cleansing effect of a church and a spa (the best in Norway)

    At the very end of one of Oslo's metro lines lies the district of Mortensrud. A quick Google search will bring up all sorts of information that does little justice to Mortensrud's image. House prices are considerably lower there, and the number of police reports is significantly higher than the Norwegian average. Having lived in Amsterdam for a long time, it has taught me not to be swayed by such information. And that's why I believe it's worth having more people visit Mortensrud, if only to experience the magnificent church that was completed there in 2002. Designed by Jan Olav Jensen and Børre Skodvin, this architectural masterpiece is truly a work of art. As a fervent admirer of architecture, I consider it to be one of the, if not THE most beautiful building in Oslo. If the church atmosphere hasn't managed to cleanse your soul just yet, then the nearby resort hotel called 'The Well' is just a stone's throw away. For a thorough detox from urban life, this is the finest haven I can imagine. A hammam, sauna, luxurious swimming pool, a Japanese onsen—the list goes on. I believe you could easily dedicate two days to this blissful retreat as it can easily be called the best spa in Norway. In addition, a visit to The Well serves as anthropological fieldwork, allowing you to observe the very special 'luxury-seeking-Oslo breed' in all its diverse plumage. I would suggest this to be the grande finale to your visit to Oslo/Norway. Check here for availability.

  • Destination: chronicles on a pillar and a fairytale hotel; at the foot of Galdhøpiggen

    When it comes to matters of taste, opinions may differ, but personally, I consider the mountain pass from Lom to Sognefjorden as the most exquisitely picturesque route throughout all of Norway. It's an experience that truly warrants traversing in both directions. Moreover, along this road lie several extraordinary spots, beyond the breathtaking viewpoints, where one simply must pull over and pause. And luck has it a rather surprising fairytale hotel is located close to Galdhøpiggen, Norway's highest mountain. This hotel at the foot of Galdhøpiggen immediately ignites the imagination of those blessed with even a modicum of vision. Reflecting upon this place, I am instantly transported to a realm reminiscent of medieval times. Imagine a vivid azure river, its currents wild and untamed, flanked by towering mountains on either side. Amidst this enchanting scene, one discovers aged wooden farmsteads, clad in weathered tar-coated timber, alongside dilapidated sheds and ancient stone bridges. The Elveseter Hotel itself feels akin to a living museum, adorned with a collection of paintings spanning diverse eras, antique tools, and peculiar curiosities. The entire complex exudes an atmosphere evocative of a captivating fusion between the cinematic masterpiece "The Shining," the ethereal realm of Rivendel from "Lord of the Rings," and the idyllic serenity of a Swiss alpine meadow. For an extra touch of romance, consider reserving the Omonstugu for your overnight stay, where you shall slumber in a wooden canopy bed—a rather romantic experience. Adjacent to the Elveseter Hotel stands a grand and enigmatic pillar, shrouded in mystery; the 'Sagasøyla' or 'Chronicles Pillar'. The sculpture adorning this pillar depicts a series of historic events that played a pivotal role in the formation of Norway. Once again, one cannot help but draw comparisons to the enchanting realm of "Lord of the Rings." Not in the last place, should this location be on your list of destinations. The Elvesæter hotel lies at the foot of Norway's highest mountain, which is a 'must-climb' for every outdoor enthusiast! **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Oslo Airport (OSL) or at Ålesund Airport (AES). Public transport really takes forever to get you there, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

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