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  • Destination: animals; wildlife in Arctic Norway

    During the summer of 2023, we found ourselves without any definite vacation plans. I had already spent all my funds on not-so-fun-family-related trips to the Netherlands, and the prospect of going somewhere didn't particularly appeal to us. That is, until an unfortunate twist of fate led a friendly couple to leave their car stranded in Kristiansand. With time on our hands, we decided to seize the opportunity and deliver the car to the far reaches of North-East Finnmark. The quickest route would take around 22 hours, spanning over 2200 kilometers. Nevertheless, the fastest route doesn't always offer the most scenic journey, and opportunities to explore the extreme north don't come around often. Thus, we chose to veer off course near Kiruna, directing our path towards Narvik, and then meandering further into the North-Eastern reaches of Finnmark. It turned to be a journey spanning approximately 3600km. Heading for Havøysund Along our expedition, we stumbled upon what I believe to be one of North Norway's best-kept secrets: the tourist route from Russelv to Havøysund . Its allure lies chiefly in the indescribable landscape and the abundance of (wild) creatures encountered along the way. Within a mere 5 hours, we crossed paths with three moose, several sizable reindeer herds, a group of dolphins, a couple of reindeer carcasses, and, of course, sheep. We located a camping spot a kilometer from Lillefjord, a tiny settlement nestled in a bend along the road to Havøysund. Although it was late, the midnight sun ensured that daylight persisted. After a meal, an intriguing 'spouting' sound caught my attention. My initial thought was perhaps a seal. I hurried towards the coast to investigate, discovering before long the source of the sound: about six dolphins. I called out to my partner, and with admiration, we observed the dolphins leisurely swimming deeper into the bay. Shortly thereafter, something absurd unfolded. A small flock of sheep grazed near the shore. While not an uncommon sight, as the entire region is dotted with grazing sheep, somehow this particular flock managed to capture the attention of the dolphin troupe, which had drawn closer to the coastline. Whether intentional or not, I cannot say, but the dolphins commenced a frenzy of jumping and diving, successfully startling the sheep into a panicked run. Laughter echoed as the flock took off. Luckily, I managed to capture the comical spectacle on film and submitted it to the Norwegian state broadcaster NRK. They found it equally amusing and featured it on their website . The vast biodiversity and unspoiled nature in the northern reaches of the country prompted contemplation. As we strolled along the water's edge, I couldn't help but notice the copious amount of marine debris washing ashore. Much of this waste originates from the fishing industry, including buoys, fragments of fishing nets, styrofoam, aerosol cans, and shampoo bottles. Given the absence of municipal services in this remote corner of the world, it falls upon individuals to act responsibly. Hence, when you explore these regions, I hope you'll consider picking up a piece of plastic or a discarded fishing net and disposing of it in a proper waste container when you encounter one. It may be a drop in the ocean, but it's the least we can do. A brilliant restaurant at the end of the world This unexplored corner of the world is truly worth a visit. Aside from encountering the most amiable and accommodating locals and wildlife in Arctic Norway, you'll hardly come across anyone else. Reserve a tiny but charming apartment for a night in Havøysund. The ultimate gem in Havøysund is the restaurant ' Havets Smak ', meaning the taste of the sea. The seafood dishes they offer are genuinely exceptional, truly of the highest quality. And just look at the amount of people that have been at 'Havets Smak'. It's like discovering gold for the first time...at the end of the world. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Narvik Airport (HFT). From there public transport really takes forever, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Destination: when in Arendal; brawls and Disney whispers

    Allow me to dispel a myth right from the start. If you've watched Disney 's Frozen and decided to Google the origins of the name "Arendelle," you'll find that, indeed, the name (!!!) is derived from the nearly identical name of the coastal town. However, the comparisons pretty much end there. Despite the picturesque Arendal Disney appeal, with its beautiful centuries old wooden Sørlands houses scattered across rolling hills, the Disney resemblances are minimal. But as strange as the world can be, it still seems to be an impulse for hordes of tourists arriving in grand cruise ships mooring at Arendal's docks. The oldest part of Arendal. Photo by Roxana Zerni on Unsplash In previous articles, you might have read that I'm not a fan of cruise ships for various reasons, so I fervently hope that cruise ships will soon sail into the history books. While I do understand the boon they bring to local businesses, the environmental damage in terms of food wastage, toxic emissions, and shops filled with hideous mass-produced troll figurines doesn't bode well for the world in my view. Moreover, they mar the charming view one would normally have from the old town. And oh yes, mentioning brawls in the title was mostly for clickbait; however, it seems that occasional disagreements do occur on Saturday nights on the streets. And Arendal even having a bit of a reputation. But honestly, where in the world doesn't that happen? That being said (after all, it's a blog, not a scientific paper, and thus allows for outspoken opinions), it's time to delve into the highlights of Arendal. Because the internet loves lists, and I'm no stranger to them either, here's a sum-up in random order of my favourite places in Arendal. Bomuldsfabriken Kunsthall Bomuldsfabriken Kunsthall made my jaw drop!It's basically a former cotton factory repurposed into a dynamic space for contemporary art. My last visit was all too fleeting, and I’ve been eager to return ever since. What sets Bomuldsfabriken apart is its dedication to featuring both local and international artists. With exhibitions that change regularly, every visit promises a fresh encounter with the world of contemporary art. Beyond this, the museum is an integral part of Arendal’s cultural scene, enriching the region with innovative artistic experiences. The building itself, with its exposed brick walls and towering windows, creates a striking juxtaposition between the industrial past and the modern creativity it now hosts. This contrast makes for an utterly captivating viewing experience. In short, Bomuldsfabriken is unmissable when you’re in Arendal! Take that from me! Arendal Jazzklubb The mere existence of Arendal Jazzklubb fills me with joy. It's a tiny stage tucked away behind the central square. But behind the unassuming entrance door, magical things occasionally happen. Such as today while writing, Nils Petter Molvær takes the stage there. One of my all-time favourite Norwegian musicians. I first stumbled upon it in the middle of winter, with Arendal covered in about 20 centimeters of snow, turning it into a fairytale scene (no, not like in Frozen). I had previously attended a concert by Mathias Eick in Kristiansand and was so enthralled that I wanted to experience the exact same concert again. Luckily, there were a few tickets left for his Ravensburg album tour, and that's how I ended up at the Arendal Jazzklubb. I highly recommend attending a one of his concerts if you have a chance. Besides being one of the country's most gifted trumpet players, he strikes me as a remarkably sympathetic individual. Just the fact that he drives a green Saab from the 1970s tells me enough. The concert itself was incredibly charming. Knowing that his album was inspired by his family life made it even more special when it was revealed that a significant portion of his family was in fact in the audience (apparently, some of them live in or around Arendal). So, it's well worth checking out the Arendal Jazzclub's program if you're in the vicinity. The cream of the crop of the Norwegian music world performs here in the most intimate setting. Even if you're not as much of a music enthusiast as I am, you won't escape a bit of starstruck feeling. Tromøya While it's not officially part of the city, it's a stunning island. Especially the wide pebble beach is incredibly beautiful. It's picturesque in every season. Numerous burial mounds dating back to prehistoric times have been discovered here. For a cup of coffee and some treats, you can visit the most charming café on the entire island. Housed in an old farmhouse, surrounded by wild blooming rose bushes, it feels like a little paradise. Apart from locals, very few people know about this place. It's one of those spots you only discover through word of mouth. And what makes it even more exclusive are the opening hours, which are quite specific – a few weeks in June, the entire month of July, and a few weeks in August. So, be sure to check the opening hours in advance to avoid finding a closed door. If you have any wedding plans, Bjellandstrand Gård can turn your romantic ideas into reality. Otherwise, you come to Tromøya mainly for the stunning nature and the Southern Norwegian idyll. Plenty of campsites and outdoor activities for those who seek them. But you'll figure that out on your own, I assume. Unwrapped Butikkafé Just the thought of it makes my green heart skip a beat. It's by far the cosiest place in town for a cup of coffee , but also for your breakfast or lunch, I can't think of a nicer place. They don't just serve coffee; they also sell handmade soap, various kitchen utensils, and, most importantly, a lot of locally produced food. I sincerely hope that this sets the blueprint for future retail – locally produced, minimal to no plastic packaging, and run by passionate people with their hearts in the right place. Really, I can hardly put into words what a charming shop this is. If you're reading this blog post and are inspired by the courageous and inventive people running Unwrapped, you're obligated to pay them a visit... and take a bar of soap for your loved one. Kuben Museum If you're into museums, Kuben is an absolute gem. Here, you can immerse yourself in the history of Agder. Within walking distance of Arendal's center, you'll find KUBEN, where you can experience the rich history of Aust-Agder through exciting exhibitions. The "LIVSTEGN" exhibition, new in 2022, takes you on a journey through the Stone Age, Bronze Age, and Iron Age in Agder. From the arrival of the first people in the region to the end of the Viking Age – a span of about 10,500 years. In our exhibition, you can see some of the fantastic artifacts found in Agder during this period and learn how society transitioned from the Stone Age to the Viking Age. The "Enslaved" exhibition especially moved me. I guess it's because I'm all too familar with the history of the enslaved. Take that from a Dutch person. It consists of a three-part exhibition with slavery as its overarching theme. For Arendal, the story of Fredensborg is both local history and world history. The ship sank off the coast of Tromøy in 1768, and the wreck was discovered in 1974. The Fredensborg is considered the world's best-documented slave ship found as a wreck. The exhibition showcases many objects found during the excavation of the wreck. The final part of the exhibition deals with modern slavery, shedding light on various forms of slavery that still exist today. Old Town Of course, taking a stroll through the old town, called Tyholmen is a must. The buildings bear witness to the bustling activity that once thrived here. In fact, this was one of the most important ports on Norway's southern coast. Enormous fleets of sailing cargo ships must have brought a vibrant atmosphere to the town. From here, vast quantities of timber were shipped to the rest of Europe. The colossal fleet of sailing cargo ships must have brought about a tremendous vitality. However, with the advent of steamships, the relevance of Arendal quickly waned, and the town lost some of its vigour. Yet, this is precisely what gives the town its charm. The beautiful wooden cottages and street names transport you back in time. (Take "Gibraltarbakken," for instance. A group of Norwegian sailors found that there was quite a bit of bickering in Gibraltar. Apparently, the same was true in Tyholmen. That's why it's now called Gibraltartoppen. Whether it's true or not, who can say. Arendal Viewpoint and the Islands I can really recommend to take a lift to the viewpoint for a splendid panorama . You get a gorgeous view over Arendal and the islands off the coast. And please do board one of the many ferries is another delightful way to view the town from a different perspective. But, of course, these are self-explanatory activities. The Prison Hotel To truly have yourself 'caught' by Arendal's hospitality, I wholeheartedly recommend reserving a night at the prison hotel . Of course, I have no knowledge of all the obscure types who may be reading my articles, but I'll assume for convenience that you've never spent a night in prison. Well, that's about to change. It's a bit of a gimmick, admittedly, but a very enjoyable one. And all this in Arendal of all places. Naturally, you could opt for the usual path and enjoy a night's sleep in one of the ordinary hotel chains . However, what's even more enjoyable is renting a charming little microhome in Grimstad (just under a 20-minute drive from Arendal). This is by far the most original accommodation you can afford in the vicinity of Arendal and the birds will serenade you awake. I must acknowledge that I've only scratched the surface of Arendal as a whole. But I did promise to share my favourite spots with you. And as you may have gathered by now, I've been quite enamoured with Arendal for quite some time. I hope you'll share my sentiments after spending a day or two there. Let me know on Instagram , alright?

  • Destination: an 11-year cycle at its peak; 2025 is the best year to witness the Northern Lights. 4 locations you should consider.

    You may have caught wind of recent news if you're reading this in early October 2024. Perhaps you've seen reports that the Northern Lights were visible as far south as France. Yes, you read that correctly— the Northern Lights were seen in the south of France. According to accounts, they were visible to the naked eye and certainly with a good camera and a slightly longer exposure. And last night (11.10.2024) curtains of red and green light were dancing over my own home. The northern lights above my house The fact that the Northern Lights were observable so far south is neither a coincidence nor an exception. Every 11 years, the conditions for seeing the Northern Lights are exceptionally favorable. I'll spare you the scientific details, but in essence, the sun rotates in a way that a region on its surface with frequent solar flares becomes more directed towards Earth. Because of the 11-year cycle being at its peak now; 2024 and the start of 2025 are the best years to witness the Northern Lights. Therefore, there’s no time to lose to plan your journey north to witness this incredibly impressive phenomenon. However, as you hopefully understand, there are no guarantees. While you're preparing to spend an entire night gazing at the sky, it might happen that on that very day, it's overcast, or there simply hasn't been enough solar activity. Unfortunately, your travel insurance doesn't cover this, and suing the Norse gods won't be of much use as they do not speak any English. Nevertheless, as mentioned, your best chances are during the winter and early spring, as well as late autumn of 2024. Therefore, I thought it fitting to compile a list of fantastic locations for you that are not only worth a visit on their own but also ideal for Northern Lights viewing. Let's set off, in no particular order. The beating heart of Lofoten Trevarefabrikken is quite an institution in Arctic Norway. It's one of those places you immediately want to be a part of. You want to become a fixture there. You want to be friends with the bar staff. And perhaps, you might even fall in love. Well, it's a dangerous place because there's a chance you won't want to leave. In brief, what makes this place special is, firstly, its location—right by the sea, with mountains in the distance and a vast sky stretching above you (which is crucial when you come here to see the Northern Lights). Moreover, there's remarkably little light pollution because it's so remote. Additionally, it's a kind of cultural hub. If the misfortune befalls you that it's cloudy for three days and rain is beating against the windows, your trip to Northern Norway won't feel wasted. As I mentioned, you feel immediately at home here. As an interior enthusiast, I'm particularly pleased with how the rooms are designed— a bit 'rough around the edges,' as it's sometimes described. Still, exceptionally tasteful and unpretentious. The communal spaces also feel warm and pleasant despite the industrial character of the building itself. When leaving, your suitcase will probably be a bit more heavy due to the weight of all the beautiful experiences and encounters you've had at Trevarefabrikken. Arctic Romance If you're looking for more privacy, I highly recommend the newly opened (September 2023) WonderInn Arctic . This tried-and-true concept of beautifully furnished and secluded small cabins, with fantastic beds and, more importantly, huge glass walls providing a magnificent view of the polar night from your bed, is worth considering. Here, you sleep with your curtains open so you don't miss a minute of what's happening in the sky. Or you observe the Northern Lights from your own hot tub. Nothing wrong with that either. Moreover, WonderInn Arctic is incredibly isolated, giving you a pleasant sense of insignificance. The nearest airport is about an hour's drive away (EVE). The Arctic landscape and the expansive view make this WonderInn one of the most extraordinary memories. This is a dream location with limited capacity. I'm not joking when I say that if you plan to come to Norway next winter, it's advisable to book your overnight stay here now. Regular hotels might still have a bed available, but these exceptional places sell out. Better safe than sorry! Stargazing from your own bed Aera - Panorama Glass Lodge is a place in the same class as WonderInn, but here, the feeling of luxury and privacy is just a bit more significant. You sleep under a large glass window, in a very spacious bed, and you really don't need to leave your room. Here, you bring your life with you. Your dinner is brought directly to the cabin, where the staff sets up a lovely table for you, just like in a restaurant. Enjoy your private dinner while waiting for the Northern Lights to appear outside your window. You truly don't have to think about anything, allowing all attention to be directed towards each other and the tremendous window, with the opportunity to witness one of the most spectacular natural phenomena that exist. I mean, this is where I’d easily spend a week winding down and forgetting there’s a world out there. The end of the world Lastly on my list is Varanger Lodge . And now, we find ourselves at the very end of the world. I have recently fallen a bit in love with this area. Not just because of the unbelievable beauty of the landscape and the unique flora and fauna, but also due to a tremendous fondness for the Norwegians who live here. They are a different kind of people—down to earth, warm, and incredibly helpful. Varanger is a magical place. Numerous herds of reindeer roam around, seemingly unconcerned about people or cars. Anyway, I won't allow myself to be tempted again to write in lyrical terms about this part of Norway. For that, you can read what I previously wrote about Vardø . Varanger View in Vardø Wherever you decide to go, I wish you a fantastic journey, and do let me know through Instagram how it went and where you've been. I'd love to hear from you. **Getting there (or anywhere): it is most likely you'll arrive at an airport. In this remote part of the world public transport eats up a lot of your time. So it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Destination: southern charm; what to do in Kristiansand if it was up to me

    Norway you've heard of. Because that's why you're here. But Kristiansand might not ring a bell for you. I'll admit, it didn't exactly occupy a prime spot in my mental map either, despite being the largest city in the historical Sørlandet region (Southern Norway). With around 70,000 inhabitants, it's not exactly a bustling metropolis. But everything changes in the summer. It turns into a lively town buzzing with activity. I spent a good three years living and working there, and I'd be thrilled to elaborate on what I'd do if I had just one day to revel in Kristiansand. First things first; breakfast. To get your fill, you've got to make your way to a tucked-away corner of the historic center known as Posebyen. This charming grid-shaped neighbourhood is dotted with delightful old wooden houses that have miraculously withstood the ravages of the countless city fires over the centuries. The Odd Bakery is the crème de la crème of bakeries in Kristiansand. Their sourdough bread is a thing of legend, and their cinnamon buns and pastries are pure perfection. The Odd Bakery is nestled within Posebyhaven , a shared courtyard boasting a terrace and a stage where concerts regularly grace the airwaves, especially in the summertime. And don't miss out on the adjacent retro-style cocktail bar for a refreshing tipple. Surprisingly, despite all the modern gadgets at our disposal, this hidden gem still manages to elude many tourists. In my humble opinion, the most enjoyable shop in town is Design Kollektivet . Brace yourself for a kaleidoscope of treasures, including second-hand clothing, local artwork, and an eclectic mix of curios from various eras that are guaranteed to bring a smile to your face. Located on the bustling main shopping street, this hidden gem resides in a capacious basement that you might easily overlook. Buying a souvenir from here is way more fun than snagging one of those mass-produced trolls from some far-flung, (with all due respect) low-wage country. Design Kollektivet The KunstSilo , is most certainly one of the new cultural landmarks of the entire south-coast of Norway. It was opened in May 2024. This ambitious project, spearheaded by the municipality of Kristiansand, was about refurbishing an old grain silo by the harbor into a sensational museum. The Southern Art Museum has been closed for a while now, which has left art enthusiasts feeling a bit forlorn. It's well worth coming to Kristiansand just for a visit to Kunstsilo. The jaw-dropping architecture and the impressive Tangen collection are both stunning. After all, it's not everyday that Time Magazine mentions a small regional town and Kunstsilo as one of The Worlds Greatest Places of 2024! When it's time to dine, I would like to hand you two very different recommendations. If you're in the mood to indulge or have something special to celebrate, book a table at Smag&Behag . The menu is out of this world, the staff are simply fabulous, and the building itself (a former gymhall), not to mention the decor, will take your breath away. Oh, and be prepared to get a little greedy when you set eyes on their magnificent wine cellar tucked away in the basement. On the other hand, if you're after a more laid-back and affordable experience, head on over to Bønder i Byen (Farmers in the City). Their chicken salad is a known classic, and the rest of the menu is equally fantastic. They serve up honest, delicious dishes crafted from the finest local ingredients, and their enthusiastic staff will make sure you have an absolutely delightful evening. For a pint in the sun, there's no place I'd rather be than Vaktbua . The last time I visited, the founder herself still ran the joint. That energetic lady had an uncanny knack for booking the most phenomenal international artists to grace the stage of this tiny and cosy little bar. Trust me, it's the most chilled-out spot in all of Kristiansand. Some folks might label it as "alternative," but what does that even mean, really? Kristiansand is teeming with bars and cafes, but the best-kept secret, and also the most delightful, is Vinbaren på Mølla . Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the city center, this wine bar resides in an old building that's been proudly designated as industrial heritage. Not only do they serve up fantastic wines, but they also host a range of regular events, from crab feasts to live performances by local artists. Oh, and if the terrace gets a bit chilly and you're not quite ready to retreat indoors, fear not—you can borrow a cosy woolen sweater. That's southern charm, the very best version of it. After your final glass of wine, it's time to hit the hay. Having lived there myself, I only had to book a hotel once, and it wasn't exactly a roaring success. During the summer season, the room rates skyrocket and don't quite match the value you receive in return. Steer clear of overcrowded family-oriented hotels like Bystranda. My solid advice? Book your accommodation at least 3-4 months in advance. And if I may be so bold, I highly recommend the Radisson Blu hotel Kristiansand . It might not be the most cutting-edge establishment in town, but it offers the best value for your pennies, having undergone a complete renovation just a few years back. The view from the hotel is breathtaking, and their rooftop bar is an absolute must-visit for a couple of well-deserved drinks in a beautifully decorated mid-century style bar. The optimal time to visit Kristiansand, in my opinion, is between May and September. During this period, the city is vibrant, and numerous delightful events take place. However, it's essential to note that hotel prices, particularly in the high season, can be exorbitant due to Kristiansand being a popular holiday destination for Norwegians, coupled with a relatively limited number of hotels. So, you have two options: either book your accommodation at least three months in advance or plan your visit to Kristiansand in June or late August. Simple, isn't it? Kristiansand Norway; five minutes ago, a mere dot on the map, and now, all of a sudden, you have an itinerary that will pleasantly surprise you in almost every conceivable way!

  • Eat: the 5 best restaurants in Kristiansand, according to me of course

    Seemingly overnight, Kristiansand has burst onto the global scene. From CNN the Financial Times and Times Magazine, this small provincial town on Norway's southern coast has captured international attention. The catalyst? The spectacular Kunstsilo that recently opened its doors to the public. But beyond this architectural marvel and cultural landmark, Kristiansand is a delightful place to spend a few days. In fact, I spent a fair 3 years living there. When you arrive on the Superspeed from Denmark or your enormous cruise ship has docked, I can heartily recommend that you explore the culinary landmarks as well. In no particular order, I'd like to present you with the best restaurants in Kristiansand for lunch or dinner. Smag & Behag Nestled in a former gymnasium that was part of the Kongensgate school since 1899, this restaurant is a true hidden gem. The setting is immediately captivating. The beautiful wooden floor remains original, as do the beams supporting the roof. The building's character has been preserved with remarkable subtlety. Hanging ball-shaped light fixtures create an ambiance reminiscent of that huge dining hall at Hogwarts. The cuisine is exceptional. On my last visit, I was served a perfectly fried-on-toast halibut and stunning St. Jacques scallops with a delicate curry cream. Each dish is artfully presented, and the service is impeccable. It seems as if they do things with a fair amount of joy, and that seamlessly translates into their dishes and into the service they provide. Oh, and do have a peek into their wine cellar – stuff of dreams. The gorgeous interior of Smag & Behag Sjøhuset As a perfect summer afternoon winds down and hunger begins to stir, I wholeheartedly recommend booking a table at Sjøhuset. True to its name, the restaurant boasts a beautiful waterfront terrace overlooking a bustling marina. Boats come and go, the sound of seagulls and nicely tanned people are part of the ambiance. Unsurprisingly, their menu features an outstanding selection of seafood. This isn't haute cuisine, but beautifully executed classics – from skagen toast to an excellent fish soup. It's equally ideal for lunch. Imagine a crisp glass of cold Riesling and a platter of fresh seafood – this is the essence of slow Southern Norwegian living. Bønder i Byen Translating to "Farmers in the City", the name perfectly encapsulates their culinary philosophy. They exclusively use local ingredients, often sourced directly from farms. Simple farmlike-dishes are transformed into extraordinary yet very honest creations of great vegetables, meats and what-nots. Their chicken salad has gained a legendary status amongst the fine people of Kristiansand. If you have the opportunity, it makes for an outstanding lunch too. As you might have guessed, I really like how they do things there. Boen Gård Historically, Boen Gård has been owned by a number of royals and blue-blooded figures dating all the way back to the 1400's. And it later became a destination for prominent figures from the international upperclass, drawn by the salmon-rich river rushing past this grand farmhouse. In recent years, a magnificent restaurant has opened its doors. In fact, a Michelin star has adorned its facade, which is entirely deserved of course! They serve consistently exceptional dishes that might be described as Scandinavian cuisine with a French twist. The service is impeccable, executed with surgical precision. Their knowledge and respect for the location, dishes, ingredients, and wine list is truly world-class. I was once taken here for my birthday as a surprise – we were the only two guests, and it was magical. Pro tip: Book well in advance, as tables fill up quickly these days. Also, note that the restaurant is slightly outside the city, so consider arranging a taxi or just spend the night there because rumour has it that the breakfast is incredible too. Pieder Ro Located on Kristiansand's busy fishing harbour, Pieder Ro offers a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere. Perfect for enjoying a delicious meal without feeling the need to dress up in any way. They specialise in fish dishes served in a maritime setting. Expect beautifully presented comfort food – and I mean that as the highest compliment. Here you'll find an excellent beef tartare, fish soup, or meat from the Setesdal mountain highlands – a hiker's paradise and home to Norway's southernmost reindeer herd. Pieder Ro is very much a summer restaurant. During the summer season, Fiskebrygge often hosts fantastic live concerts, with boats filling the harbour and all of Kristiansand turning out to enjoy the atmosphere. This is the perfect moment to secure a table.

  • Destination: a beginners guide to the Helgeland coast; as beautiful as Lofoten, but without the masses

    When you examine the map and peruse the National Scenic Route of Helgeland, an absolute must to drive along, you might begin to realise that the vastness of Norway necessitates making choices. The country is incredibly expansive and teeming with highlights. In this article, I aim to introduce you to Helgeland—a region that I believe is underrated and a splendid alternative to the tourist-saturated Lofoten. By the end of this piece, I hope you will know: What to expect along the 500km long Helgeland coast Which highlights should not be missed The accommodations that make me yearn to return to this illustrious region at any time What to expect along the Helgeland coast As mentioned, the Helgeland coast stretches approximately 500km, with the National Scenic Route covering around 400km. This route takes you through a diverse landscape that is spectacular without exception. Expect dramatic rock formations rising from the sea, stunning islands with pristine white beaches, charming fishing villages, and fantastic hiking opportunities. Whether you are travelling by campervan or prefer camping, this expansive coastal area is well-suited for both. The best part is that few tourists choose this region over Lofoten, making it wonderfully tranquil and unspoiled. This isn’t because Helgeland is any less spectacular, but because various search engine algorithms assume everyone wants to visit Lofoten, leading to the islands being overrun during peak season. Add to that a slew of influencers who fail to look beyond the obvious, and you have a recipe for mass tourism. So off you go to the Helgeland coast! Highlights Islands The first highlight, in my opinion, is the beautiful islands accessible by ferry. I spent several days on Vega and found it hard to leave. The natural beauty is breathtaking, and there's plenty to do for outdoor enthusiasts. Other islands you shouldn’t miss are Lovund, Dønna, and Herøy. In fact, any island with a ferry connection is worth visiting. Be sure to check ferry schedules in advance. Relying solely on Google Maps might lead you to believe a journey takes three hours, only for it to take a whole day because Google doesn’t account for ferry schedules accurately. Caves Torghatten in Brønnøysund is an absolute must-see. This spectacular cave cuts through a mountain, allowing you to walk from one side to the other. The cave itself resembles a cathedral in size, akin to the Sagrada Familia. The climb is via a beautifully constructed staircase, built by a team of Sherpas who used their incredible strength and craftsmanship to create it. Truly impressive. Other must-see caves include Grønligrotta, Øyfjellgrotta, and Setergrotta. Hikes A hike to Rabothytta is as spectacular as it gets The number of hiking opportunities is too vast to describe here. I recommend visiting ut.no for detailed information on the myriad trails available. My personal favourites include: A hike to Rabothytta , a public cabin managed by the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT). It is one of the most spectacular public huts, offering views over a stunning alpine landscape and a jaw-droppingly beautiful glacier. The Vega stairs , one of the longest wooden stair constructions in the world. Take a large bottle of water for the climb, and once you reach the top, you’ll be rewarded with a breathtaking view of the Helgeland coast and the fresh breeze from the Atlantic Ocean. In an era of alarming climate change, environmental activists worldwide hold ceremonies to commemorate the vanishing glaciers. It is a poignant experience to visit a glacier, knowing that future generations might not have the opportunity. Helgeland boasts a superb array of glaciers, including Okstindbreen, Engabreen, Vestre Svartisen, Sulitjelmaisen, and Blåmannsisen. A word of caution: never venture onto a glacier alone or without a guide. Always book a trip with an experienced guide to ensure everyone’s safety. Food and Drink Helgeland Kolonial in Sandnessjøen Here again, the options are plentiful, so I’ll highlight a few spots where I had the pleasure of dining or enjoying a coffee. These are often places you might drive past, as they aren’t always prominent. When waiting for the ferry in Forvik (which can take 20-30 minutes), have a coffee at Forvik Handelsstedet . They roast their own coffee beans. I had a coconut latte-drinkety-winkety that was incredible. The coffee shop itself is a blend of craftsmanship, nostalgia, and coastal romance. They also offer accommodation and serve a local specialty, boknafisk! For a delightful lunch, visit Helgeland Kolonial in Sandnessjøen. It’s the cosiest and best spot for lunch or dinner. I had a fantastic fish soup and had to return the next day for some delicious paninis to take on my hike to Rabothytta. They also serve Villbrygg, an excellent non-alcoholic Norwegian drink, which speaks volumes about their taste. In Brønnøysund, while looking at the crystal-clear sea, you might see a large school of fish. Northern Norway boasts some of the best fishing waters in the world, and much of this fish is on the menu at Svang , an excellent restaurant with outstanding dishes and service. To Elise from Marius is a must-visit for gourmet food enthusiasts. It is arguably the best restaurant along the entire Helgeland coast. Though I couldn’t indulge due to budget constraints, critics agree that this restaurant is a destination in itself and critics are always right... Additionally, I recommend keeping the Hanen map handy. Hanen is an organisation representing food-producing farmers and agritourism. These farms often have fantastic shops offering high-quality products. If you see the Hanen logo during your road trip, it’s almost mandatory to stop and explore. Accommodation Basecamp Vega Choosing where to stay depends greatly on the type of holiday you aim for. Given the vastness of the area, it’s challenging to provide recommendations for every category. Nonetheless, here are five diverse accommodations that I would gladly return to at any moment in time: Lovund Hotell : A tiny island known for its large puffin colony, breathtaking surroundings, and unique island life. The rooms offer stunning views of the rugged coastline, making it hard to believe it's real. The hotel itself is world-class, with excellent service and a superb breakfast. Sjøgata in Mosjøen : This area takes you back to when it was an isolated trading post. The perfectly preserved wooden houses and warehouses are historical treasures. Some of these charming houses, as part of Kulturverkstedet, are available for stays, and Mosjøen serves as an excellent base for exploring the mountains and nearby glaciers. Base Camp Vega : A must-stay for outdoor enthusiasts. You’ll stay in rudimentary birdhouses with breathtaking views of the azure sea and towering rock formations. It’s the perfect base for exploring the UNESCO-protected beauty of Vega. Støtt : Possibly one of the most unique accommodations along the Helgeland coast. This location is steeped in local culture and history, making a lasting impression. It’s also a kayaking paradise. Helgeland Havhus : For an immersive Helgeland experience, consider the Havhus. Imagine a modernistic floating island surrounded by beautiful flora and fauna. Here, your heart rate drops immediately as you inhale the fresh sea air in the morning. This unique accommodation is in high demand, so book well in advance! As this was just a beginners guide, I hope I managed to convince you to consider Helgeland before falling for the beaten tracks of Lofoten. Believe me, Helgeland offers an array of experiences that rival those of the famed Lofoten, with the added benefit of tranquillity and the absence of massive crowds. Go, go, go!

  • Destination: 6 tourist traps in Norway… and 6 alternatives to turn your journey into something magical

    If you're remotely familiar with how the internet operates, you'll understand that our digital experiences are predominantly steered by algorithms and rankings. When planning your Norwegian adventure, these very same algorithms will undoubtedly guide you towards certain obvious destinations – not because they're genuinely unmissable highlights, but simply due to the intrinsic mechanics of the internet. Let me guess. Did Trolltunga, Flåm, or anything Viking-related come up while preparing your trip to Norway? In this little article I would like to point out that Norway offers far more depth and wonder than the obvious attractions and sometimes tourist traps dominating search results. Feeling a profound sense of duty, I've crafted an alternative to each tourist trap, helping you escape overcrowded hiking trails, overpriced generic establishments, and truly connect with everything that makes Norway Norway. Ready? Tourist Trap 1: Trolltunga Certainly, the view from that protruding rock formation is beautiful, but the journey to reach it is interminable. Subsequently, you'll spend half an hour queuing before your partner can capture that quintessential photograph for the socials of you perched on the rock. Then, you'll descend in another lengthy queue. Truly, it's unbelievably crowded and it'll easily take you 10 hours forth and back. The Alternative On the opposite side of Trolltunga, you'll discover a breathtakingly beautiful glacier; Buarbreen. Situated on a rocky outcrop in the middle of this glacier, the Norwegian Tourist Organisation manages a magnificent 12-bed cabin that can be booked in advance . You'll reach the hut via a spectacular walk that partially traverses the Folgefonna glacier. You'll awaken to a view of being on top of one of Norway's most spectacular glaciers – I nearly get goosebumps just thinking about it. It's that beautiful. I understand you might have only one day, given your original plan to climb Trolltunga. Therefore, I have a golden tip for you. Undertake an extraordinary hike on the glacier with a qualified guide – many times more spectacular than Trolltunga. If glaciers aren't quite your thing, consider a trip to Folgefonna National Park. It's part of the same area and truly breathtakingly beautiful with icy lakes, waterfalls and what-nots. And lastly, another golden tip, known to almost no tourists: After a long day outdoors, when hunger strikes, there's one of the region's absolute best restaurants located in an unlikely spot at the glacier's base. It's got a Michelin star in fact. Intrigued? Have a little preliminary peek . Tourist Trap 2: North Cape It is indeed the northernmost point of mainland Norway. But who cares? If you've already taken the trouble to explore Arctic Norway – which I heartily dare to recommend because it's ridiculously beautiful – I urgently advise you to skip the North Cape. It's nothing more than a sea viewpoint with an oversized souvenir shop. Moreover, it's completely packed with camper vans, motorcycles, and tour buses. The Alternative Instead of heading to the North Cape, take the turnoff towards Havøysund from Smørfjord. The road to Havøysund is of indescribable beauty and part of the National Scenic Routes of Norway. The landscape is vast and varied – from black-grey cliffs to pebble beaches, with the cold Arctic sea constantly in view. Several stops along the way are of particular interest, either for historical- or cultural significance, or exceptional natural beauty. Admiring the midnight sun on our way to Havøysund Take Selvika, for instance. It's a beautiful architectural installation that guides you via a meandering concrete path to a grill site directly on the beach. In the nearby vicinity, you'll find Stone Age settlement remains and early signs of Sami culture. What particularly impressed me was Roni Horn's artwork. First, there's the building housing the works, and then the works themselves. It's completely surreal to encounter such an installation in such a remote location on the world map. Unlike the North Cape, you can enjoy delicious food in Havøysund. Truly delicious food. During the summer season, you can book a table at Havets smak . Understanding that Havøysund exists by the grace of fishing, you'll realise that fish dominates the menu. Why people don't queue for hours for lunch or dinner here is a mystery to me. Tourist Trap 3: Flåm It's true! The railway section from the highlands to the fjord is spectacular. The area around Flåm is unique and spectacular. But no more unique or spectacular than many other fjord branches. The crucial difference is that Flåm is completely overrun by people in colourful raincoats buying out souvenir shops filled with Chinese-produced trinkets and nick-nacks. Additionally, one or more gigantic cruise ships are almost constantly docked or anchored. Not only do I personally despise these floating environmental disasters, but they also block the view. So is Flåm worth visiting? Ehm... not as a destination in itself I would say. The Alternative First, I want to recommend a wonderful hotel from the bottom of my heart. You could certainly call it a boutique hotel and in my opinion one of the nicest in the country. It's particularly small-scale. The rooms are furnished with great taste and love for details, and much of the excellent food as served in their restaurant is locally grown. The attention to detail and overall ambiance are quite unique. The reason I mention this hotel is that it's a 15 min drive from Flåm. It serves as an excellent starting point to discover and explore several surrounding highlights, of which there are many. I recommend driving the Gamle Aurlandsvegen and, of course, first viewing the Stegastien viewpoint. You can in fact see Flåm from up there, so 'check'! The Borgund Stave Church is also an absolute highlight. Take a stroll through Lærdalsørri – a beautiful small fjord village with a long history. Generally, I highly recommend exploring the northern arms of the Sognefjord. Remember Fjærland and Solvorn. What beauty, and barely any tourists. Tourist Trap 4: Viking Planet The part of Norway's history filled by the Vikings captivates many, myself included. However, Viking Planet offers little to the imagination. Out of curiosity, and because I write these blog articles, I once wandered inside. "Underwhelming" is the word that came to mind. There's nothing wrong with it, and the VR film is quite good, but if you're truly interested in the Viking era, there are so many more tangible opportunities that provide insight into Norwegian history. The Alternative First, I'd like to refer you to an article I previously wrote about Viking locations . It's a fairly extensive list of important Viking sites that are without exception all worth visiting. They're spread across the entire country, so wherever in Norway you plan to stay, you'll always have a chance to see one. But if you're in Oslo, you'll find the Historical Museum a stone's throw from Viking Planet. Here, you'll discover a quite breathtaking exhibition of various Viking objects found over time. The tangibility of these artifacts brings you much closer to this imaginative piece of Norwegian history. The impressive precision with which jewellery, weapons, and other objects were crafted made a great impression on me when I first visited. Tourist Trap 5: Souvenir Shops Don't misunderstand me. There's nothing wrong with a souvenir. It's pleasant to take something tangible home from your Norwegian journey. However, the abundance of generic souvenir shops selling Chinese-manufactured trolls, elk-shaped keychains, or caps adorned with Norwegian flags sometimes frustrates me. The potential for creative and original souvenirs is actually endless. It would bring me great joy if you returned home with something that truly speaks to the country and the experience you've had. The Alternative You must know where to look. When in Oslo for example, consider visiting " Too Many Prints ". Here, you'll find an extensive collection of extraordinarily original Norwegian prints, often produced in limited editions. From graphically stylised images of iconic city monuments to abstract monochrome compositions, the collection offers something for everyone. My own visit, undertaken with the purpose of finding a print for my new apartment, lasted about an hour and a half and was characterised by a continuous smile. Unfortunately, I departed empty-handed, paralysed by indecision. Too many prints! But let's be honest – an A3 artwork fits perfectly in your hand luggage. My point is: avoid those generic tourist shops and truly discover and support local artists! Tourist Trap 6: Lofoten I'm perhaps stepping on a few toes here. So let me immediately explain why Lofoten appears on this list. It's the crowds. Lofoten isn't exactly a tourist trap, but during summer, it's so incredibly busy that this beautiful archipelago groans under the weight of camper vans, small cars, and – not least – tourists who defecate everywhere and don't clean up their 'dumplings'. Additionally, accommodation prices are quite steep during peak season. The Alternative I'm tremendously enthusiastic about the Helgeland coast . Its landscapes are without exception spectacular, particularly the numerous small islands off the coast, each one breathtaking and unique in character. Moreover, this is a region that hasn't yet advanced far in internet algorithms, resulting in above-average tranquillity during peak season. The list of highlights in this illustrious region is too extensive to elaborate on here. However, the article I previously wrote about it will help you get a good start. The rugged beauty of the Helgeland coast Also near Lofoten, and at least equally beautiful, is Senja . A large island with a wonderfully beautiful coastline featuring rocky formations rising high from the cold Atlantic Ocean. The numerous white beaches are extremely suitable for camping, and as expected, it's considerably quieter than Lofoten. The essence of travel lies not in following algorithmic recommendations, but in discovering hidden gems and experiencing destinations authentically. Norway offers far more than its most-searched attractions, take that from me!

  • Stay: 5 of the classiest and oldest (historic) hotels in Norway

    I have a penchant for antiquity. I relish the aroma of aged books and tarred wood, love automobiles with at least a quarter-century under their belt, and find solace in jazz tunes from the era of the moon landing. If only I possessed more audacity and wealth and where born 60 years ago, I'd readily admit, I'd likely attire myself each day as if I were English countryside gentry. Entirely unjustified, pretentious and misplaced, obviously. I appreciate your honesty I hear you say... You're welcome. Well, you grasp the gist. This article delves into antiquity. Or in the charm of 5 out of many historic hotels in Norway, to be precise. And let me clarify right off the bat, as the Japanese may peruse this piece with a bemused gaze, for the world's oldest hotel undeniably resides in Japan, tracing its origins back to the year 705 (Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan). The oldest hotel in Norway, on the other hand, emerged more than 900 years later, its inception dating back to 1640. Photo by Jelle van Leest on Unsplash Certainly, in the ensuing centuries, tourism started to really boom in Norway. Particularly, European (royal) elites began journeying northward to be enraptured by the breathtaking Norwegian landscape, reaching its zenith in the 19th century. During this epoch, dozens of legendary hotels emerged all across the land. In this article, I introduce five, including the oldest among them. Hotel Walaker (1640) Utne Hotel (1722) Hotel Union Øye (1891) Dalen Hotel (1894) Tuddal Høyfjellshotel (1895) Walaker Hotel Walaker Hotel embodies a fairytale-esque allure in Solvorn, nestled along the shores of the Lustrafjord in Luster, Sogn. This historic establishment boasts a remarkable lineage, being, in fact, Norway's oldest continually operating hotel. And it shows. History oozes from its exquisitely adorned walls. Situated on Vetle-Vollåker in Solvorn, one of the fjord's most charming villages, I stumbled upon it serendipitously while en route to the Urnes stave church, having missed the ferry. Out of curiosity, we ventured inside and were captivated at every turn. In operation for over three hundred years—nearing four!—it saw the light of day in 1640 and has since remained a sought-after destination for guests seeking to immerse themselves in Norwegian history amidst the quintessential, breathtaking fjord landscape. Owned by the Nitter Walaker family since 1690, it stands as the oldest family-run hotel in Norway. Quite unique! Utne Hotel We journey back to 1722, to a quaint village along the Hardanger fjord. In that year, a remarkably intimate and charming hotel was established, which, as of 2024, still thrives. Utne Hotel exudes vivacity and authenticity, boasting a rich history against a backdrop of awe-inspiring landscapes—I refer, of course, to the natural scenery. Allow me to furnish you with some particulars: The hotel can be deemed intimate, with merely 17 unique hotel rooms, each exuding its own distinct character. The communal areas, too, exude a particularly inviting ambiance. The quality of traditional craftsmanship pervades the interior, significantly contributing to the nostalgic ambiance upon crossing its threshold. Then, there's its location, for this hotel holds its place for good reason. Utne Hotel lies proximate to mountains and fjords, offering a breathtaking vista of the stunning scenery. Hotel Union Øye Hotel Union Øye is a historic hotel nestled along the banks of the Norangsfjord in Ørsta, Sunnmøre. Originally erected in 1891 in Swiss style, designed by the Norwegian architect Christian Thams, it boasts a lengthy tradition as a destination for mountaineers, royalty, writers, and lovers. I mean, peruse the list of legendary and illustrious hotel guests. I'd wager a hefty sum you'd recognize at least half of them. Kings, queens, writers, poets—they all savored their morning repast here. You luxuriate in tranquility and serenity in a hotel best described perhaps as the Norwegian rendition of the grand Budapest hotel. Truly, so exquisitely beautiful and tastefully appointed. Moreover, the surroundings are breathtaking. This is bucket list material, believe me. Dalen Hotel Norwegians describe it as the adventure hotel. And with that, the crux is largely articulated. Dalen Hotel, a historic establishment nestled in the historic region of Telemark, opened its doors in 1894 and seems plucked from an enthralling children's tale of fairies, kings, and magical creatures. The hotel stands as one of the largest wooden structures in Norway and boasts a rich history as a beloved destination for European nobility and royalty. It has been preserved in its original style, offering a unique blend of historical charm and modern comfort. Each space is breathtaking in its own right. If you're contemplating marriage, this is an excellent honeymoon destination. Tuddal Høyfjellshotel Tuddal Høyfjellshotel stands as one of Norway's oldest and most charming high-altitude hotels, nestled on the sunny side of the majestic Gaustatoppen. Originally erected in 1895 as a high-altitude sanatorium, today, you encounter the 5th generation Gurholt family tending to the premises. I first visited in 2020 and was utterly enthralled by the ambiance. It's somewhat secluded, imparting an exclusive feel. The interior, too, is breathtaking. Creaking staircases, exquisite woodwork, and traditional adornments abound, rendering a leisurely stroll through its corridors and chambers truly worthwhile. Activities such as flatbread baking, guided hikes, and special events are offered, and the hotel is a popular venue for weddings and celebrations. Order an aquavit, settle by the fireside, and transport yourself into a century-old time capsule.

  • Drink: the best bars in Oslo, according to me

    The best bars in Oslo... This exercise, in truth, is a bit rediculous since taste varies. But I'll proceed anyway in an attempt to let you glimpse Oslo through my eyes. In a completely arbitrary sequence, I present to you the drinking establishments I hold dearest though regrettably frequented far too infrequently of late due to a persistent lack of funds, the result of escalating living costs. Fuglen . Initially, I frequented this spot solely in the evenings for an exceptional cocktail or a beer (they make an amazing old-fashioned). It was only later that I found myself drifting by during the day. They now boast a slush machine that crafts a splendid tonic and espresso slush. A treat for connoisseurs. Moreover, it attracts a fine international clientele alongside the more enigmatic, trendily attired Gen-Zers with intricate tattoos and principled canvas shoulder bags. I must confess a great fondness for mid-century interiors, and Fuglen is a remarkably authentic example of such. Dattera til Hagen . The most exceptional quality of this establishment lies within its clientele. Nestled inconspicuously amidst Oslo's most "international" district, it caters to a truly diverse audience. I'm not sure if this could be called one of the hidden bars of Oslo, but it's not frequented by foreign visitors at least. It's mostly students, hipsters, new Norwegians, and an assorted array of characters gather in the convivial courtyard to indulge in their libations. The atmosphere is utterly unpretentious, exuding an optimistic cheerfulness that becomes evident upon entry, as you traverse the artistically decorated corridor. Bryggeri Bar in Nedre Foss Gård . This is the haven for those seeking an unparalleled array of craft brews, hitherto unexplored by the palate, and for the sheer spectacle of its interior. One of the more unique watering holes in Oslo. The amalgamation of copper and wood imbues the place with a distinctly inviting ambiance. Here, in the company of a dear friend, one can discuss life's intricacies over a rich, chestnut-hued porter or a jaw-dislocating pale ale. And....the same building houses a winebar and cocktailbar. Ask around, because they're hidden, in plain sight. Kastellet . It is within these walls that the most exquisite cocktails are conjured, and the interior is a marvel in itself. A kaleidoscopic amalgam of design classics graces this metropolitan cocktail bar on the second floor. Kastellet can easily be called one of the more trendy cocktail bars in Oslo. Here, one encounters the more elegant and affluent urbanites - the Botox-adorned lips, the impossibly attractive twenty-somethings flaunting ostentatious Rolex timepieces, and the aspiring influencers, all order their cocktails here. Be not deterred, have a cocktail or two, feast your eyes, and then move on. Schouskjelleren Mikrobryggeri . Descend the staircase, and you'll find yourself in a dimly lit cellar that carries an almost medieval allure. At the far end, a substantial hearth smoulders, evoking an olfactory sensation reminiscent of its ambiance. This locale is steeped in history, as it occupies the grounds of the erstwhile Schous brewery. Here, one may savor splendid brews, and this spot remains a reasonably well-kept secret while being one of the best craft beer bars in Oslo. Blå . A veritable institution in Oslo, exuding a ceaseless vibrancy. A particular recommendation is the Frank Znort Quartet, whose musical prowess turns Sunday evenings into legendary affairs. Oslo Mekaniske Verksted . Housed within an antiquated workshop, this may well be Oslo's cosiest haven. Its interior is adorned with an assortment of curiosities - aged maps, globes, tomes, and posters. Expressing precisely why this place is so enchanting proves elusive, a sentiment captured most poignantly upon a visit during the early eve. Additionally, the amiable bar staff are a blessing. I frequent the place! Bortenfor . A realm unto itself. A bonus category if you please. The closest neighbour of Blå. Relaxed, chilled, stylish and excellent to spend a warm summer evening on the terrace. One of the more chilled bars in Oslo. HIMKOK is nothing but an institution in the Norwegian capital. Tucked away on the second floor, one would not even closely suspect to find anything here. And for good reason. This bar is ranked number 10 in the top 50 of the worlds best bars. Yes, you read that correctly! And that.... is just amazing! I resided in Tøyen for a while. It's a bit of a neighbourhood that the rest of western Oslo tends to turn up their noses at. This is undoubtedly due to its more diverse demographics. This perception is entirely unfounded because what used to be a windswept and grim square has now transformed into a hub of warmth and activity. This is where you'll find Glasnost ; a rough-around-the-edges but oh-so-cozy pub where the (trendy) locals gather for their tipple. It exudes a kind of homely atmosphere, adorned with a multitude of quirky decorations. I instantly feel at home in such places. You might get a drink served in a second hand mug. Be prepared!

  • Eat: My favourite Asian restaurants in Oslo

    Sometimes, I still yearn for Amsterdam, particularly for its immense diversity. Especially in Amsterdam East, where I resided for years, every 10 meters you'd encounter a different eatery. From Javanese to Jordanese, and from Cantonese to Iraqi—packed within 130 nationalities; what opulence. Yet, I must confess, nearly all my favourite dishes hail from Asia. Thankfully, in Oslo, multiple migrant groups have settled, unlocking the door to 'the East'. To somewhat elevate immigrants and the cultural and culinary richness they bring along, it seemed fitting to guide you through my favourite Asian restaurants in Oslo, listed randomly as they're truly all worthwhile. Listen to Baljit Baljit, son of an Indian immigrant, acquainted Norway with the vast richness and variety of Indian cuisine in the late 1980s. Continuing his father's tradition, he honed his skills as a chef. 'Listen to Baljit' became the moniker of his restaurant. Opting to focus on street food—dishes purchasable directly from food stalls—he crafted an extensive menu featuring diverse small dishes sourced from various regions of India. I emphasize this because the diversity within India is immense; failing to acknowledge it would do the Indian cuisine a disservice. I dare say this is one of the finest Indian restaurants in Oslo. At least, I've dined there thrice, and each time was superb. The ambiance is informal, prices somewhat manageable. The dishes boast excellent quality, taking the concept of comfort food to another level. Izakaya Navigating the fine line of aligning aesthetics with cuisine can often lead to a themed restaurant. However, the opposite holds true at Izakaya. Although I've never been to Japan, the credibility emanating from this tiny basement eatery is impressive. The dark wooden ceiling, decorations, and an overall curated shabbiness immediately transport you to another realm. The youthful servers exude friendliness, suggesting they're all part of an indie band in their spare time, evident from the uniquely dressed twentysomethings with challenging tattoos and canvas bags populating the bar stools. The menu is compact, each dish, in its simplicity, a masterpiece. Noodles so firm they could bounce back if dropped. The shiitake is delightful, don't overlook the spinach cheese pancake. And don't forget a glass of warm sake and sesame ice cream for dessert. If you're not convinced yet; it's always bustling, no reservations accepted. So, arrive early, or enjoy a beer at the bar while waiting. Yum Cha Hong Kong conjures up fantastical imagery. Again, a place this humble blogger has never set foot in. Yet, I feel somewhat acquainted through Yum Cha, an outstanding restaurant specializing in typical Hong Kong dishes. Firstly, the interior is stunning. Dim sum is naturally popular in Hong Kong and is served at Yum Cha. However, the precisely prepared Cantonese dishes are truly masterful. I made the mistake of ordering too much when dining with another couple. Underestimating the satiating quality, the table was laden with steam baskets, bowls, and plates. Miraculously, everything was devoured. My favorite was the garlic pak choi and the fried shrimp balls. Yes, and of course, the amazing dim sum. Yum Cha is somewhat concealed in a street rarely frequented by tourists. However, believe me, it's worth taking the metro or tram to Majorstuen. Golden Chimp Situated at a corner of two streets in the Grønland district, embodies the most 'international' essence of Oslo, subtly reflecting the rich diversity of ethnicities shaped by past armed conflicts. Personally, I find solace in such areas, though I understand not everyone shares this sentiment. Inside Golden Chimp, a wondrous experience awaits. The walls sparingly adorned with kitschy artifacts, peculiar images, and the occasional odd primate. This brings me to the name: Golden Chimp. While unsure of its origin, it brought to mind that (perhaps ugly but groundbreaking) artwork by Jeff Koons, featuring the likeness of Michael Jackson and that peculiar little monkey, found in the Astrup Fearnley Museum in Oslo. Overall, it somewhat resembles a fusion of a senior citizen center in a Chinese city suburb and a roadside eatery in a Soviet country. In essence, here you dine on the most delightful and extraordinary dumplings. The ingredients used are excellent and sometimes surprising. I would say these are the best in Oslo, if not in Norway. While unafraid of experimentation, they firmly stay within the boundaries of what I'd describe as comfort food. Dalat Absolutely fantastic. Let's start with that. If you're acquainted with Vietnamese cuisine, this will be a feast of recognition. If not, you'll never desire anything else after Dalat. What's splendid about Vietnamese cuisine is the marvelous mix of fresh and raw vegetables, herbs, and savory flavors. The blend of taste, aroma, and texture renders it incredibly satisfying. Thankfully, a relatively large Vietnamese minority resides in Norway, ensuring a constant demand for excellent Vietnamese fare. The eatery itself hardly garners attention, despite its prime location in the city center. But that's alright. Those who frequent here know of its existence as they've been here for the 8th time. Expect no influencer-friendly ambiance; it's truly about the food here. The interior feels somewhat bare but certainly adds to the authenticity. The people running the place are just the sweetest you'll ever meet. Opt for classics like Pho and fresh spring rolls. Oh, and it's not overly pricey. Also pleasing. Koie Ramen There's a stark difference between ramen and ramen. With the popularity of the Japanese noodle dish, numerous ramen shops have emerged, some with questionable quality. However, what's crucial with ramen are the noodles. Particularly that they're fresh and firm. In fact, entire Netflix documentaries are dedicated to the perfect noodle. Let them deal with that; the point is, Koie Ramen has consistently surprised me with the quality of their ramen. I dare say they make the best in Oslo, perhaps evidenced by the recent opening of a second branch. And precisely that second one appeals to me greatly. It's never crowded, the kitchen always bustling, perfect for a quick bite. The new branch is near the new Munch Museum, yet despite the prime location, few are aware of its existence. As mentioned, excellent ramen and swift service! Happolati Perhaps a tad pricey, but worth every penny, considering this might be one of Oslo's premier Asian fusion restaurants. I have no vested interest, having dined there only once, but it was an experience. Surprising dishes, excellent service, and a stunning interior, though subject to debate. As a former interior designer, I have a penchant for beautiful places, and this is one such gem. Andersen & Voll crafted the design, offering a splendid interpretation of Japanese and Scandinavian design while maintaining the grandeur of the establishment. Nonetheless, you're here for the menu. Presented in 6 or 8 courses. For me, 6 courses are more than sufficient, especially when paired with a wine package. Head here for a date; you'll be pampered. Katla Finally, we come to an exceptionally unique restaurant that scarcely fits within any typical category. The proof of this can be found immediately on TripAdvisor, as this establishment is not everyone's cup of tea. Complaints range from informal service to graffiti in the restrooms and an unusual taste in music. However, this is not a place for businessmen in suits or a certain type of tourist who expects everything to be served on a silver platter. In my view, the service here is actually quite brilliant. It is highly personal, exceptionally skilled, and indeed very laid-back but in a positive manner. Each dish is a highly creative explosion of flavours, inspired by Asian cuisine. Call it fusion if you like; I don't mind. I enjoyed a seven-course meal and was blown away just about seven times. The restaurant itself looks fantastic, boasting impressive artwork, large glass panels, and an overall raw character. And yes, hip-hop was playing. If you appreciate (pleasant) surprises although I blew most of them by now, do dine at Katla.

  • Eat: a goat in a world of sheep; the best restaurant in Oslo

    I am talking about head chef Axel Nordahl and his talented team of culinary wizards. Their restaurant takes its name from the street it occupies, affectionately known as 'Goat Marsh Street'. This is not any ordinary eatery; it's Oslo's finest culinary gem, standing out from the rest. Or as I put it in my title: a goat in a world of sheep. Ok, I said it. But there's more to unveil! You could read numerous newspaper articles to get a taste of their culinary prowess, but those accounts only give you a glimpse until you've truly savoured their gastronomic creations. So, instead of delving into the intricacies of their dishes or flavours, let me explain why this restaurant captures the essence of Norwegian dining (and maybe even the Norwegian spirit, if there is one). It all starts with its unassuming location and understated charm. Nestled away from the city's hustle and bustle, it finds its place in a tranquil and captivating residential area. (If my memory serves me right, I believe the chef comes from these very surroundings.) There are no flashy signs of "food," "restaurant," or "luxury." If the blinds were drawn, you might even miss it altogether. The interior design perfectly complements the exterior—nothing too showy or flamboyant, just tastefully refined. The tables display exquisite craftsmanship, as do the striking artworks. Exposed concrete takes the spotlight, in its natural state, untouched. But beyond all these elements, it becomes evident that this establishment revolves around culinary artistry and its devoted chefs. I guess that's why they've opted for a spacious open kitchen. In addition to their meticulous work, there's a sense of joy behind the counter. Laughter fills the air, lighthearted banter livens up interactions with guests, and an unwavering enthusiasm permeates the dining experience and the moments between the twelve courses. The staff, for the most part, share a camaraderie akin to friends enjoying good company. The speakers gently whisper the sounds of Metallica's " Enter Sandman " and 2Pac joined in on the stage too, bringing a broad smile to my face. Not because I'm a die-hard Metallica fan, but because they do things their own way, and they do it very well. I understand it might seem a bit unlikely, but I stand by my belief that this place embodies the spirit of Norway. At first glance, it may seem unassuming and introverted, but once you step inside, you'll discover a world brimming with creativity, delight, and attentive service. If you're planning a trip to Oslo and want to experience this culinary gem, I strongly recommend securing your reservation well in advance . The locals are well aware of Geita's charm, and the evenings tend to sell out consistantly, especially after I dared to call Geita the best restaurant in Oslo. And if you were to visit Oslo for a few days , don't hesitate to let yourself be tempted to a few more great restaurants.

  • Destination: a 4 days road trip in Norway; it's brief but it's possible

    Allow me to commence by stating that a 4 day itineray in Norway is somewhat on the brief side. Norway, being an expansive country, with very few roads going in a straight line. Moreover, each mountain pass is spectacular, every valley picturesque, and every local bakery serving the finest cinnamon buns. Hence, my aim in this article is to showcase and immerse you in what, in my perspective, renders Norway incredibly beautiful and spectacular. I have charted a route for you and selected four truly remarkable accommodations. In short, pack your suitcase, for you are embarking on a road trip! And the route does not traverse Oslo, where I will touch upon later. Day 1: You arrive in Ålesund, a magnificent city on the west coast of Norway. Situated in a breathtaking location with the deep blue and icy Norwegian Sea on one side and the steep snow-covered peaks of the Sunnmøre Alps on the other. The first time I visited, the temptation to stay was immense, so enchanting did I find it. The city is relatively compact, allowing you to get a good impression within an afternoon. The multitude of fantastic restaurants, coffee houses, and terraces make it tempting to linger for a few days. However, the title of this blog post suggests a bit of haste. Therefore, swiftly proceed to where you rest, namely Hotel 1904 . The imposing Art Nouveau facade belies what awaits inside; a very tastefully and modernly furnished design mecca that would quicken the heartbeat of any interior enthusiast. Moreover, the staff understands the precise meaning of world-class hospitality. Day 2: After a delightful breakfast, check out of Hotel 1904 and embark on a journey to Trollstigen. This is one of the many spectacular driving routes in Norway. The view from the lookout platform over the elongated valley is truly stunning. The journey itself to Trollstigen is breathtaking too. From Trollstigen, the road zigzags down (make sure to stop at Gudbrandsjuvet for a coffee), setting the course for the next overnight stop. Be prepared to frequently pull over and capture yet another photo of the breathtaking scenery. *01.07.2024: note that the Trollstigen road is currently closed. Here's the latest updates . Regarding accommodation, I faced a tremendous dilemma, so I leave that choice to you. Either stop at the Juvet Landscape Hotel , known for, among other things, the film Ex-Machina, or drive a little further to Hotel Union Øye , which can rightfully be considered one of the most unique and stately hotels in Norway with a rather legendary history. Day 3: Wherever you wake up, today the road leads to Geiranger , one of the most spectacular fjords, immortalized as UNESCO World Heritage, and onward to a tiny but legendary village. There's much to tell about the latter; in fact, I've written about it before. In short, this is a picture-perfect fjord village surrounded by beautiful nature. There's, of course, a fantastic hotel, or I wouldn't send you there: the Fjærland Fjordstove Hotel . Fjærland is also famous as a book mecca. For a few kroner, you can grab a second-hand copy of a major author here. Additionally, this is a fantastic base for various adventures, from glacier expeditions to kayak trips. And, of course, a visit to the spectacular floating sauna is a bucket-list item. If you have an extra day, this is the place to spend it (or an extra day in Bergen, that's also not a bad idea). Day 4: Once you've had your breakfast, it's time to set course for Bergen, perhaps the most beautiful city in the country along with Ålesund. This is the longest drive you'll make on this vacation, but fear not, the scenery is absolutely breathtaking. First, input Hopperstad Stavechurch into your navigation system. After a brief stop, continue towards the E16 heading for Voss, allowing you to take a short walk to Bordalsgjelet in the mid-afternoon; a spectacular gorge carved out by a wildly flowing river. Believe me, it's worth stopping the car here briefly before completing the final stretch to Bergen. Describing Bergen as a city cannot be encapsulated in a few sentences. I won't even attempt it. The abundance of charming wooden houses, great restaurants, beautiful vistas, fantastic museums, and cozy cafes make Bergen a destination in itself. Perhaps you might decide to spend 5 or 6 days in this amazing country contrary to the title of this blog post because it pained me a bit to rush through it in such a short timeframe. But we made it, and you've seen an incredible amount of beauty. Planning to stay an extra night in Bergen? Excellent idea. Treat yourself and book a room at Hotel Norge . What a splendid and spectacular piece of hospitality that is. I mentioned it briefly at the beginning; Oslo. Oslo is a bit of a boogieman in this piece. Because, truly, it's a very pleasant city to spend a few days, and by all means, do so. The reason I directed you to the west coast is that the quantity of spectacular landscapes and highlights is simply greater, allowing you to spend your precious time most effectively. Because we were a bit hasty, remember? **One last thing: it is most likely you'll arrive in Ålesund by plane. It is most wise to reserve a car (long) in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere.   Check here for availability.

  • Drink: a flappe-latte-drinkety-winkety; the best coffee on Senja (Norway) and a stay on Tranøya

    Honesty compels me to confess that we had, in fact, taken a wrong turn. Our intent was to seek out one of the scenic roads of Senja (Norway), and we had misinterpreted one of the symbols on a roadside sign as indicating the beginning of such a route. Later, it became apparent that this was the exit for a national park - undoubtedly worth a visit, but time was a somewhat scarce resource for us. So, after approximately 40 minutes of driving, we found ourselves at a T-junction. To one side stood an aged white church, and on the other, a flagpole with a fluttering pennant. The flag read 'Senja Roasters.' Suddenly, an urge for coffee overcame me. Or maybe not. Perhaps it was more a sense of complete astonishment that such an establishment could reside in such a remote location. As we parked the car, the intrigue deepened. Stepping into Senja Roasters , confusion took the best of me. Not due to a lack of comprehension, but because of the setting itself. The interior, the aroma, and the multitude of languages being spoken, all conspired to suggest a bustling metropolis. Copenhagen, or Madrid... or Boston. Yet, one finds oneself on an island, amidst one of the most secluded corners of Norway. The atmosphere is undeniably cosy. A couple of industrious Gen-Z’ers clatter away at their laptops, the proprietress tends to roasting beans in the back of the establishment, and a young Spanish twentysomething, who utters around three words of Norwegian, charmingly takes my order. All the while, gazing through the window, one is reminded that this is not Copenhagen, Madrid, or Boston. The coffee is amazing. Its flavor exquisite. And the mandarin muffin, equally delectable. Even though the primary draw is undoubtedly the exceptional coffee, I feel compelled to emphasize that there's something noteworthy about the person who has chosen to establish a business right here in a drowsy corner of Norway, and thus bringing back life to an area where the population has been gradually declining for years. It takes an incredible amount of courage. And courage, in this world, deserves far greater recognition. Thus, I call upon every tourist to ‘take a wrong turn’ and indulge in a cup of coffee at Senja Roasters. Afterwards, one can explore Ånderdalen National Park at leisure - the very park that regrettably eluded our time constraints. So I think I should rephrase. There’s no such thing as ‘wrong turns’. Not on Senja at least. I completely understand if, after perusing this snippet, you find yourself eager to spend a few nights on Senja. As luck would have it, in the summer of 2023, I discovered Tranøya; a tiny island nestled just off the coast of Senja. Here, amidst the backdrop of an ancient church, stands an extraordinary old farmhouse tended to by two sisters. In fact, they more or less grew up here. They've essentially transformed the island (Tranøya) into a destination in its own right. Beyond the blissful slumber accompanied by the gentle lapping of waves, this serves as your base from which you can explore the stunning surrounding nature, embark on boat and fishing trips ( did you know that the world's best fishing waters are around Senja? ), partake in guided or independent ventures. For the history enthusiast, there are tours offering a glimpse into the bygone way of life, and, of course, you can venture out with a kayak or a SUP board. There's something special about islands. They are like tiny reserves where authenticity and history seem to be preserved just a bit more diligently than elsewhere. Moreover, your heartbeat almost instinctively slows down. Allow yourself to be enchanted, much like I was, and secure a few nights in this enchanting paradise . It's so beautiful, it's nearly ridiculous. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Narvik Airport (EVE). From there public transport isn't really an option, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Clothes: Layers, layers, layers! What clothes to wear to survive the cold winter in Norway.

    Due to an enduring influx of questions, search queries, and inadequate and ill advice on the world wide web on what winter clothes to wear when visiting Norway, I shall guide you through three essential steps in preparing your wardrobe for a stay in Norway. Spoiler alert: it’s not as complicated as it may seem. Having lived here for nearly a decade, coupled with the insights gained from my Norwegian partner, I have learned from my mistakes so you need not repeat them. Firstly, it is vital to understand that the warmth you experience emanates from your own body. Clothes merely serve to regulate this warmth. While this may seem self-evident, many people are not entirely aware of this principle. As the title suggests, by regulation I mean retaining body heat during colder days, achieved through multiple layers. The goal is to minimize heat loss and prevent cold from penetrating to your skin. After reading this article you'll be entirely prepared for slightly colder, or massively colder days during your winter visit to Norway. And as you might have guessed; it's about layers, layers, layers! Layer 1: Underwear Let's start with the basics: your underwear. I’m not referring to boxers, hipsters, or thongs, as that’s beyond my scope. Instead, I mean woollen base layers, worn over your regular undergarments. This layer acts as insulation between your skin and outer clothing, minimizing heat loss. The primary reason wool is essential is its moisture-wicking properties, crucial on cold days. Moisture on your skin can cool rapidly once you stop moving, making you feel very cold very quickly. Wool, on the other hand, excels at insulation and is available in various thicknesses. Men often prefer a slightly thinner quality, while women opt for thicker ones. However, if you’re not accustomed to low temperatures, choose the thickest option to ensure maximum warmth. Over your woollen base layers, wear your daily attire. Jeans or chinos work well, but leave the skinny jeans at home as they leave little room for additional layers. Personally, being warm-blooded, I often wear only the bottom part of my woollen base layer to the office to avoid overheating. However, when skiing or spending extended periods outside, I also wear the top. I highly recommend purchasing several pairs of woollen socks before your trip. Explicitly several, as you might get wet feet, and having spare pairs allows you to dry one pair while wearing another. Layer 2: Woolen jumpers Sticking with wool, the second layer is your ‘regular’ overclothing. In winter, I wear my usual clothing over the woollen base layers, which naturally differs from my summer wardrobe. I am a great fan of woollen jumpers, not only the thick, intricately patterned ones emblematic of Norwegian fashion but also simple V-necks or turtlenecks. This layer provides extra warmth, and I heartily recommend bringing a woollen jumper. My favourite brands are Dale of Norway and Devold, known for their quality and durability. I own a Dale of Norway jumper from 1991 that I still wear all the time – it’s indestructible. For trousers, the requirements vary widely. For city trips, ordinary jeans over your woollen base layers suffice. However, if you plan to spend a night outside in Arctic Norway, awaiting the Northern Lights, invest in insulated, windproof, and waterproof trousers. The best brands for such trousers include Jack Wolfskin, Arctix, Columbia, and The North Face, which are widely available. There are also excellent Norwegian brands, but they might be less accessible to readers outside Norway. Layer 3: Jackets Now we come to jackets, where considerations abound. A good rule of thumb is to choose a jacket that is both insulated and waterproof. If you normally wear size M, opt for size L to accommodate the combined thickness of layers 1 and 2. The thickness of the jacket itself depends on personal preference, but with layers 1 and 2 properly sorted, layer 3 is less critical. I personally wear a down-filled parka from Urban Pioneers, a brand available only in Norway. Additionally, I have a versatile jacket with an inner and outer shell that can be separated, although it doesn’t keep me warm below -10°C. But a proper parka would be my best advice. You will also need gloves and a beanie. Choose gloves with touchscreen-friendly fingers to avoid exposing your hands to the cold when taking photos. Beanies are self-explanatory; I have several, but my favourite is a decade-old woollen one that effectively wicks away moisture during activities like skiing. For footwear, I recommend a good pair of insulated boots. There are numerous excellent brands, so focus on water resistance and sufficient height to keep out snow. Ensure they are comfortable on icy surfaces, and consider bringing anti-slip attachments for extra security. You’ll appreciate the stability while others slip and slide around Trondheim. In essence, dressing for Norwegian winters is all about layers. By thoughtfully selecting and combining these layers, you can stay warm and comfortable, no matter how harsh the weather.

  • Destination: direct flights from London and Manchester to...Stavanger; an unusual weekend break

    I dare to assume that Stavanger wasn't the first destination that crossed your mind when the wild idea of a long weekend getaway with your loved one or your friends took root in your head. Perhaps Paris came to mind, but that's predominantly inhabited by the French who speak exclusively French. Or maybe Amsterdam, but all the hotels there are booked solid with English-speaking bachelor parties. However, there are direct flights from London and Manchester to Stavanger. And there are solid reasons for that. After reading this article, you'll understand precisely why a long weekend in Stavanger is a brilliant idea. Let me guide you. Stavanger Airport is just a half-hour drive from the city center. Here, you pick up the electric car you reserved (you'll need it later, you'll see). Then, you drive to where you'll be staying. I have four options for you, catering to different price ranges but all equally fantastic. Accommodation Eilert Smith : One of the most unique hotels in the entire country for a hundred reasons. Here, you can have breakfast served in your room if you wish. This world-class breakfast comes from the kitchen of Re-naa, Norway's only 2-Michelin-star restaurant. Everyone working here has elevated hospitality to an art form. Something you must experience at least once in your life. The top floor of the hotel features a breathtaking suite with an exclusive view of the city and the coast. If that's a bit much, as I can imagine, the other rooms are also of absolute world-class, with breakfast in bed, of course. Utstein Kloster Hotell : Just outside Stavanger, a short half-hour drive away. This historically rich hotel has all the elements you'd expect from a hotel in a typical Norwegian setting. Beautifully situated on the coast, you have numerous options for outdoor activities here. Kayaking, cycling, paddleboarding, or relaxing in the sauna for two. Villa Madla : If you want it all to yourself, without the interference of hotel staff, Villa Madla is an excellent choice. As one of the most stylish and architecturally attractive buildings in Stavanger, it's a place you won't easily forget. I mean, your private pool, your sauna, and a spectacular sea view. Bring your friends. Hotel Victoria : Elegant sophistication encapsulates the essence of Hotel Victoria. Every element here is meticulously curated – from the exquisite rooms to the outstanding and incredibly attentive staff, not to mention the splendid breakfast and beyond. In terms of the overall package, this may well be Stavanger's finest hotel, perfectly tailored to suit every taste. Additionally, its central location ensures that everything is within easy walking distance. If you find the aforementioned options a bit too niche, then this is unequivocally your best choice. Food Re-naa : The culinary highlight of the entire Norwegian west coast. Words fall short, even for a blogger, to describe the magic the chefs use to conjure up the most extraordinary dishes. For ordinary mortals like me, this is a 'once-in-a-lifetime' experience. I mean, 2 Michelin stars; there are only 413 restaurants worldwide with the same status. Eg&Du : A delightful place for lunch. The fish soup is fantastic, but my personal favorite is the pickled fish dish. The service is excellent, the ingredients are mostly local and outstanding, and the prices are more than reasonable. SÖL : The menu here varies from day to day because access to local ingredients also varies. The flavors are honest and sophisticated, all in a tastefully decorated restaurant in Scandinavian style. The dishes are often inspired by Nordic cuisine. Honestly, I'd prefer to dine here. The service is excellent, the dishes without exception of high quality, and the prices are excellent considering what you get in return. Matmagasinet : Social eating at its best. Primarily a wine bar, the dishes they serve are comfort food at a high level. Especially if you're with a group, this is a particularly nice and casual place to eat and drink through the evening. Matmagasinet is a bit outside the center, but it's always busy. That is to say, particularly popular with the locals, and that's often a good sign. Also worth mentioning are: Restaurant K2 (beautiful food, beautiful ambiance), Sabi Omakase (the most incredible sushi you'll ever taste), Fisketorget (for seafood lovers), and Bakernes Paradis (a wonderful cozy cafe with a bakery; it doesn't get more Norwegian than that). Activities Preikestolen : Of course, this is one of the major attractions of the Stavanger region. And for good reasons. The 40-minute drive there is already spectacular, but the view after the climb is unparalleled. You might want to pray for clear skies because with dense fog, it might be advisable to postpone your visit for a day. Make sure to bring decent shoes (and a guide). Hiking boots are not necessary, but your simple Adidas sneakers might get wet or muddy. Gamle Stavanger : This is the oldest part of the city. The beautiful old seaman's houses now house many galleries and small shops. Whatever the weather, this neighbourhood exudes tremendous charm and makes you acutely aware that you are indeed in Norway. IDDIS Graphic Museum : As a big fan of graphic design and printing art, I couldn't resist recommending this. It's a beautifully designed but small museum where you get a nice impression of the most iconic graphic design that every Norwegian feels nostalgic about. There are also fantastic exhibitions by contemporary graphic designers and artists. Additionally, the museum is housed in a wonderful fusion of industrial heritage and contemporary architecture. Sauna: When you're in Norway, you owe it to yourself and the Norwegians to go to the sauna at least once. In recent years, the sauna culture here has experienced a true renaissance, resulting in a multitude of incredibly fun saunas in almost every city. In Stavanger, you can choose between Damp or Røkt (a bit rougher 'round the edges; but that's how I like it). As a fervent sauna-goer (I do it every week), I've become addicted to the natural 'high' you achieve when you jump from 80 degrees Celsius directly into the cold seawater. At some point, you don't feel what's warm and cold anymore, and that unleashes something in your mind. So if you've had a few too many beers and wake up without energy on a Sunday morning, go to the sauna, and you'll be back in shape after an hour. Speaking of too many beers... Drinks Øvre Holmegate: Stavanger's nightlife street where it's lively both during the day and in the evening. My favorite places for a drink are Hanekam and BlygeHarry . Beyond that, it's all up to you. In this small street, there's something for everyone. Espier Bar : Go here for an aperitif. A cocktail or two, preferably just after sunset so you can still see a bit of the city and the view. Besides the excellent cocktails and stylish decor, you come here mainly for the view. Pjolter&Punch : They shake the most legendary cocktails here. In fact, if you could take a master's course in cocktail preparation, I think everyone would graduate cum-laude. The Irishman : I probably don't need to explain this. And since I'm a big fan of old-fashioned pubs, this had to be on the list of recommendations. Of course, I've left many places and attractions unmentioned, thereby doing great injustice to the respective entrepreneurs. But this is a blog where, based on my own experience and taste, I try to inspire you, not least to ensure you have an unforgettable time in Stavanger. May the weather gods be in your favor and book your flight to Stavanger not too long from now.

  • Stay: agritourism in 2025; Norway as a champion of extraordinary farm stays.

    If you possess even a modicum of knowledge about Norway, it will come as no surprise that Norway has been an agricultural society for nearly a thousand years. Let's set aside, for the moment, the significance of fishing. The country is truly adorned with (former) farms. As urbanization and prosperity increased, the number of farmers able to sustain the farming life diminished. Faced with significant competition from abroad, the country began to transform gradually. To cut a long story short, due to the decline of small farming operations, agritourism in Norway has experienced tremendous growth in the last decade. In fact, I dare say that Norway has emerged as an absolute champion in the realm of farm stays. The level of creativity exhibited by Norwegians in transforming former farms into holiday paradises is nothing short of impressive. In this piece, I wish to inspire and encourage you to book at least one, preferably several, of these accommodations during your travels through Norway. I am convinced that this adds a unique dimension to your journey that cannot be found in any hotel. Certainly, there are hundreds of farm stays to choose from. To simplify matters, I have selected the most exceptional and unique ones (in my own humble opinion). In fact, I've compiled a top 5, a decision that might incur the displeasure of the rest of the country. Nevertheless, I'll take that risk for now. If need be, I may write another article later. Here we go, in no particular order: The epitome of rural romance seems to have been recently reinvented by Steinar and Yngve at Åmot . Åmot is the name of an ancient farmhouse that has been in the family for over a century. It has been transformed into a marvel of aesthetics, hospitality, and romance. Everything here is tasteful, from the décor and colors to the presented cuisine, not to mention the impeccable attire of the hosts. The attention to detail at Åmot influences the entire experience, leaving you impressed at every moment of your stay. Moreover, Åmot is excellently situated on the west side of Norway, nestled between the Sognefjord and Dalsfjord – an ideal base for exploring the stunning nature of this part of the country. And rest assured, there are still sheep. During my travels, I often sleep deeply, perhaps due to the plethora of impressions. Occasionally, I wake up not entirely sure of my surroundings. This may happen when you stay at Flatheim . The landscape alone is breathtaking, situated just below the tree line with snow-capped peaks seemingly within reach. Which is no surprise since Flatheim is situated right next to one of Norway's scenic roads; the Gaularfjellet Scenic Road. The rooms at Flatheim are beautifully decorated, evoking a pleasant sense of nostalgia. During summers, they run a charming little café serving homemade bread and pastries. Flatheim has elevated the essence of agritourism to an art form. For those seeking responsible travel, reserving a few nights here is highly recommended. Who could have dreamed of a Michelin-starred restaurant on a farm a century ago? Perhaps the guests of Boen Gård , as for centuries, elites have frequented the area for fishing in the adjacent river teeming with salmon. It's no surprise that Boen Gård understands hospitality, but what must be emphasized is how they have truly elevated it. As mentioned, the dinner is of unparalleled quality, prepared with mostly local ingredients. The service is equally outstanding. However, what makes it truly remarkable is that you can also stay overnight. This makes it an excellent base for exploring the beautiful southern coast of Norway, and the town of Kristiansand of course. And don't forget to encourage the hosts to share the history of the manor. The stories that emerge are astonishing. Huser Gård is just under 20 minutes' drive from Oslo Airport. In the rolling landscape, right by the river, it is a rural oasis of tranquility. The farm consists of several buildings – a residence, a barn converted into an event venue with a particularly cozy communal space. What Huser Gård is most famous for is WonderInn . They rent a series of completely different micro-houses: an igloo, a gypsy caravan, and a glass cube. Additionally, there's an amazing sauna right by the river that you can use for free. Last but not least, a herd of alpacas, a couple of ponies, two little pigs, and a troop of chickens. This is the perfect marriage of rural romance and Instagram. Brimi Sæter is quite an institution, and by that, I mean it's world-famous... in Norway. And for valid reasons. Besides world-class hospitality, there's a cheese factory, and the buildings and outdoor spaces are populated by all kinds of animals. You stay in a manner you couldn't even imagine in your wildest dreams. The attic (låvelofte) is traditionally furnished with a multitude of traditional beds. You wake up, and breakfast is served more or less at your bedside. Absolutely unique in the world and an unforgettable experience. Moreover, the food served is of immense quality, most of it homemade. The farm is situated above 800 meters, meaning you are above the tree line in Norway. From every window, you have an incredible view of the surrounding mountains. And the spectacular Jotunheimen is within close reach. I also strongly advocate for using the Hanen website. Hanen is an umbrella organization for food-producing farmers and unique farm stays. They have a handy map highlighting farmers offering overnight stays and the sales of locally produced products such as apple cider, sausages or superb bread. The Hanen logo almost always signifies a worthwhile stop. I recommend downloading the Hanen app before your trip. Many farms also offer accommodation, making it a treasure trove few tourists are aware of. I trust that this list has managed to inspire you. In fact, I sincerely hope you visit all the aforementioned destinations, as each possesses its own distinctive character and is situated in diverse locations across the country, each with its unique charm.

  • Destination: a list of 19 beautiful villages in Norway you've never heard of (but should definitely visit)

    Norway is an immense country with relatively few inhabitants. Consequently, the number of major cities is quite limited, and they are widely dispersed. However, nestled between these cities lie a plethora of picture-perfect and picturesque villages that seem almost too beautiful to be real. Moreover, for each village, I provide a fantastic accommodation option, allowing you to fully immerse yourself in the beauty away from the beaten path. Unlike many other blogs, I have actually visited these places myself. So, some first-hand recommendations here. Grimstad Grimstad is a stunning small town on the southern coast of Norway. It was the longtime residence of the world-renowned playwright Henrik Ibsen, who worked there as a pharmacist for an extended period. Additionally, this town, with no more than 24,000 inhabitants, hosts a branch of the University of Agder and the Norwegian Institute of Marine Research. Opt for one of the most beautiful vacation homes you can find in the region for your stay. Things to do in Grimstad: Enjoy a drink at Apotekergården . Indulge in delicious cinnamon buns at Hesnes Gartneri . Explore the history at the Ibsen House . Savor a fantastic dinner at Smag og behag . Tvedestrand A picturesque village where time seems to have stood still. Beautiful white houses and a small harbor where numerous pleasure yachts dock in the summer. The first time I visited here, I couldn't help but think of the Truman Show. Once you're here, you'll understand the reference. Stay at the Tvedestrand Fjord Hotel , located right by the water, which greatly enhances the perception of this beautiful village. Things to do in Tvedestrand: Take a boat to Furøya for a delightful lunch or dinner (summer only). While not in Tvedestrand, the Trebåt festivalen taking place in August in Risør is nearby. Nyksund This village on the west coast was completely abandoned in the 1970s but has recently experienced a remarkable revival, becoming a creative hotspot. In the 1990s, a group of German students and artists moved here. For lunch, dinner, and accommodation, head to Nyksund Ekspedisjonen . Mandal Mandal may be a small dot on the map, but it boasts incredibly beautiful beaches where I've spent many summer days. The village itself is charming. Stay at Mandal Hotel , but be aware that it can get quite crowded during the peak season. Things to do in Mandal: Visit the beautiful beaches. Indulge in treats from Edgar's Bakeri & Konditori , the best bakery in the area. Explore the Vigeland house , where the legendary Norwegian artist brothers lived and worked. Experience the Mandal Jazz Festival . Bærums Verk Former industrial heritage from the 16th and 17th centuries has been transformed into charming shops. If you're staying in Oslo, this is an excellent short day trip. Things to do in Bærums Verk: Enjoy lunch at Melboden , where you can sit in the sun on a picnic bench and enjoy delicious pizza and a cold beer. Watch young artists showcase their skills at the glassblowing workshop (especially on Saturdays and Sundays). Have dinner at Værtshuset . When the weather is nice, the garden is a picturesque setting for a meal and drinks. If you're with children, the tiny steam train museum is worth a visit. Visnes Ice-blue glacier lakes and a beautiful meandering river characterize Visnes. This is one of those legendary Instagram locations where many influencers pose with their back-ends against a stunning backdrop. Stay at Visnes Hotel Stryn . Things to do in Visnes: Visit the Briksdal Glacier (Briksdalbreen). Explore Raksætra . Drive along Gamle Strynefjellsvegen. Fjærland A picturesque village on the fjord, Fjærland boasts an enormous amount of second-hand books, a beautiful hotel, and serves as a base for various outdoor adventures. Stay at the beautiful Fjordstove hotel . Things to do in Fjærland: Explore the numerous second-hand bookshops. Relax in the floating sauna, ' Dampen .' Join Fjærland Guiding for mountain excursions and kayak tours on the fjord. Agatunet A gem of medieval fjord culture, Agatunet consists of perfectly preserved medieval buildings, offering an excellent glimpse into the past. Located near Odda, why not stay in Woodnest ? Things to do in and around Agatunet: Go on a cider tour, a specialty of Hardanger. Hike to Trolltunga , the iconic rock formation even featured in an IKEA poster. Explore the entire Hardanger area, it's gorgeous! Lærdalsøyri One of the most beautiful fjord villages, Lærdalsøyri is also home to the world's longest road tunnel. Moreover, it has become a destination for lovers of (vintage) sports cars, with several meetings taking place, especially during the summer. Stay at 29 | 2 , one of Norway's most beautiful boutique hotels. Things to do in and around Lærdal: Drive along the Aurlandsfjellet Scenic Road. Visit the Stegastien viewpoint . Explore the Borgund stave church , one of the most beautiful and famous ones. Vardø Home to a world-famous monument, Vardø is worth visiting just to see exactly that. The village itself feels like a frontier, incredibly remote, which makes it a unique destination in itself. Stay at Vardø Hotel . Things to do in and around Vardø: Explore Hamningsberg, a beautiful secluded fishing village at the end of the legendary Varanger road. Visit Drakkar Leviathan . Explore Vardøhus Fortress. Enjoy the view from Domen Viewpoint. Uttakleiv When you think of Norway, you might not immediately think of a surf culture. However, there are plenty of beautiful sandy beaches that become surf destinations in both summer and winter. Lofoten is dotted with accommodation options, so you'll find something suitable. Husøy (Senja) One of the more remarkable places to build a village, Husøy is a tiny island, fully exposed to the wind. It's difficult to imagine what it's like to live here year-round, especially during the months of darkness. While you don't necessarily have to stay here, I recommend booking a night at Tranøya for one of the most unique accommodations in and around Senja. Things to do in and around Senja: Explore Senja, one of Norway's most beautiful islands. Drive along the National Tourist Route. Visit Senja Coffee Roasters. Explore Ånderdalen National Park. Havøysund A tiny fishing village at the end of the world, Havøysund boasts the oldest evidence of permanent settlement dating back to the Neolithic Age. Stay at the Arctic View Glamping & Restaurant and enjoy excellent seafood dishes at Havets Smak during the summer. Røst One of the most remote islands in Norway, Røst offers breathtaking views in all directions. It's also home to a huge colony of puffins, making it a mecca for nature and bird lovers. If you're tired of screen time, this is the place to be. Stay at Telegrafen or Bryggehotel . Things to do in and around Røst: Visit Skomværkroa for a refreshing drink. Rent a stand-up paddleboard or join a fishing excursion. Å The name alone conjures up images of wonder. Å is also one of the most photographed places in Lofoten, and for good reason. It's almost mandatory to stay in one of the characteristic Rørbuer . Things to do on Lofoten: Explore Lofoten! Brekkestø One of the most beautiful and charming coastal villages on the southern coast of Norway. You'll hardly encounter any tourists here, just Norwegians enjoying their holidays, mooring their boats to enjoy an ice cream. If I were to build a house somewhere, it would be here. If you decide to stay, I recommend the Lillesand Hotel . Things to do in Brekkestø: Visit Brekkekjærhaven Kulturkafé . Explore downtown Lillesand. Røros Røros is one of two towns in Norway designated as "mining towns" by the king, along with Kongsberg. The town has preserved its old wooden houses and cultural landscape, earning it a place on the UNESCO World Heritage List. With its unique and well-preserved wooden workers' houses, Røros has a distinct character, especially charming and romantic in winter. Stay at the Erzscheidergården hotel . Things to do in Røros: Visit Røros Church. Explore Røros Museum. Attend the winter fair. Sogndalstrand An adorable little coastal town hidden away in southwest Norway. This beautiful village has hardly been discovered by the masses, leaving it beautifully preserved. Although it looks quaint, life on the southwest coast of Norway was tough in the past. You don't see much of that now. If you're spending a night here, Sogndalstrand Kulturhotell is your best option. Things to do in Sogndalstrand: Explore Brufjellhålene. Visit Helleren i Jøssingfjord . Solvorn One of the most picturesque fjord villages, Solvorn has a long history as a trade center, church site, and courthouse site. It's also the place where the ferry crosses to Ornes, home to the famous 12th-century Urnes Stave Church. Naturally, you'll stay at the oldest hotel in Norway, with a history dating back to 1650; the Walaker Hotel . Things to do in Solvorn: Visit Urnes Stave Church . Explore Galleri Walaker. This comprehensive guide should provide you with an excellent overview of some of the most enchanting places to visit in Norway, along with fantastic accommodation options and activities to enjoy during your stay. Enjoy your journey through the breathtaking landscapes and charming villages of this Scandinavian gem!

  • Gear: keep yourself dry and organised; why dry bags are a must when traveling in Norway

    Rarely does bad weather encourage me stay inside. On the contrary. The rougher the better. I understand not everyone shares my point of view. But if you're traveling through Norway with a backpack on your back, I would like to give you a golden tip on how to keep your luggage dry and free of moist in case you'll get caught in some occasional rain. In this article I'll attempt to explain: The importance of dry bags while traveling and hiking Essential packing tips for your trip. Dry bags Dry bags have comnpletely revolutionized my outdoor experience, especially in Norway. These versatile bags, available in various sizes, keep belongings dry and organized, eliminating reliance on a backpack alone. During wet hikes or camping trips, dry sacks ensure essential items like electronics and food remain dry. They are particularly useful off-season for keeping fire-starting materials like birch bark, matches, and candle stubs dry. Additionally, dry sacks help keep clothing dry, providing comfort with dry socks and underwear after rain. While some sleeping bags come with waterproof covers, dry sacks can offer extra protection. I frequently embark on journeys with a tent, and it is not uncommon for me to find myself setting it up amidst a torrential downpour. During such times, it is immensely gratifying to be able to retrieve items from my rucksack without the concern of them becoming drenched. Here is what I typically store in my dry bags: The majority of my clothing My sleeping bag Provisions Fire starters Electronics such as power banks and GPS devices Maps There is a variety of dry bags available in different types and sizes. Find the set that best suits your needs. Some essential packing tips Foremost, a high-quality backpack is of paramount importance. If you are in the market for a new one, ensure it will accommodate the type of excursions you plan to undertake. Gather all the items you intend to bring, estimate the required capacity in litres, and only then proceed to purchase your new backpack. Depending on the nature of your journey, it is crucial to compile a packing list to ensure nothing is overlooked. In this article, I offer you a head start by listing a number of essentials you might need while travelling through Norway.

  • Eat: in abundance; picking mushrooms in Norway

    If you find yourself wandering through a random forest in Norway between late August and late October, chances are you'll stumble upon a plethora of mushrooms, many of which are edible and many grow in abundance. Much like many, I've become utterly addicted to the pursuit and picking of mushrooms. In other words, that part of my brain where reward is exchanged for a dopamine shot now understands that finding mushrooms equals a dose of happiness. To cut a long story short, discovering a large group of orange-yellow chanterelles after half an hour of searching is incredibly satisfying. And it's not just about the joy of discovery; the taste is phenomenal. Most edible mushrooms also come with a host of health benefits, but more on that later. The purpose of this piece is to share some more tips and trics on picking mushrooms in Norway, harvesting etiquette, and a few tools to make foraging in the woods easier and more rewarding. Admit it, how delightful is it to eat your own picked mushrooms while camping? How to pick the best mushrooms My preferred mushrooms, commonly found in Norway, include chanterelles, black trumpet mushrooms, funnel chanterelle and porcupine mushroom. While there are general guidelines on where to find them, luck plays a significant role. I've discovered most chanterelles near coniferous trees, on sparser ground, or in the forest amidst grass. When mushroom hunting, you don't need to be a mycology professor to distinguish between edible and non-edible varieties. This incredibly handy booklet written by Danish mushroom professor Jens H. Petersen, provides detailed descriptions of edible mushrooms and their look-alikes (which might be toxic). It has been invaluable because doubts can sometimes creep in, especially when hearing tales of organ failure two days after consuming a certain mushroom. However, fear not; sticking to mushrooms that have no resemblance to anything harmful keeps you on the safe side. If in doubt, you can even download this app . Upload a photo of the mushroom, and you'll receive an immediate message about its edibility or if you should steer clear. The benefits of mushrooms Apart from the joy of searching and finding mushrooms, there's another crucial reason to elevate mushroom foraging to a hobby—its benefits for your body and health. Mushrooms are a low-calorie food packed with essential vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. They're recognized as a vital part of a healthy diet. UV-exposed mushrooms are a good source of vitamin D, crucial for bone and immune health. Cremini mushrooms are an excellent source of zinc, vital for the immune system and optimal growth in infants and children. Mushrooms contribute to lowering blood pressure due to their potassium content, countering the negative effects of sodium. Additionally, their anti-inflammatory properties boost the efficiency of the immune system, thanks to high levels of selenium, vitamin D, and vitamin B6. Studies have shown that, in combination with exercise and lifestyle changes, mushrooms can aid weight loss. Antioxidants in mushrooms may enhance cells' defense systems, protecting against obesity-related issues. Mushrooms, rich in fiber, protein, and antioxidants, may reduce the risk of serious health conditions such as Alzheimer's, heart disease, cancer, and diabetes. Practical tips and tools For harvesting and storing mushrooms, it's handy to bring a knife and a brush . Cut the mushroom close to the ground with the knife, and use the brush to clean off the soil. Carrying a net is also useful for allowing sufficient air circulation, keeping the mushrooms in good condition. When I gather large quantities, I often dry them by laying them on parchment paper and letting them air dry or using a convection oven set to 50 degrees Celsius. Ensure the oven is slightly ajar to let the evaporated moisture escape. Once completely dry, store them in an airtight jar for use in fantastic risottos or pasta dishes througout the winter. But there's a good chance you're out and about with a tent or camper. This means you'll likely devour your freshly picked mushrooms right away. I won't bore you with endless recipes, as others are far more adept at that. Instead, watch this video by the utterly charming chef Max Mari ola and let yourself be inspired. Some toast, some salt and pepper, a slice of cured meat...mmmmm!

  • Stay: when a musician sets the tone; The Arctic Hideaway

    When you pour the thoughts and dreams of a musician (Håvard Lund), the conceptual and architectural vision of a pair of architects, Rintala and Eggertson , and a cluster of abandoned small islands into a tumbler glass, add a cube of ice, and gently stir, something extraordinary must surely emerge. And so it happened. I don't know much beyond what can be gleaned from the written word, for I was not there. But I can imagine that this is roughly what transpired. A group of creative souls gathered around a kitchen table, sketching ideas with pencils under a bright lamp. The exact details of the process and those present are somewhat inconsequential. The fact remains that you can visit this place, stay there, and it is undoubtedly the most desolate experience you will encounter in this magnificent country; The Arctic Hideaway. The seven small buildings were conceived and designed by architecture students. To reach this destination, you must first embark on a ferry ride, venturing so far that you truly feel transported to another world. Hence, I wholeheartedly recommend this place to anyone who has toiled relentlessly in recent years and yearns for a slower heartbeat. The cottages are modern, yet somewhat simple. This means that, among other things, if you need to use the restroom at night, you have to walk to the main building. But who cares? It suits the nature of this destination. What should you bring? Woolen sweaters, regardless of the season. Be prepared for wind and rain. And pack swimwear for the sauna. You can either rent separate cottages or the entire perimeter if you wish a more private stay . This is a destination that knows no equal. It really doesn’t. Simply marvelous!

  • Drink: Coffee on a Norwegian mountaintop; how I make coffee while hiking

    As an avid enthusiast of the great outdoors, I easily forgo a myriad of daily trivial luxuries. When embarking on multi-day hikes in Norway, I carry only the absolute essentials. However, the one luxury I never relinquish is coffee. I just NEED my coffee while hiking. I always bring a small ziplock bag of coffee that I grind at home before setting off. In the morning, I prefer to kindle an open fire to boil my coffee water. However, if it’s rainy or the midst of summer, I resort to using my Primus stove. Being somewhat of a romantic (and a bit of a traditionalist), an open fire brings me the greatest satisfaction. Allow me to share my favourite coffee options for when I crawl out of my sleeping bag in the morning. Anyway, here are my three recommendations: Finalpress This tiny device weighs next to nothing, yet allows me to brew a delightful cup of fresh coffee in the morning. At home, I always use a percolator and freshly ground Arabica beans for my coffee. The Finalpress comes closest in terms of experience and taste, giving me a sense of home even when I’m perched on a chilly mountaintop. As I mentioned, it’s small, sturdy, inexpensive, and easy to carry. Stanley The Camp Pour Over Set If I have a bit more space in my backpack, I bring my Stanley Pour Over Set set, although this is a rare occurrence. I usually only pack it for day hikes. This product is more suited for use alongside a kettle in your workshop or garage, preventing you from having to enter the house with dirty hands. Nonetheless, it has become a trusty companion on tours. Using my Primus stove, I boil some water sourced from a stream and swiftly pour it over my ground coffee beans. Moreover, Stanley products are renowned for their durability, lasting a century, so why not bring it along? Wacaco Nanopresso My father-in-law is a gadget aficionado, so it was no surprise when he gifted me a Wacaco espresso machine last year. I must admit, it produces a marvellous and robust espresso. Perhaps it’s my age and generation, but I am adamant about not creating more waste than I already do. This device requires Nespresso or similar capsules, which I find a step too far, especially on a mountaintop. All that waste needs to be carried back down the mountain and disposed of properly. Therefore, while the coffee is excellent, it feels somewhat superfluous to me.

  • Stay: a grandiloquent list of the 15 most special hotels in Norway: the best places to stay

    As the title promises, this list comprises the utmost in hotels and best places to stay in Norway one could possibly envision. Strangely enough, I had to leave quite a few hotels unmentioned. However, when you're in the midst of planning your journey to Norway and decide to reserve a night at one or more of the establishments below, rest assured, you're guaranteeing yourself an exceptional stay. Let us set off (in no particular order). Juvet Landscape Hotel : A pinnacle of modern (landscape) architecture, this establishment stands as one of the most iconic expressions of contemporary design. When you stay here, a glass wall is the only barrier separating you from the spectacular Norwegian landscape. Towering mountain peaks, a swiftly flowing river, and lush vegetation surround you. Moreover, you reside on the edge of one of the country's most epic highways, featuring Trollstigen and Gudbrandsjuvet. Primarily, this hotel serves as a canvas for an ever-changing exhibition of seasons: a forest so green it almost hurts your eyes, water from the rushing river so blue it appears dyed, and mountain slopes disappearing into the depths. Hotel Union Øye : A legendary hotel of unparalleled beauty, Union Øye is a place where I would don my Tweed jacket, meticulously polish my leather Chelsea boots, and tuck a Tolstoy novel into my suitcase. The illustrious history of this establishment is evidenced by the notable list of historical figures who graced its premises. Among them, Emperor Wilhelm (that illustrious figure with the unique arm) ordered a cup of coffee, Karen Blixen indulged in Eggs Benedict, and Roald Amundsen, either before or after reaching the North Pole, savored a glass of whisky as a reward for his efforts. Depending on where in the world you are reading this blog, these anecdotes may hold varying significance. After all, I pen this from a European perspective. It cannot be denied that Hotel Union Øye finds itself on a list of places with exceptional allure from a bygone era. In an age of endless reels and anonymous comments, this establishment is a breath of fresh air. Sommerro : The new kid on the block, boldly ascending the lists of the most fantastic hotels with great panache. If your weekend inclines towards a sincere proposal, perhaps in the form of a marriage proposal or something similar, then this is the place to do it. Words, unfortunately, fall short when summarizing the opulence and lavishness that this establishment bestows upon its patrons. A personal favorite within its confines is the exquisite bar, Ekspedisjons Hallen, an artifact reminiscent of the vibrant 1920s. Here, an atmosphere of elegance unfolds without descending into the obscene. The art-deco interiors transport you to another era, amplified by the live jazz—an auditory treat that cocoons you in a space where time seems reluctant to escape. Picture spending an evening there with your beloved, leisurely swirling ice cubes in your ice-cold amaretto sour. If this hotel were an actress, it would undoubtedly be Eva Green. Åmot Hotell : Here, you immerse yourself in a kind of rural-chic on steroids. Not only is the hotel far removed from anything remotely resembling a city, but the entire setting is one that defies easy expression in words. The spaces are adorned with a seemingly effortless nonchalance, yet with a keen sense of style and composition, enveloped in a sort of rural chic aesthetic. I almost dare to label it as un-Norwegian, but that would be a mischaracterization. I believe it encapsulates the identity that adorns contemporary Norway – a departure from flashy sports cars, embracing a renaissance of history, quality, and simplicity. I have yet to experience a night's stay here myself, but if there's anything on my wish list, it's a visit to Åmot. Could that affluent sugar uncle kindly make an appearance soon? Storfjord Hotel : I have pondered at length how to encapsulate this hotel in a few words, and I believe "Rustic Luxury" does it justice. Firstly, the entire hotel exudes the aroma of wood, one of my absolute favorite scents. The rooms and suites are tastefully adorned with muted colors, exquisite textiles, and untreated walls, lending Storfjord Hotel an exceptional allure. You can comfortably appear at breakfast in your Dale of Norway sweater and then spend the entire day outdoors in the breathtaking surroundings. Moreover, the restaurant is truly a masterpiece, arguably the finest in the wide vicinity. Trevarefabrikken : A now-iconic cultural institution situated in the heart of the Arctic region. The rough edges of the rugged fishing existence have been honed and transformed into an exceptional abode. The location alone is undeniably spectacular, but equally noteworthy is the vision the founders had in developing this old wood workshop. Here, you don't immerse yourself in ostentatious luxury; instead, you delve into the heritage of a region intimately connected to the weather, tides, and harsh climate. The sense of community among people in Northern Norway differs significantly from that in major cities like Oslo and Stavanger. This distinction becomes apparent the moment you set foot over the threshold, where you are embraced by a heritage entwined with the elements and a rugged environment. Amerikalinjen : Ask any random European, and undoubtedly, you'll be regaled with a tale of a family member who, a few generations back, escaped poverty and embarked on the journey to America. My great-uncle, for instance, left the bulb region in the Netherlands to start a farm somewhere in Missouri. Never heard from him again. Norway, too, did not escape this dance. In contrast to its current prosperity, Norway was a bit of Europe's underdog until the 1960s. This led to entire villages emptying as people boarded ships in pursuit of fortune and happiness. Amerikalinjen is named after this exodus. It is an extraordinarily beautiful hotel, exuding a grandeur rarely encountered in contemporary times. The cocktail bar is truly a work of art where bartenders took masters degrees in cocktail shaking, and the cellar frequently hosts jazz gigs. Hardanger Fjord Lodge : If I were to provide a description of what precisely constitutes a boutique hotel, I would point you directly to the Hardanger Lodge. The enchanting surroundings, the intimacy, and the tastefully rustic decor impart the sensation of stepping into a parallel world where time dances to a different rhythm. The level of attention devoted to details here evokes thoughts of Japanese dedication. It is a kind of rustic bubble in which you find yourself. If your sojourn in Norway commences here, thereafter, not much can really go amiss. Tuddal Høyfjellshotell : Every evening at 19:00, a meticulously crafted four-course dinner is promptly served, uniting all guests in the dining hall simultaneously. This ritual imparts a uniquely special ambiance, allowing one to pause and observe their fellow patrons, gaining a profound sense of the community within the hotel. The service is truly extraordinary, brimming with enthusiasm and unwavering dedication. You experience a genuine sense of being seen and valued. The culinary offerings center around locally sourced ingredients, evident in the flavors that come to life on the plate. Anticipate no avant-garde culinary experimentation; instead, relish beautifully executed, honest dishes that captivate the palate. It feels as though you have entered a cinematic scene, reminiscent, perhaps, of "The Grand Budapest Hotel," albeit set in the picturesque backdrop of Norway. Eilert Smith Hotel : While the exterior manifests functionality, stepping inside transports you immediately to the splendor of mid-century design. This appears to be a nod to the era when Stavanger, whether consciously or unconsciously, prospered. Regardless, in terms of hospitality, the Eilert Smith Hotel stands head and shoulders above the rest in Stavanger. This distinction doesn't solely arise from the elegance of the rooms and communal spaces. The staff also possesses a keen understanding of what guests anticipate when selecting such a hotel for their stay. Truly, everything is orchestrated to ensure your sojourn is as delightful as possible, all delivered with a kind of innate elegance (a skill I'd be eager to master). Dalen Hotel : What lingers today is a hotel adorned with an ambiance and aristocratic allure that stands unrivaled in Norway. A majestic entrance, substantial leather armchairs, and meticulously hand-printed wallpaper. The artistry displayed in all the woodwork alone is nothing short of breathtaking. Offering a variety of rooms and suites, each exudes the same regal charm. If the choice were mine, the Dalen Suite would be the epitome of romance, making it, without a doubt, the most romantic hotel in Telemark, if not the entirety of Norway. Even if you opt to lodge elsewhere, it's still worthwhile to park the car momentarily and indulge in a glance. Høyvarde Fyr Hotel : 'Fyr' can signify two things in Norwegian; 'boy' or 'lighthouse.' In this instance, it, of course, refers to the latter. Yes, you read it correctly; you can stay here. But only in July. It doesn't get much more exclusive than this. Keep in mind that this is no ordinary hotel where you casually stroll in and ring the reception bell. So do get in touch with them beforehand. Herangtunet : If you're in search of a distinctive retreat in the Valdres Nature and Culture Park, Herangtunet Boutique Hotel is the place to be. Personally, I haven't spent a night there (my in-laws have a cabin nearby), so I don't have a direct experience, but I took a stroll around and was utterly captivated. The interior exudes a robust grandeur with suites in various styles and themes. And just take a look at the location! I envision myself with a blanket draped over me, beside a campfire, holding a mug of hot chocolate. Absolutely stunning. Additionally, they offer an array of activities that immediately elucidate why I fell head over heels for Norway. Are you already in love? Or on the brink of it? Book a night or two. You'll leave as a different person. Energi Hotellet : The rooms at Energi Hotellet are, in fact, the antithesis of everything you've encountered so far. Minimalistic, pristine, and immaculate. Energi Hotellet is a gem of 1960s architecture, initially intended for the employees of the hydroelectric power plant. It still serves that purpose, but the hotel has undergone a subtle metamorphosis. Additionally, there's a strong emphasis on local ingredients, resulting in relatively simple yet overwhelmingly delicious dishes. For dog enthusiasts, your four-legged companion is welcome. The reason to book here extends beyond the hotel itself. It's the panoramic view that unfolds from all 14 rooms, showcasing the breathtaking surroundings! I wrote a seperate article about the place. Hotel 1904 : Ålesund is an elegant Art Nouveau town. Exactly that elegance can be found at Hotel 1904. I always find it a bit complicated to use superlatives like 'the best' or 'the most beautiful' when I'm not talking about my girlfriend. So, I tread carefully. This is one of the most beautiful and elegant hotels in all of Norway. Quite nuanced, wouldn't you agree? In earlier stories, I hinted that I used to work as an interior designer. I can confidently say that I have a kind of professional eye for interior spaces. What immediately catches my attention are the materials used; not just the curtains but also the skirting boards and the floor. Then comes composition and lighting. But, I won't bore you with that. If you value beautifully designed spaces even a little, book a few nights here. Especially during the darker months, this place is an oasis of perfectly crafted contemporary coziness. I walked in this summer out of curiosity, precisely because of what I just described. I was impressed, as well as by the staff, who welcomed me with understated warmth, despite the fact that I had a huge backpack on my back and was wearing flip-flops. Not exactly the typical attire for the clientele that usually populates the lobby here. All in all, I didn't stay overnight because it's not budget-friendly for a simple blogger like me. But the beds probably rank among the best you can sleep in in Norway.

  • Drink: if you don't see it, doesn't mean it's not there (pssst, it's a hidden bar in Oslo)

    Nestled in the heart of the capital lies a peculiar stretch of street. For some inexplicable reason, this patch of asphalt has become a sort of clubhouse for the heroin addicts that inhabit the city. Allow me the occasion to advocate a bit for them. Often, they appear disheveled, shabby-looking and burdened with plastic bags containing dubious contents. Yet, it is essential to recognize that most of them have merely fallen on hard times—whether due to whatever life has to throw at some of them or a party that spiraled out of control, leading to unfortunate consequences. My point is this: they are not criminals; they suffer from drug addiction and bear the weight of an image problem. The fact that they still roam the streets of Oslo speaks to the Norwegian state's commitment to caring for its sick citizens in various ways. Unlike many other cities, an addict here will not beg for money. The reason I bring this up is that as you stroll through the heart of Oslo on your way to my next recommendation, you will undoubtedly come across a few (heroin) addicts. I hope that you may look upon them with a slightly different perspective and, above all, not be afraid. I would be delighted to guide you to Prindsen Hage , a hidden outdoor bar in Oslo. In essence, it resembles a beer garden you might find in Berlin. The only difference is that you won't see any conspicuous signage advertising its presence, save for a very small sidewalk board that is sometimes there, and sometimes not. Moreover, the surrounding buildings entirely obscure your view, making it improbable to stumble upon Prindsen Hage at all. Yet, once you step inside, you'll understand the rationale behind this secrecy. It is never overcrowded but always exudes a convivial atmosphere. Particularly on a delightful summer's day, it becomes an idyllic haven. You can bask in the sun or find ample shade. While others flock to the waterfront promenades on scorching days, this place offers a much more serene sanctuary. The ambiance is tranquil, complemented by pleasant music, truly evoking the sensation of being in a garden. There are about four food stalls where you can order Indian cuisine or pizzas, along with several bars serving delicious local beers or whatever has your fancy (mine is beer). The fact that such an expansive inner courtyard is preserved in the midst of such a costly location, right in the heart of the city, is, in my view, a testament to an idealistic approach to urban planning. *Keep in mind that Prindsen Hage is closed during the cold months!

  • Destination: the cosiest pub and a high-end hotel; two faces of Stavanger

    For many travellers, Stavanger acts as a springboard for a jaunt to Preikestolen. Preikestolen (looking a bit like a springboard itself) is a mighty chunk of rock offering a breathtaking vista etc. Anyway, there's a jolly good chance you'll spend an evening or even a night in Stavanger. If you fancy a spot of coffee or a pint, mosey on over to my favourite little café, Hanekam. Amidst the already colourful street, Hanekam (cockscomb in English) stands out as the most vibrant establishment. The patrons consist of regulars, students, and young expats. The atmosphere is relaxed, and you'll strike up conversations in no time. Back in 2016, when I was a lonely immigrant, I sought shelter from a torrential downpour and stumbled upon Hanekam. A British bartender was manning the bar and struck up a chat on instinct. I immediately felt a tad less like a stranger. That's why I've developed a soft spot for Hanekam. On far other end of the spectre, but very much worth mentioning is a very, very special hotel. For those who have been following me for a while, it is by now well known that, as a former interior designer, I harbor a great love for design and architecture. When choosing a hotel, I often weigh this, whether intentionally or unintentionally. This was the case in Stavanger as well. One of the most popular architects of the early 20th century was responsible for the design of a gem of a building in the functionalist style (you know, Bauhaus). For some reason, this style resonates with me immensely. To the untrained eye, it may appear as an ordinary modern apartment building. However, when compared to what was common in the early 20th century in terms of construction, you can see how groundbreaking it was. The global economic crisis forced architects to think radically differently about form, function, and material. Hmm, my enthusiasm is getting the better of me again. I was talking about a hotel. It is now clear that I am attempting to describe the most elegant hotel in Stavanger: Eilert Smith Hotel. While the exterior is a manifestation of functionalism, on the inside, you immediately find yourself in the grandeur of mid-century design. This seems to be a reference to the period when Stavanger became prosperous, consciously or unconsciously. Anyway, in terms of hospitality, Eilert Smith Hotel stands head and shoulders above when it comes to Stavanger. And this is not only because of the elegance of the rooms and common areas. The staff also understands very well what guests expect when choosing such a hotel for their stay. Truly, everything is done to make your stay as pleasant as possible, and all with a kind of natural elegance (which I wish I mastered). It might be strange for a blogger, but I am a bit short of words to sum up what makes the level of service so special in a few sentences. Perhaps I can best use a scene from 'The Bear' (SE02, EP07) to illustrate it. It feels a bit like the staff passing notes to each other all day with little details about the guests, making everything and everyone seem to be excellently synchronized. I don't know how they do it. But they do it excellently. The occasion obliges me to also mention Re-naa . Located within the Eilert Smith hotel, this is the only 2-Michelin star restaurant in Norway. Despite what my language may imply (I know, it sometimes seems a bit pretentious), I'm not a fancy guy. Let alone having a fancy bank account. So, unfortunately, I can't tell you about what it's like to dine at Re-naa. Perhaps in another life or after a favorable lottery result. But with those two stars, I reckon you're in good hands. Kind regards, Captain Obvious. And how do you find your way to this sometimes windswept corner of the world? It might surprise you, or perhaps not, but due to the fact that Stavanger is a true oil capital, there are direct flights to nearly every major airport in Europe. So, you don't have to hesitate for a romantic weekend getaway. From Stavanger, you can catch direct flights to: Amsterdam, Copenhagen, Paris, Barcelona, Manchester, Newcastle, Esbjerg, Stockholm, London, Krakow, Kaunas, Gdansk, Frankfurt, and Aberdeen.

  • Destination: Cruise ships; an environmental disaster. Here's a better way to explore Norway

    As the title kind of reveals; I'm not much of a fan of cruise ships. Let me elaborate a bit. Massive quantities of wastewater, encompassing sewage, greywater, and bilge water, pose significant threats to marine life if inadequately treated or illegally dumped. Then there's waste. Cruise ships generate colossal volumes of waste, including plastic and surplus food from their lavish buffets, thereby exacerbating oceanic pollution and jeopardising marine ecosystems. In addition to waste, cruise ships emit a whole lot of harmful substances such as sulfur oxides, nitrogen oxides and carbon dioxide into the atmosphere. To be frank; Europe's cruise ships together emit just as much greenhouse gasses as a billion passenger cars according to this scientific report . Wait, what? Not to mention the chemical waste being blended with bunkerfuel and used in most sea-going vessels. Since many visitors to Norway come specifically to admire its extraordinary and rare flora and fauna, it is extra disturbing to think that marine life faces a massive disturbance from underwater noise generated by ship engines and sonar equipment, which disrupts communication, navigation, and feeding patterns of cetaceans such as whales and dolphins. And, a bit less of an obvious problem; the ballast water exchanged by cruise ships can introduce invasive species to new habitats, thereby disturbing indigenous ecosystems. Despite the existence of international regulations aimed at addressing these issues, enforcement often proves inconsistent. Many cruise ships operate under flags of convenience (e.g., Nassau, Liberia, Panama, Marshall Islands), jurisdictions known for lenient environmental and labor standards, enabling cruise companies to reduce costs and evade stringent regulations. The crew below deck often labour under severe conditions, all so that passengers can indulge themselves abundantly. I think you've got the nature of my sentiment; I find it rather immoral to book a cruise. But fear not! Instead, I suggest a more environmentally friendly way to explore Norway. An epic road trip by electric car For the most breathtaking panoramas far more spectaculair and diverse compared to those you get from your deckchair, the Norwegian Scenic Roads are a must. When planning your itinerary in Norway, it is advisable to follow these routes. Their unique character encompasses rugged coastlines, enchanting deep fjords, and picturesque forests alongside lower-lying areas. Along these routes, you'll find numerous carefully marked stops, often designed by Norwegian architects, offering essential amenities such as restrooms and seating. Each stop is worth a pause, providing either a splendid view or a historical landmark. My top three routes are Varanger, Rondane, and Aurlandsfjellet, though choosing a favorite is nearly impossible. Norway boasts an incredibly efficient charging network. Almost every petrol station along the highways has multiple charging points. Additionally, every town with over 10,000 inhabitants has several charging stations. If you filter your search on Tripadvisor to show only hotels with EV chargers, you'll find that availability is excellent. Many hotels offer charging facilities in their car parks, allowing you to start the next leg of your road trip with a fully charged electric vehicle after breakfast. Another significant reason to rent an electric vehicle is the cost of fuel. Currently, petrol costs around 24 NOK per litre (approximately €2 or $2.2). In comparison, petrol in the US costs about $0.90 per litre. Norway has the highest petrol prices in the world, despite being a major oil exporter. The government imposes high taxes on petrol to discourage the use of fossil fuel vehicles, and it has worked. Four out of five new cars sold are electric, making it cheaper to rent an electric vehicle than a petrol car. Stay at independent and small-scale hotels Many hotels and destinations in Norway strive to reduce their ecological footprint or even make a positive contribution. The Sustainable Destination label, the only national certification scheme for sustainability in the Nordic region, recognizes destinations committed to improving the environment, local communities, cultural heritage, and the economy. These hotels standout as an example for their sustainable efforts: Stokkøya Strandhotell: This beach hotel uses almost exclusively local products and encourages mindful consumption of electricity and water. 292 Aurland: This boutique hotel emphasizes sustainability, with self-produced ingredients and a renovation carried out with the environment in mind. Juvet Landscape Hotel: Known from films such as Ex Machina, this hotel minimizes its impact on the surroundings by using local materials and maintaining low energy consumption. Energihotellet: This hotel repurposes existing structures and focuses on minimizing waste, with meals prepared from local products. Trevarefabrikken: This incredibly charming hotel in Lofoten does an amazing job in vitalizing the local community, making excellent use of what was already there and makes excellent use of local resources. Hotel Svart: Set to open in 2024, this spectacular hotel will be energy-positive, CO2-neutral, and off-grid, aiming for completely waste-free dining. Eat and drink locally sourced products A significant source of CO2 emissions is the global transport of goods such as bananas from Costa Rica, dates from Tunisia, and orange juice from Brazil. Therefore, I strongly advocate for buying locally produced goods and food. Hanen , an umbrella organization for food-producing farmers and unique restaurants and hotels, is fantastic for this. They have a handy map highlighting excellent local products, from apple cider and sausages to superb bread. The Hanen logo almost always signifies a worthwhile stop. I recommend downloading the Hanen app before your trip. Many farms also offer accommodation, making it a treasure trove few tourists are aware of. The Hanen logo is also often used by restaurants and hotels that make extra efforts to use locally produced food in their kitchens, making them highly recommended.

  • Eat: about time to start harvesting; what a forest in Norway has to offer

    Here in Norway, the seasons are brief yet intense. Except for winter. That one, is long and intense. Or long, thus intense. But now, let's turn our attention to summer. It's a burst of a season, where everything flourishes intensely for a short while. And as a result of all this blooming, the topic at hand emerges: harvesting all the fruits a forest in Norway has to offer. As I write, it's August, just after my summer vacation. Two drawers of our freezer are brimming with frozen fruits. To provide some context, that's around 6 kilograms in total. This fruity haul consists of blueberries, raspberries, wild strawberries, and cloudberries. We gathered all this fruit over the course of a few days. Berries Let's begin with the most elusive: the cloudberry . Well, actually, I'm starting my sentence wrongly. They are quite common, but only under specific conditions. You often find them above a certain altitude, in areas with plenty of marshes or 'myra' as it's called in Norwegian. You can pick them between July and September. You'll know they're ripe when the fruit practically detaches itself from the stem, the leaves around it have loosened, and the cloudberry appears pink, orange, or light yellow. I've discovered a number of fantastic spots where they grow in abundance. They're marked on my Google Maps, but I'll keep those locations a secret. Cloudberry is truly something else. They are used extensively in desserts around Christmas, making them incredibly sought-after and quite pricey. Don't be surprised if you have to pay 250 NOK (approximately 26 dollars) for half a kilo. Blueberries also abound. Did you know they fall into the superfood category? They're possibly the healthiest fruits you can eat, beneficial for just about everything. And you can find them nearly everywhere. A few weeks back, I managed to pick around 2 kilograms in just 1.5 hours. I eat them as they are, blend them into my smoothies, or turn them into jam. Now, here's the best tip of this whole piece of writing: get one of those berry pickers for picking blueberries . It makes picking them super efficient, and you'll gather huge quantities in no time. It becomes addictive, believe me. Considering how easily you can harvest one of the healthiest foods out there makes it even more fantastic. Blueberries are ready to be picked between July and September. So, if you're going on a road trip, take one of those pickers along. It's incredibly satisfying and it saves you a ton of money otherwise spent at supermarkets. Then we have raspberries. They might be a bit more thinly scattered, but under the right conditions, you can still find an incredible amount of them. The woods around my home are teeming with them. Especially on either side of the numerous gravel roads, they grow abundantly. I consider them to be some of the most delicious fruit around, and they remind me of my childhood in the Netherlands, when I lived in the countryside. Wild strawberries are also quite common but are somewhat sparser. They're small but incredibly flavorful. They tend to thrive in slightly shadier spots. Mushrooms Goodness, gracious, what an abundance. The amount of edible mushrooms in Norwegian forests is truly impressive. However, as you may be aware, foraging for mushrooms is a specialised skill that requires diligent research and careful consideration. Consuming certain mushrooms can lead to gastrointestinal distress or, in more severe cases, affect vital bodily functions. It is therefore imperative to thoroughly educate yourself beforehand and verify your finds with soppkontroll (mushroom-check), a team of specialists who can ascertain the edibility of your discoveries. Recently, I had the pleasure of trying self-picked porcini carpaccio for the first time: exquisitely thin slices with a touch of olive oil, a sprinkling of salt, and a dash of pepper. It was simply divine. Porcini mushrooms are somewhat rarer, but chanterelles and related varieties are exceedingly common, delightfully flavourful, and highly nutritious. Have a great time harvesting! And send me pictures of your catch on Instagram . I'd love to see it.

  • Gear: the best sleeping bag for all seasons; Norrøna Falketind

    Men are naturally a tad overconfident. The internet can debate whether that's due to nature or nurture. But it's a given. We men are disproportionately involved in all sorts of accidents, ludicrous street quarrals, and grand yet hopelessly futile attempts at wooing. I'm no exception to this, at least when it comes to accidents and romantic endeavors. And now, you might wonder, what does this have to do with a travel blog about Norway? Well, that's the segue I'm about to make. When I had just emigrated, I felt it was high time to treat myself to a new lightweight tent. After all, that's why I had come to Norway: for the great outdoors. I'll spare you the entire purchasing process; it unfolded quite spontaneously. It happened to be my birthday, and how pitiful it may sound, I had no one to celebrate it with. So I decided I deserved to give myself a birthday present. But here's the twist. c Let's start with my sleeping bag. Comfortable down to -5 degrees Celsius, while the temperature was plummeting to at least 10 degrees below freezing. Furthermore, I had brought along a rather basic sleeping mat that provided minimal insulation from the frozen ground. This brings me back to my earlier point; men are undeniably overconfident. So, if you're a woman reading this, don't fret. You're likely well-prepared for your journey through the Norwegian wilderness. If you're a man or an over confident non-binary, hold the line, as I'm about to impart some excellent advice. And that advice goes as follows: INVEST IN A GOOD SLEEPING BAG. By "good," I mean a sleeping bag that suits your body size, matches the route you intend to take, and fits into your backpack. The reason it's crucial for the sleeping bag to fit your body size is that the volume of air you need to warm with your own body heat shouldn't be excessive. This prevents the space between your body and the inner lining of the sleeping bag from cooling down. If the sleeping bag is too snug, there won't be enough room between you and the inner lining, and the warm air won't keep you insulated. Now, regarding the type of journey you're embarking upon. As I write this, it's around 20 degrees Celsius here in Oslo. However, just last week in Valdres, it was 8 degrees, raining, and there were warnings of snow above 1000 meters. Imagine you're planning a roughly two-week journey through Norway; you should be prepared for all four seasons to rain down on you. It might not be that extreme, but it's better to be prepared. So, bring along a sleeping bag that would keep you warm during autumn or winter. To be precise, one that remains comfortable at -10 degrees. Personally, I use the -10°C Falketind sleeping bag from Norrøna (or Norrona for those without an 'ø' on their keyboards) Its insulation is truly unparalleled, and I've never found myself sweating in it, unlike other sleeping bags I've used. I dare say this is one of the finest brands out there. Plus, the fact that it's Norwegian adds a touch of extra appeal for me. Another factor that influenced my choice is the craftsmanship and their commitment to sustainable materials and practices . When they design something, durability takes precedence over profit margins. Well, by now, you probably grasp the gist. I'm a fan. So this piece of text might not be entirely objective. But then again, what piece of writing is? It is the best sleeping bag I've ever had!

  • Destination: Kruttverket; how a gunpowder storage facility became Oslo's coolest cultural hub

    The first question you need to ask yourself is how far away from the other tourists you want to venture. The second question might be how on earth you'll get there. The answer to both questions is quite clear I guess, considering the fact you're reading this blog post on 'Ha det Mamma' in the first place. Kruttverket saw the light (again) a few years back. As the name suggests for those who speak a Germanic language, it's an old gunpowder factory from a time when the surrounding residential area didn't exist yet, for goods sake because it did blow up at some point. And now, after a lot of energy, renovations, and subsidies, it has become a new cultural hot-spot that exceeds every expectation. And I'm not exaggerating. There's a café serving delightful coffee and cocktails, jazz is played on Sundays, there are multiple saunas run by Oslo Badstue Forening , an exhibition space where I once saw 15 different photos of a naked man in a forest, and occasionally there are markets where you can buy original art from local artists. Moreover, in addition to all this, the location is exceptionally picturesque. Situated right next to a bubbling river, you almost feel transported to a sort of Japanese onsen, especially with all the sauna-goers populating the charmingly crafted sauna installation with their steaming bodies. Certainly, as autumn sets in, the Norwegian idyll is complete. Aside from the fact that Kruttverket may well be the most intriguing cultural hub within the municipal borders of Oslo, it might also be the place with the highest concentration of artists and craftsmen. Kroloftet is a collective of artists and craftsmen situated right next to Kruttverket. Here, you'll find workshops for ceramics, woodworking, and an abundance of studios and work-spaces. Definitely worth taking a peek inside. You won't want to leave any time soon when you finally made it there. This place sprinkles a cloud of glitter over a somewhat colorless part of the city. It's one of those places that often makes me wonder, "How on earth is this even possible?"

  • Destination: a Norwegian getaway; my top-5

    Since the internet loves lists, I won't refrain from serving you one as well. But first, let me briefly define how I prefer to define a 'getaway.' For me, a getaway is a stay in a unique location, far away from noise, hassle, and large crowds. Preferably in nature and in stark contrast to the environment I encounter on a day-to-day basis. In my case, that's not too difficult. I spend 8-9 hours behind two large screens in a dull office in Oslo everyday. What you probably also understand is that this list is far from complete, as the number of breathtaking cabins and huts is simply too large. Therefore, I've compiled a list of my 5 favourite Norwegian getaways in different areas, at different price points, and with varying levels of luxury. May they inspire you! Let's set off, in no particular order. Fjord Panorama As the name suggests, you have a beautiful view of green (depending on the season) mountain ridges, water features, and the sky. The cabin itself is an architectural masterpiece and is equipped with all conveniences and luxuries. There's a private hot tub and a projector screen so you can watch your favorite Norwegian series from your bed on a big screen. A pantry kitchen, a king-size bed, and a cozy balcony are also part of the facilities. This is where you go for a romantic weekend. And imagine keeping it as a surprise. That scores you a lot of points. From Oslo, you can fly to Sogndal airport in just an hour. From there, it's only a 15-minute drive to Fjord Panorama. Wonderinn Delta If anything defines a getaway, it's Wonderinn. I'm a bit tired of the influencer culture with overly attractive girls promoting everything, because locations like this don't need that at all. The location itself is spectacular enough. You stay in a cube made of mirrored walls. From the outside, no one sees you, and you have a great view of wide rivers and rolling fields. Furthermore, all the ingredients for a great experience are present: a hot tub, a fire pit, a decent kitchen, and of course, a shower and toilet. Moreover, Wonderinn Delta is only 40 minutes from Oslo (and Oslo airport). Kråen Gård The tiny homes hype took off just after the financial crisis a decade ago. They are now everywhere, including in Norway. Kråen Gård rents one with a fantastic sea view. Kråen Gård is a small farm specializing in the sale of locally produced food. Here, you experience a kind of countryside romanticism that is so uniquely Norwegian. I would like to recommend it to everyone with only a remote sense for adventure. You feel as if you’ve come to the end of the world, one of the most beautiful and calm ‘ends’ that is. Pan Treetop In the midst of one of the most extensive forest areas in Norway are the Pan Treetop Cabins. The award-winning designs have almost become iconic (and you have to be early if you want to spend a few nights here). You camp about 6 meters above the ground and have a magical view of the vast landscape. There's a good chance you'll see a moose walking by from a comfortable height. In fact, these forests can be considered wilderness. Bears live there . Not many, but they do. The Pan Treetop cabins are about a two-hour drive from Oslo airport. Perfect for a long weekend away. Holmen Lofoten This is a location beyond compare. You may have heard of Lofoten. It is a world-famous island group in the far north of Norway. The rocks rise here as steep points from the ocean. Without exaggeration, wherever you look, the view is spectacular, whatever the season. Holmen Lofoten is actually a hotel, but due to its spectacular location and small scale, it has still earned a spot on my list of getaways. Another reason to settle here for a weekend is the excellent food they serve. Ingredients are almost without exception local and of incredible quality. From Oslo, you can fly to Leksnes airport in just under 3 hours. From there, it's a little over an hour's drive to Holmen.

  • Destination: 5 Norwegian weekend getaways within 2 hours from Amsterdam Schiphol airport

    After a demanding 50-hour workweek, my paramount aspiration invariably becomes an escape – a break from computer screens and the confines of the cubicle. And not in the last place, away from a city that is 'on' 24/7. The beckoning allure of nature, coupled with indulgence in delectable cuisine, represents for me an excellent approach to relaxation. The essence lies not solely in distancing oneself from the demands of the workplace but, equally importantly, in disengaging from the pervasive glow of smartphone screens, finding peace in a completely different setting. In light of this, allow me to present to you five extraordinary Norwegian weekend getaways, effortlessly accessible within 2 hours of flying from Amsterdam Schiphol Airport, where one's pulse instinctively slows. Presented in no particular order: Kristiansand , though modest in size, unfolds as a haven of cultural richness and unparalleled coziness. Its compactness renders it ideal for a short trip from Amsterdam. Opting for accommodation at Boen Gård , a mere 10-minute drive from the international airport, guarantees a rather extraordinary experience. Boen Gård, with its storied history, houses not only a remarkable Michelin-starred restaurant but also provides opulent lodgings. The enchantment of Boen Gård is hard to describe – maybe that's why I celebrate a pre-Christmas dinner with a group of friends there every year. They just offer superlative service. And Kristiansand itself is really rather charming with it's cute city center and gorgeous coastline. I wrote about Kristiansand before . Årnes , a name unfamiliar and not essential to remember. Wonderinn , however, should be. Within the Årnes municipality, a mere 25-minute drive from Oslo Airport, the name WonderInn proves an understatement. A realm of enchantment rather than mere wonder, reserving one of its magical minihouses transports guests to an entirely different realm. Cabins adorned with mirrored glass, boasting private bubblebaths by the river, epitomize the very essence of an idyllic escape. A gratuitous sauna, a small herd of alpacas, and a location steeped in magic render the experience almost incredulous, yet indisputably authentic. All year 'round I would say making this one of the best weekend trips from Amsterdam...if one decides to go venture north! In Stavanger , a one-stop-shop for a luxurious weekend getaway unfolds, a mere 20-minute drive from Stavanger Airport. The Eilert Smith Hotel , home to Norway's sole 2-Michelin-star restaurant, Ree-na, stands as an institution in its own right. This boutique hotel epitomizes elegance, boasting sophistication that transcends conventional boundaries. Stavanger, a very charming town along Norway's western coastline, strikes the perfect balance between being sufficiently expansive to captivate for a weekend yet sufficiently intimate to evoke a sense of cosiness. Curious about Stavanger? I wrote about the town previously. Ålesund , a city of imaginative splendor, captivates not only through its Instagram-worthy views in all directions but also by virtue of an exceptionally high concentration of outstanding restaurants and hotels, rendering it a destination of considerable repute. The airport, a mere 20-minute drive away, sets the stage for an experience at Hotel Brosundet that transcends the ordinary. Beyond the tasteful decor, peerless harbourside location, indulgent spa, and monumental multi-storey fireplace, it is the intimate live concerts in the lobby and the dedicated staff that etch indelible memories. The sheer abundance of remarkable restaurants in Ålesund makes choosing a daunting task, but perhaps a visit to Apotekergata. nr 5 would have my preference. Trondheim is the bustling metropolis of Trøndelag AND Norway's culinary capital! Trondheim is the Home of Nordic Flavours and has reached a gastronomic zenith – a veritable Mecca for food enthusiasts awaits. Savour the delights of charming cafés and contemporary gourmet establishments, all basking in the illustrious glow of numerous Michelin stars. The finest local ingredients create world-class culinary magic in this city, honoured as the European Region of Gastronomy 2022. A few nights at the Britannia Hotel will leave a mark! While a weekend in Norway undeniably is far to short, consider it a tantalizing preview for an extended holiday. A teaser of sorts. Shaking hands with the country for the first time. For exactly that I ardently hope that my recommendations have stirred a sense of inspiration within you. All destinations as mentioned above are within 2 hours of flying from Amsterdam Schiphol Airport. It is advisable to reserve a car in advance. You're only here for the weekend, so time is precious. Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to reserve an electric car . It keeps you going for a weekend.

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