Stay: along a magical fringe of Norway; heading for Finnskogen

On the south-eastern border of Norway lies a rather illustrious area that few tourists manage to find. An enormously vast forest region, which you can rightly call a true wilderness. This area called Finnskogen enchanted me last summer while I was looking to buy a property and gave me more than enough reason to warmly recommend that, when you're planning to come to Norway, you should head here. In this article I'll explain why, and I'll give you 3 brilliant tips for spending the night.

I stumbled upon these magical spots almost by accident, and they left me utterly gobsmacked, in the best possible way. And whilst you're on your way to Finnskogen, I'd like to point out a few small stops along the way, which you'll read about further on in this article.

The Forest of the Forest Finns

Finnskogen, known as the "Finnish Forest," is a vast wooded borderland between Norway and Sweden, famed for its profound wilderness, Finnish cultural heritage, and quite mystical allure. Nestled about 100 km northeast of Oslo, it unfolds across forested hills, tranquil lakes, and taiga landscapes, offering an accessible yet wildly immersive escape. The name stems from the Forest Finns, Finnish settlers seeking a better life, who made this woodland their home. A little shout out to the very first ever Forest-Finn I've met; my dear collegae Mr. S.

Their story dates back to the 17th century, when immigrants fleeing hardships in Finland settled here along the Norwegian-Swedish border. They built self-sufficient farms in smokehouses, practised slash-and-burn agriculture to grow rye, and infused the area with unique traditions like rune singing and forest mysticism. These Skogfinner preserved their language, folklore, and customs well into the 20th century. Today, cultural remnants, such as historic homesteads, dot the landscape, whispering tales of their resilient legacy. Quite fascinating if you're a history nerd such as myself.

Wildlife and amazing hikes in Finnskogen

Picture true wilderness, and Finnskogen springs to mind. It's teeming with a massive moose population, but that's just the start. Things get rather thrilling with brown bears although rare, foxes, wolves, and lynx prowling the undergrowth. Birdwatchers will be in absolute paradise too. September and October are peak season for moose safaris, as these giants follow predictable routes. I'd recommend booking a local guide, they know exactly where and when your chances are highest.

And other than that you'll find countless beautiful lakes where you won't encounter a single soul and there's just hundreds of gorgeous hiking trails of which you can find most of on UT.no.IIt is truly a paradise for anyone who loves the outdoors and wild camping

Where to Stay in Finnskogen

Farm turned wilderness inn

Let me start with Gravberget Gård, a charming small-scale countryside inn in northern Finnskogen's Våler municipality. Built in 1858 by the Kiær family as a logging manager's residence, it's stood for over 150 years at the heart of forest village life. Now, it's a delightful guesthouse, perfect for exploring the area further.

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A historic wellness hotel

Finnskogtoppen is a wellness hotel in the forests of Finnskogen, Norway, with views over Lake Røgden. It combines luxury accommodation with nature, tranquillity and Finnish heritage, what Finnskogen is so famous for.

You'll enjoy comfortable rooms, and extensive wellness facilities such as a swimming pool, saunas, whirlpool and spa treatments. The daily programme includes yoga, aqua-gym, walks and cultural tours. Ideal for a relaxing stay in a serene Scandinavian setting, with friendly service and a focus on well-being. An excellent destination to lower your pulse and get your cortisol under control. The latter was a reason for me to spend a few nights here.

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Amongst the treetops

An absolute highlight, both literally and figuratively, you'll find in the PAN Treetop Cabins that you can hire. There is truly no better way, whilst lying in your bed, to enjoy the incredible views and the quiet magic that dwells in Finnskogen. I drove past them last summer by sheer fluke, despite knowing they existed, and they're hands-down the coolest accommodation along Norway's eastern border. Perched 8 metres above the forest floor, these award-winning cabins opened in 2018 near idyllic Lake Gjessåsjøen.

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Detours en-route to Finnskogen: Magnor and Kongsvinger

As you most likely cross the border at Magnor, a mere dot on the map, park the car for two absolute gems. First, the legendary Magnor Glassverk, born in 1898 as a Swedish offshoot fuelling furnaces with local timber. It evolved from utilitarian bottles to artistic masterpieces, collaborating with designers like Per Spook and Tone Vigeland. Join a guided tour (around NOK 150, with coffee and waffles), browse the factory outlet, or even have a go at glassblowing yourself. I found it all rather gorgeous what they produce.

Then, pop into Ingelsrud Konditori, one of the cosiest bakeries on the Norwegian border. They sell excellent cakes, pastries and bread. All home made of course homemade. I've been there twice now, and every time I am delighted by the friendliness of the staff. All of this combined was apparently all of this was enough to become a 2021 "Bakery of the Year" finalist. And this is big in the Scandinavias. Just saying.

Magnor and Kongsvinger

Finally, Kongsvinger: this Glomma River town in Hedmark grew from a 17th-century fortress to shield Norway from Swedish incursions. Kongsvinger Festning, started in 1681 under King Christian V, boasts star-shaped walls, bastions, and museums spanning 300 years, complete with tours and events. Stroll through Øvrebyen, the oldest quarter with charming 18th- and 19th-century officers' homes and soldiers' cottages along cobbled streets. It's the beating heart of old Kongsvinger. I bought myself a cinnamon bun and chai-latte at Kafé Bohem there in March, despite being far away from the modern centre, this historic spot, encircled by lovely old wooden houses, feels truly alive.

That one time I was in Kongsvinger, I of course also visited Kongsvinger's Kvinnemuseum, or Womens Museum, in the charming Rolighed villa. The countless stories of women's history in Norway, from pioneers like Dagny Juel to modern equality struggles are really quite captivating. More than I expected in a rather emancipated country such as Norway, to be entirely honest. The interactive exhibits and cozy café made it an inspiring highlight of Øvrebyen. It left me with a lot of thoughts while driving home that afternoon.